t-joint using stick - need advice on rod manipulation

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Not sure if it's called a t-joint - I'm trying to weld some 6mm thick plates to some scaffolding pipes to be used for supporting some grapevines. Haven't got the camera now, but found this old thread which shows something similar to what is happening :http://weldingweb.com/archive/index.php/t-18893.htmlphoto : http://jeremyferg.com/weld/t6013-1.jpgThe referenced thread does not answer my questions, maybe someonecould give some more pointers.I'm using 6013 3mm rod, 80 A (it indicates 90A as max current on the pack).I can get a decent weld similar to the small section on the right on thereferenced photo, but quite often the results are similar to the photo.I usually angle the rod at 45 to horizontal and tip of rod is slightly angledback toward the direction of start of welding. I start the weld buildingup the bead and then move forward with slight circular motions. Not sure whether it is sometimes the wind or maybe movement whichchanges rod angle slightly but then everything goes haywire.Few questions:What are the most important things to keep in mind regarding handling the rod ?How does one manipulate the rod when the surface (horizontal and/or vertical)has some holes/imperfections in it ? I "learned"/read how to fill a hole from the web -few circles and remove rod but when welding and reaching a hole after whichwelding needs to be continued, I usually end up making a hole in another place - guessI'm not reading the puddle or am not sure exactly how to angle/move the rod.What needs to be done regarding the "bad" weld in the referenced photo - canyou just clean it up and weld up the holes  ?
Reply:Couple of things. Your moving too fast. Your not getting metal deposited on the upper plate. There's one spot in that bead that you got metal on both plates. The speed you used there is the speed you need to use all the way across the weld joint. Hold your rod 45degrees to the joint then lower your hand a bit more to direct the end of your rod slightly more on to the upper plate. Watch your puddle and ensure it washes nicely onto both plates. You may have to manipulate your rod up and down to ensure the puddle washed onto both plates.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:That recommendation of 90amps max for a 3mm 6013 is BS!!!!130-140 amps min....Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:First regarding the rod/amperage - sorry, my mistake - 2.5mm rod ,on two packets from different manufacturers it says 50A - 90A & 65A - 95A,OK, I will test a few higher settings of amperage.About manipulation of the rod - will follow the suggestions, but how is the rod angledin relation to motion and how do you manipulate the rod when you come to a hole/convex shape ?What does one do with the weld as on the referenced photo -  do you clean it up with a wire brush,fill the holes first and weld over the entire area or  (if you weld over everythingwithout filling the holes, I'd like to know what magic is used when going across the holesas I just keep making more holes even if I slow down there and do a circle) ?weld over it, grind it down or ?
Reply:I'd break it over, grind it all down, and start over. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:for 7018's 130-140, for 6013's, 120 is good i find.
Reply:Originally Posted by ttoksfor 7018's 130-140, for 6013's, 120 is good i find.
Reply:Originally Posted by vjekoFirst regarding the rod/amperage - sorry, my mistake - 2.5mm rod ,on two packets from different manufacturers it says 50A - 90A & 65A - 95A,OK, I will test a few higher settings of amperage.About manipulation of the rod - will follow the suggestions, but how is the rod angledin relation to motion and how do you manipulate the rod when you come to a hole/convex shape ?What does one do with the weld as on the referenced photo -  do you clean it up with a wire brush,fill the holes first and weld over the entire area or  (if you weld over everythingwithout filling the holes, I'd like to know what magic is used when going across the holesas I just keep making more holes even if I slow down there and do a circle) ?weld over it, grind it down or ?
Reply:I'm assuming the "holes" your referring to are the spots where there is no weld? You can weld over them only if you get all the slag from the previous pass removed. You need to weld hot on the next pass. One thing I don't like about 6013 rod is the thick heavy slag the rod produces. Your heat (amps) is good for 3/32 rod.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:The basics: http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ps-techniques/"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi