Building portable welder

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So seeing how some of these alternator welders work, I have been asked by a few of the local guys who weld and are tired of lugging around big welders to weld thin metal 1/4" or thinner. They had seen the Zena portable welder i put together, and of course i like to tinker around and came up with this idea ? I would like your input on it or any suggestions.Here is the one I built, I can pick it up and load it easily in the back of my truck and move it around the jobs easily.Now here is something i have put together on paper, and have thought about building it but I would like to see what you guys think about it and why it wouldnt work or what would make it better.
Reply:the parts would consist of ***The 200 amp alternator****The diode pack I found on ebay , would run the stator wires out to the diode block and the leads would hook up to the other side of the diode block**** The relay would control the power on off from the push button on the stinger for the feild voltage to the alternator through the dimmer switch for the amount of volts that is fed to the feild.
Reply:not real good with the electronic but If I am correct you will have a decent DC amp out put could probably run 3/32 or maybe 1/8 rod, is that right?   How many HP motor do you think it will take to push the 200 amp alternator.     How does the unit you already built perform and how about a drawing on that one?Last edited by kolot; 05-17-2012 at 10:52 PM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:I currently use 1/8" rod of 6011 , 6013 and 7018 with the above zena welder. The Zena unit I put together was from a kit that was about 500 for the alternator and leads and its control box, but after doing some tests its controlling the voltage to the feild from what i am able to determine. They added a second button to the stinger that feeds full voltage from the battery to the feild of the alternator. so you can easily start an arc, But I have had very little trouble starting an arc except when the stick is cold. If its hot it start right up and goes very little sticking.i have access to multiple riding mower motors ranging from 15 to 18 hp. All have electric start and charging coils to charge the battery on the welder.My whole reason for wanting to build another unit was a freind of mine builds gates and metal pipe fences and was really liking mine, I let him use it for the day and he came back and said what would it take to get something like that, and i told him about the zena kit, and he said that im sure you already know how its done so build me one. and the above drawing is what i came up with.Last edited by shoquest2007; 05-17-2012 at 11:09 PM.
Reply:As a quick estimate calculation, to burn 1/8 rod at around 130amps you'll need about 8hp min.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:I chose the 300 amp diodes cause i thought for an extra 10 dollars in cost for those it wouldnt be pushing them as hard as if I had chose 200 amp ones, plus it would also allow for growth if an alternator of a higher amperage was put on it
Reply:how much weight saving do you think. Not to go negative on you but a small Lincoln welder, older of course say the Weldnpower AC130 or AC/DC 150 are comparble welders if not better , go about 425 lbs. and usually sell running under 500 used.  With buying the Zena and realated parts and the build labor wondering if it is worth it.  Now the cool factor on the other hand , Priceless! If you build your new designe, let us know how it works out."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:I currently have a boat ancor miller roughneck, way too heavy to load by myself and move around the job. I havent weighed the zena unit yet, but i bet its under 200 lbs. I live out in the country and there are tons of riding mowers i can pick up for 50 bucks or less, alternators are 150 to 250 new, diodes are 65 bucks on ebay, garden tractor battery 30 bucks. Leads I have plenty of. I will buy a new stinger with a different handle the one i found i like that would give me room for the button is 30 bucksSo in all I have would be 250+65+30+30=375 If i didnt already have the leads id say another 100 bucks for that stuff. While your right the miller might be a much better welder but for what we weld is mostly dcen. I have three other welders in the shop for indoor stuff, but i like the portability of the zena unit i put together. I already have a 140 amp alternator and a 15hp motor running , I might get the diodes and see how that works. I have an alternator shop who said they would sell me a 200 amp unit with no regulator and diodes for 175. ready to do what i want with it. Might even put the stator wires on an insulated screw terminal sticking out the back of the alternator, I would just feel pitty for the fool who touched one while running.also costs of repairing it would be next to nothing as parts are all over for the motors, usually in stock, alternator shops are plentiful in DFW area, the diodes might be the only hard thing for me to get quickly as the rest of it can be bought at a place called tanner electronics locally. So I would say the diodes would be the only part that would hold it up from being able to be repaired quicklyLast edited by shoquest2007; 05-17-2012 at 11:43 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverAs a quick estimate calculation, to burn 1/8 rod at around 130amps you'll need about 8hp min.
Reply:jbmprods, when Big blue airpaks start falling from the sky, let me know!shoquest2007, I wonder if you'll need/want an inductor after your rectifier.  The idea being it will smooth out the current, and provide a voltage kick whenever the arc wants to quit.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:When i build the unit i will play with the idea of a inductor, but the zena unit doesnt have one
Reply:Originally Posted by shoquest2007I currently have a boat ancor miller roughneck, way too heavy to load by myself and move around the job. I havent weighed the zena unit yet, but i bet its under 200 lbs. I live out in the country and there are tons of riding mowers i can pick up for 50 bucks or less, alternators are 150 to 250 new, diodes are 65 bucks on ebay, garden tractor battery 30 bucks. Leads I have plenty of. I will buy a new stinger with a different handle the one i found i like that would give me room for the button is 30 bucksSo in all I have would be 250+65+30+30=375 If i didnt already have the leads id say another 100 bucks for that stuff. While your right the miller might be a much better welder but for what we weld is mostly dcen. I have three other welders in the shop for indoor stuff, but i like the portability of the zena unit i put together. I already have a 140 amp alternator and a 15hp motor running , I might get the diodes and see how that works. I have an alternator shop who said they would sell me a 200 amp unit with no regulator and diodes for 175. ready to do what i want with it. Might even put the stator wires on an insulated screw terminal sticking out the back of the alternator, I would just feel pitty for the fool who touched one while running.also costs of repairing it would be next to nothing as parts are all over for the motors, usually in stock, alternator shops are plentiful in DFW area, the diodes might be the only hard thing for me to get quickly as the rest of it can be bought at a place called tanner electronics locally. So I would say the diodes would be the only part that would hold it up from being able to be repaired quickly
Reply:since i have that 140 amp alternator and I have this 10hp motor which i know is running  I figured I would start building the frame and getting everything in order to test out this setup. I have a 15hp motor but im waiting on a new carb from ebay for it. The 15hp motor will replace the 10hp motor when i get the carb for it. But all the wiring and so on wont change.I started on collecting a couple of relays to make the control box part of it. Im thinking about getting an amp gauge and putting it on there to see what the amps are set to with a volt meter showing the output voltage to the field.
Reply:Originally Posted by jbmprodsthe Scott welder i have is 125 amp dc and uses a 7.5hp Wisconsin Robin engine to power it. it handles 1/8" 7018 no problem.
Reply:Originally Posted by jbmprodsthe Scott welder i have is 125 amp dc and uses a 7.5hp Wisconsin Robin engine to power it. it handles 1/8" 7018 no problem. it is the first engine drive welder i owned and still have it 25 years later. the cost of the machine was $0. i found it laying in the front yard one morning. must have fallen off somebody's truck when they made the turn. i posted it in the found section in the local newspaper but nobody came forward to claim it so i kept it. all it got when it hit the ground was a small dent in the gas tank. it still welds like a champ. i keep waiting for a new Miller TB to land in the yard.
Reply:got the alternator gutted, and ran a wire to the field, pulled the diodes out fo it, hooked up three heavy wires to the stator. where the diodes use to hook up. going to use the plasma cutter and cut the frame for the alternator to mount today, then hook up the wires to the diodes and the rest of the wiring to the motor, put the belt on and see what it does. Im still working out the wiring on the controls for the two buttons on the stinger. One will activate the Dimmer switch which will run at a controlled voltage , and the other button will feed the full 12v from the battery to the field to help start an arc if needed. I plan to put the dimmer and the two buttons on the stinger. I like the way my Zena unit allows me to control the amps with out having to go over to the machine multiple times to adjust for different settings.
Reply:Hi All  I'm new. Found this site looking for"Building portable welder "I'm going to build one. I've had a NEW 16HP ES Carrol Stream sitting around for years. I don't wont to reinvent the wheel.So I'd like to ask some questions. It appears the original poster hasn't been around a while.Has anyone built one?  I'm mostly looking for info and suggestions for components relay, diode, rheostat ETC.Again Hi All and thanks for your input.Don Felts
Reply:When I was a kid we used to have the Popular Mechanic's encyclopedia , There  were all kinds of home built welders  in it. and how to make them. I read them cover to cover then  ,long before video games ruined the brains of the youth.gxbxc
Reply:DIY-WelderAlternator Based Welder200+amp alternators work best, you need one where you can easily do away with or by-pass the voltage regulator.Lincoln WeldanPower AC/DCSmith Oxy/Propane SetupVarious cheap - quality tools..  ;-)
Reply:Don't forget, you will need an arc stabilizing coil or choke too.I believe the alternator running just by its self through some diodes is going to try and be a "constant voltage" process.Which means no matter what you do, its going to stick weld really badly.How far away from 110 or 220 power will you be? You can run power pretty far.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:This thread died a long time ago...Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by mad welder 4Don't forget, you will need an arc stabilizing coil or choke too.I believe the alternator running just by its self through some diodes is going to try and be a "constant voltage" process.Which means no matter what you do, its going to stick weld really badly.How far away from 110 or 220 power will you be? You can run power pretty far.
Reply:Originally Posted by mad welder 4Don't forget, you will need an arc stabilizing coil or choke too.I believe the alternator running just by its self through some diodes is going to try and be a "constant voltage" process.Which means no matter what you do, its going to stick weld really badly.How far away from 110 or 220 power will you be? You can run power pretty far.
Reply:An alternator using a reostat shouldn't be a particularly constant voltage.Whatever the ripple current is on the arc voltage will be pretty high frequency, if you figure the rpm of the alternator at about 9000rpm and the number of poles in the rotor and stators. I seem to remember that the Prestolite / Indiel / Leece-Neville alternators on semis have a regulator that is a bolted insert, that could be removed and jumpered.http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_suppor...le_shoot_1.php
Reply:Lincoln and miller used a 16hp motor on their older 200 amp DC welders. These units also made 3000-6000 watts of electric power.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720Originally Posted by zitonWhat is a suitable stabilizing coil or choke?
Reply:http://www.ebay.com/itm/121414730258...%3AMEBIDX%3AITI bought this on ebay today. Reason I bought it is I'm just getting back into welding as a hobby. It is a complete outfit including gas hookup and solenoid. It has steel and aluminum wire, gloves etc. All in all it looked like a good deal. I was a factory mig welder back in the 70s.I've never missed running a production  mig from 7am to 5pm mon-fri. That included 2-15min breaks and 30min lunch. "wow".I'm building a duck boat and mud motor. I need to weld aluminum and stainless. I'm planning to use pure argon for steel and aluminum and flux core wire  for stainless. I have an assortment of stainless steel stick electrodes also.
Reply:Originally Posted by zitonhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/121414730258...%3AMEBIDX%3AITI bought this on ebay today. Reason I bought it is I'm just getting back into welding as a hobby. It is a complete outfit including gas hookup and solenoid. It has steel and aluminum wire, gloves etc. All in all it looked like a good deal. I was a factory mig welder back in the 70s.I've never missed running a production  mig from 7am to 5pm mon-fri. That included 2-15min breaks and 30min lunch. "wow".I'm building a duck boat and mud motor. I need to weld aluminum and stainless. I'm planning to use pure argon for steel and aluminum and flux core wire  for stainless. I have an assortment of stainless steel stick electrodes also.
Reply:Get a set of blemish 8D batterys and you should be good to go, nice and cheap!
Reply:Originally Posted by BlueweldersDo you have a way to keep the batteries charged, so that you have a decent duty cycle ?Straight argon is not the best choice for steel ,a bottle of CO2 would do better, be cheaper and last longer per bottle.
Reply:Originally Posted by gimpyrobbGet a set of blemish 8D batterys and you should be good to go, nice and cheap!