Sharpen band saw blade?

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Speaking of band saws in my other thread, I went to use mine tonight and it was cutting really really rough. Opened her up and found a few teeth messed up. This blade has barely been used. Any way to sharpen it or should I just get another?This is the blade I boughthttp://www.ebay.com/itm/160529554950#ht_945wt_1110Unless someone can recommend another that will work well on metals (mild, aluminum and some SS)Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:What kind of saw do you run it on. The length makes me think maybe a little tip over saw.  If so that blade is way to narrow for the saw. Any wood blade run at wood working speed will cut aluminum.  SS is another matter. somehow you broke the teeth in the other blade. Better figure out what happened before you ruin anouther one. I buy Super Cut blades here in Oregon.  they will cut most tough metals like SS with coolent for a long time, like hours of cutting.  Mac
Reply:If you're missing teeth, you're probably cutting material that's too thin.  The blade listed in your link is suitable for 1/4" and thicker material.  Thinner material requires something with a higher tooth count.Here's a table that should help . . .http://www.mcmaster.com/#band-saw-blades/=f95iveDynasty 300DXSmith He/Ar gas mixerMM350PHobart Handler 120Smith LW7, MW5, AW1A
Reply:Under normal operation a good blade should last for hundreds or even thousands of cuts. Generally when the teeth are trashed you need to replace the blade. I have, in a pinch, snapped off bent teeth to get the job done.  Teeth eventually fatigue and bend or snap off after a LOT of cuts. If your not getting good life... something is wrong.What speed is your band saw (feet per minute)? What material are were you cutting last? Dry or flood coolant? What shape, round, tube, solid, etc?.Like Tool Maker said... I suspect your blade is too narrow to get any real life. These narrow blades fatigue very quickly.Starrett makes good blades, but not every blade is well suited for every job. I generally switch between 3 or 4 different blades depending on the material and shape being cut. Have you looked at the powercalc software to help you select the correct blade for the job?http://www.starrett.com/saws/saws-ha...ades/powercalc
Reply:Even my portable band saw uses half an inch wide blades.  Generally you want three teeth to be in the cut mimimum.  For stainless steel or stuff with chrome in them lots of timy teeth and go slow is what I have gathered is the way.  Perhaps you could piece together another blade from good portions, many industrial band saws have a resistance welder kind of built in and instructions on annealing after welding.
Reply:Forhire, here's what the link he provided says as far as saw speed.Blade speed of 2460 fpm easily cuts hard woods and soft woods
Reply:My experience is no they aren't worth sharpening, you will fiddle with it then it will break.Missing teeth is an indication of a problem though. Some place to look:1. is your clamp sturdy and holding your stock rigid?2. Not getting enough teeth into the initial start of your cut, on a bandsaw you want the widest part of your stock up for the start of the cut, getting one or two teeth into the start of a cut will knock teeth out. Before starting your saw lower your blade and count how many teeth the blade is going to initially enage with, 4 is my min, 5 or 6 is better. Don't do vertical cuts on plate stock ( ex: through through the 1/4 on plate stock ), yes it can be done and if your very careful on starting the cut, super slow and start it just right it can be done, but it trashes blades., just the smallest error and it takes out a couple of teeth.Bandsaw blades should last a long time, when your changing a blade look at the old one if the teeth are uniformly worn down your doing it right.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWForhire, here's what the link he provided says as far as saw speed.Blade speed of 2460 fpm easily cuts hard woods and soft woods
Reply:As others have said, that's a wood-cutting saw.  Hard wood, soft wood and aluminum are just about all you'll be able to cut with it.  (Stainless, especially, is too much.)You can also buy a slower, metal-cutting band saw, or (like I did) you can buy a portaband, and also get a base so that 1) you've got a portable saw for stuff you can't put on a table, 2) you're not eating up floorspace when you're not using it, and 3) you have the option of cutting steel on a table when you need it.  Mine clamps into my vise.The company that makes the table piece has since improved on it.  It now has a smaller base piece which slides in to the rest of the table -- so you don't have to do anything in changing between hand-held and table saw styles of cutting.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Actually, you can cut some serious steel with a wood cutting bandsaw (just forget about stainless).It just requires a bit of an odd technique (but it really does work).You need a dull blade (or a blade welded with the teeth upside down).  Using a heavy feed pressure, nothing will happen until you start to burn the steel where it meets the blade.  Eventually when it's starting to glow at the point of contact, if you push hard enough (much more than you would expect when cutting something in the "conventional" sense), it will start to cut through.  At that point, you can continue the cut about as fast as a torch can cut the steel.  The friction with the blade heats the steel, but the length and movement of the blade, prevent the blade from reaching that same temperature, so just the steel is cut.
Reply:I was looking at your blade again, for metal you should use a 18 tooth or for really hard stuff use a 24 tooth.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireHere's a handy chart you can print out that can help. Generally the harder the metal... the slower the band speed.http://www.freetechnicalcharts.com/m...peed_Chart.pdf
Reply:To get back to the original question...NO you can not sharpen a band saw blade.That's insane.End of statement....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I have sharpened band saw blades by hand,  But for woodworking.  A carefully hand sharpened band saw blade for wood will out cut a brand new blade. A new blade is cut with a rolling punch somewhat like a pinking shears. Then they are set in a rolling set. so all the teeth are shaped alike except for set. Steel cutting blades are normally worn out completely by the time I'm done with them.   Mac