How do you make small pipe straps

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I've used .5" conduit straps to attach a "trailer hitch" to my 125cc dirt bike.  It works better than you would think for gathering firewood at camp.  Any way, this attachment method has lasted since 2010 so I will probably just replace the rear straps that have broken.  It sure would be more permanent though if I could figure out how to bend up some pipe straps out of .125" x .75" mild steel strap.  I have a new 20 ton shop press I could use with any tooling for it.  I also have the HF bender and it gives instructions on how to bend some one inch diameter ones.  I need 1/2" diameter straps to work in this situation.  Anyone?  Ideas? I think I can get .5" "U" shape bent with one of my smaller bending jigs.  After that though, how do I get the 90 degree flanges bent out?  Really scratching my head over this one. Attached Images
Reply:You bend the 90's first, then pull around the die for the "U"Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveYou bend the 90's first, then pull around the die for the "U"
Reply:Why not replace those straps with u-bolts?
Reply:Originally Posted by tbone550Why not replace those straps with u-bolts?
Reply:Use two conduit clamps side by side."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Second vid I show in this thread will show a small bending JIG I made. I use it for flat stock too.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...TIG-torch-boomwww.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumUse two conduit clamps side by side.
Reply:Heated it's not hard at all to do what you want. I have a small round bending jig that would do something like this when heated with a torch or my forge. I'd probably make the legs long to simplify bending it with the jig, then shorten them afterwards. This video doesn't show exactly how I'd bend what you want, but it gives you some ideas how it would be done. the small scrolls on the ends would be your 1st 90 deg bend in your application, then after doing the 180 deg bend, I'd put that by the pin  like the scroll is in the demo, and do the last 90..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW, that's one cool bending jig.  It looks like it could handle .125" stock easily without heat.  My first thoughts for this little project was to try something like two mounted pins that could be clamped at variable distances in the vice with different sized sleeves fitted over one or both pins.
Reply:Tight bends with cold stock requires a fair amount of leverage and spring back can be an issue. My Shop Outfitters bender will do what you want cold easily. Even the HF knock offs aren't all that cheap though. In that case, you'd bend the 180 1st, then bend the 90's and you'd have to use long stock to have the leverage to make it work. Hardest part would be getting all the dimensions worked out to the fixed bend points to deal with flex and spring back. It's not hard to be long buy a tiny bit and things are loose.Heat makes stuff like this easy, and if you need to, it's not hard to tweak somethings that's off slightly..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Wht about through bolting ? Drill through tube and supporting steel.
Reply:Get some rigid conduit straps and weld on a washer for the second hole.  Rigid straps are much thicker."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Make a bending jig from scraps laying around. Use it in the press.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I agree with Ubolts but your system has worked...so what if you replace them every 4 years?  I'm guessing you don't run down the interstate with that trailer.  I would, however, think about connecting the trailer to the swing arm instead of the rack.  If the bike has every "got light in the front end" when pulling the trailer, it is because you have it connected to the rack.  If you connect it to the height of the axel, or lower (swing arm) you will not have that problem.  There will be guys here who will have some scary tractor stories to illustrate my point.
Reply:Originally Posted by Angus in WyomingI agree with Ubolts but your system has worked...so what if you replace them every 4 years?  I'm guessing you don't run down the interstate with that trailer.  I would, however, think about connecting the trailer to the swing arm instead of the rack.  If the bike has every "got light in the front end" when pulling the trailer, it is because you have it connected to the rack.  If you connect it to the height of the axel, or lower (swing arm) you will not have that problem.  There will be guys here who will have some scary tractor stories to illustrate my point.
Reply:Originally Posted by Angus in WyomingI agree with Ubolts but your system has worked...so what if you replace them every 4 years?  I'm guessing you don't run down the interstate with that trailer.  I would, however, think about connecting the trailer to the swing arm instead of the rack.  If the bike has every "got light in the front end" when pulling the trailer, it is because you have it connected to the rack.  If you connect it to the height of the axel, or lower (swing arm) you will not have that problem.  There will be guys here who will have some scary tractor stories to illustrate my point.
Reply:That would weaken the tube.
Reply:Irish got it close, but there is easier way.Take two short scraps of pipe....One the size the strap has to fit, the other one single size larger in diameter.....cut the larger one in half long ways.Place flat strap across the smaller pipe, and larger pipe half on top.......Press in your press......There ya go, complete with ears to drill and bolt thru.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWHeated it's not hard at all to do what you want. I have a small round bending jig that would do something like this when heated with a torch or my forge. I'd probably make the legs long to simplify bending it with the jig, then shorten them afterwards. This video doesn't show exactly how I'd bend what you want, but it gives you some ideas how it would be done. the small scrolls on the ends would be your 1st 90 deg bend in your application, then after doing the 180 deg bend, I'd put that by the pin  like the scroll is in the demo, and do the last 90.
Reply:Thanks guys for all the responses and suggestions on this!  Looks like most all of the ideas would work well enough.I got to spend a little time out in the shop last night and I now have a proof of concept.  Irish fixit’s idea is how I went because the press is new and I needed an excuse to use it for something to prove to myself it was worth buying.I used .5” crs rod for the ram part of the die and some other crs I had laying around for the base.  Pretty straight forward for the layout.  I just added width of the round plus 2x stock thickness for the gap.  I lined it all up by eye ball and stroked her down.  The photos show what came out.After looking at the formed pieces I am getting a bit of an uneasy feeling that they may actually be too small.  That is, the carrier tubing may be slightly larger.  I will find out this weekend when I get out there and put a caliper on it.  If it is, I will just unbolt and bring the whole carrier back home to complete the work.  That would be handier to access with the transfer punches anyway.Anyway,  once again:  Thanks! Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ndr1968I got to spend a little time out in the shop last night and I now have a proof of concept.  Irish fixit’s idea is how I went because the press is new and I needed an excuse to use it for something to prove to myself it was worth buying.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireLooks great. Did you see the similar setup Rob Garner posted over in the homemade tools section? He has a video of him pressing them hot. Definitely worth watching. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...21#post5665721
Reply:Personally I'd want it a little tight for this application. Anyway you always have to allow for spring back so the punch should of been a little undersized. But probably the best would of been to of simply ground a flat on the side of the punch where it meets the top die. That would allow them to go around the pipe and still pull it down tight.  At any rate good job and a good learning experience.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitPersonally I'd want it a little tight for this application. Anyway you always have to allow for spring back so the punch should of been a little undersized. But probably the best would of been to of simply ground a flat on the side of the punch where it meets the top die. That would allow them to go around the pipe and still pull it down tight.  At any rate good job and a good learning experience.Originally Posted by ndr1968Hmmmm.  You've done this before haven't you!  So you're saying I probably should have made the punch .675" and grind off, oh, say .010"-.020" to raise the ears up enough for snug down?
Reply:Originally Posted by ndr1968Hmmmm.  You've done this before haven't you!  So you're saying I probably should have made the punch .675" and grind off, oh, say .010"-.020" to raise the ears up enough for snug down?
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitYeah been there done that, got the tee shirt, etc. All part of the learning process.   I'd say you've got the dimensions pretty close there. Probably would of come out pretty good. The only other thing you could do is to grind it so that the ears are over bent a little so they'll spring back straight. But that's starting to get more involved than needed for this job. As it is I'm sure the bolts will pull the ears straight even if you've not already tweaked them in the vise with a hammer.
Reply:Looks good to me. As long as they clamp tight enough the will work great.   For the galling two things come to mind to minimize it (I don't think you'll ever completely eliminate it). First is to round the corner on the bottom pieces some more. It would also be nice if they where really hard steel but that's a lot more difficult to do. Next you need a high pressure lube. There's several out there but some form of Moly paste is my favorite for those applications. I keep Moly powder in the shop and would probably mix it with some good heavy oil to make a thick paste for this application. But there are others out there. Even some STP or similar would help.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:For the galling, radius the edges of the die and polish it.  Then use a high pressure lube. Or at least something like bacon grease, Moly lube or graphite."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumUse two conduit clamps side by side.
Reply:Originally Posted by KozmoOr simply double up one over another--those are usually made so that it would be possible to do so.  At the most you might have to open up the holes on one clamp a bit.   In any case...you probably can't get any easier.  Sometimes the quick and dirty solution is better than over-thinking it.
Reply:Update:  I finally got out there to the trailer and installed the new straps.First photo clearly shows what happened to the conduit strap set up.Next two photos show the “dirt-side” repair/installation set up.  I keep a fairly complete tool set out there.Last photo is of the installation as completed.  These should last the lifetime of the bike itself.Thanks again for all your input  guys.  You will no doubt see me with some other problem or other in future.  I’ve got a feeling this site is going to be one of the most valuable and indispensable “tools” I have! Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ndr1968Last photo is of the installation as completed.  These should last the lifetime of the bike itself.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauNow you need to go back, take it off and sand off the rust. Then primer it and paint it blue to match the rack/bike and to ensure it will last as long as the bike and not rust away on you. Rustoluem Sail Blue looks to be a pretty close match if not spot on in color.
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderFlapper disk  That sure looks like Krylon Ford engine blue to me. Rustoleum takes too danged long to dry and runs too easy...You Yankees up in north Lousyana need your eyes calibrated
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauNow you need to go back, take it off and sand off the rust. Then primer it and paint it blue to match the rack/bike and to ensure it will last as long as the bike and not rust away on you. Rustoluem Sail Blue looks to be a pretty close match if not spot on in color.
Reply:You can get the Sail Blue in brush on containers. The brush on paint gives better, longer lasting coverage than rattle can paint anyway. Get some of the Rustoleum primer for rusty metal to put on first. It says for rusty metal, but it is still best to remove as much rust as possible before applying.
Reply:Pipe straps were made in a punch press 50 years ago.Full automatic presses where I worked.You will have to makes dies for a hydraulic press.Your hitch point is too high,could make the bike rear up in a hard pull.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer37Your hitch point is too high,could make the bike rear up in a hard pull.
Reply:Originally Posted by ndr1968I know.  Pulling the little four wheeled wagon has never been a problem.  The two wheeled black/gray water hauler can be a challenge though.  I have to skootch up as far as I can and sit on the fuel tank and go along in first gear just fast enough to stay balanced.  Even then a crazy, slow side to side oscillation can get going.  A few times it got so bad I had to stop and get everything straightened out before continuing.  Video of that would have worked for a rodeo clown routine!  The only photo I could find of the waste water hauling set up was before I got the 125.  I learned to do it on a KC70 pit bike.  Once you've done it that way, anything else seems easy!  Like I said before, it still sure beats lugging it over there on foot.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauMaybe you should build a four wheel trailer for your waste water tank, so it can be pulled like your other wagon.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=trailer
Reply:hi there Iam new to the welding web how can I get drawings for pipe strap and also were dose it mount to please send me plans at Edwin Serrano
Reply:Originally Posted by Edwin Serranohi there Iam new to the welding web how can I get drawings for pipe strap and also were dose it mount to please send me plans at Edwin Serrano
Reply:OK, here's the dimensioned photos.  All I did was slap a caliper on them.  Nothing overly precise here.  I just made this up out of scraps pretty much.  The only critical dimensions would be the diameter of the punch and the spacing of the gap on the die.  If you are forming 1/8" material it should be the desired diameter plus a quarter inch (2x.125"=.25").  Hope that's a little clearer than mud! Attached Images