Remove Powder Coat

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Hi All,The search function wasn't much help, so I am asking if there is a thread about how to get rid of partially failed powder coat?I've been posting about re-skinning my snowplow and I've hit a snag; My media-blasting setup was 5 hours of frustration yesterday. I was planning of getting rid of the rust and old powder coat at the same time. So, what have others successfully used to get a paintable surface on something that was powder coated 15 years ago, but now is a mix of rusty metal, new metal and still good powder coat?Any and all help, derision and silliness is appreciated. ThanksBe wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:My experience has only been on small pieces, but I have used a propane torch to heat it up until it curls and then use a wire wheel in an angle grinder.
Reply:Benco B17 is a good powdercoating stripper, but you'd need a big tank of it ($$$) to do a snowplow.  You might be able to lay paper towels on the areas to strip and then soak those in it and maybe cover in plastic to slow evaporation.  It's nasty stuff - rubber boots, full PVC rainsuit, heavy chem gloves (not thin nitrile ones), respirator, and goggles + faceshield would be recommended if going that route.  Plus several jugs of clean water for emergency rinsing.  It has a significant portion of methylene chloride, so you'd want to make sure it's all gone (power washing or media blasting) to avoid making phosgene gas when welding.  You may be able to find Klean Strip KS-3 locally (Home Depot), which is also a methylene chloride-based stripper.  Might require more applications as it's not quite the beast that B17 is, but it's easier to get a hold of in smaller quantities.  Working outdoors with either is recommended.Otherwise, it's mechanical (knotted wire wheel on angle grinder or needle scaler if you can stand the surface getting dinged up) or thermal (cook it off with a big weed-burning torch while managing to not warp part and avoid inhaling ala Bill Clinton).
Reply:If you are near a Powder coated, then perhaps you could get them to burn it off. Or a large oven with 500 degrees capacity.
Reply:Do it frequently for repair items.burn off with small propane or large weed burner,then have blasted and re-coated.Blackbird
Reply:Sandblast.Period. this is what powder houses do.They blast everything, then coat it. If they screw up, It gets blasted again and recoated. there is no magic potion. fix your media blasting setup or pay to have it blasted. Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:its a snow plow, spray rustoleum and call it a day...lol...if you really want , use the red rusty metal primer before spray painting...sorta waste of money to make it so pretty....and touch up is just a can away..Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Thanks for all the input. Looks like my path is clear.I'm gonna say "Pass" on the harsh chemicals for now. Get the sandblaster rig operating properly; Overdue engine service. Dismantle and clean the pot. Wash and sift the media.O/A (the propane torches couldn't get the steel hot enough) burn off as much remaining powder coat as possible.Media blast the soot and loose rust. No need to go down to bare metal, just clean enough so the paint won't peal.Shoot Rustolium primer and 2 coats of color.Thanks again!Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:I do all the repairs for the local powder coater and have to deal with multi layers of powder coating. I just grind where I weld but the powder coater guy uses a propane torch to burn it into a state that will easily sand blast off. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by BobI do all the repairs for the local powder coater and have to deal with multi layers of powder coating. I just grind where I weld but the powder coater guy uses a propane torch to burn it into a state that will easily sand blast off.
Reply:Originally Posted by mike837goDat's da plan. 'Septin' I ain't got da rite propane torch. Gonna just have t' suffer wit O/A....
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbhere ye go..hf special..http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-91033.html...
Reply:Originally Posted by mike837goThat's like 1 of the 2 I tried Sunday afternoon. I'm dealing with 3/16" and 1/4' steel. The top plate is 3" wide. Trying to get it hot enough to soften and ignite the powder coat didn't happen.
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosTwo words: pallet bonfire.
Reply:if you think you have bent metal now, just heat the frame in a fire pit and see how warped it becomes...lolOf all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbif you think you have bent metal now, just heat the frame in a fire pit and see how warped it becomes...lol
Reply:Another work around is to use OSPHO on it before priming. It will eat any flaking paint and get to the rust under edges of powdercoating. It turns the rust into a hard paintable surface.  I use it all the time on my equipment (sometimes don't even paint over it). You can get it at any marine/fishery supply or get more info at:http://www.ospho.com
Reply:Originally Posted by seandaAnother work around is to use OSPHO on it before priming. It will eat any flaking paint and get to the rust under edges of powdercoating. It turns the rust into a hard paintable surface.  I use it all the time on my equipment (sometimes don't even paint over it). You can get it at any marine/fishery supply or get more info at:http://www.ospho.com
Reply:one other option is to spray rhino liner on it, mabe not the front face as it has a semi no slip finish, but that stuff is tuff as hell...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Easy-off oven cleaner, wear rubber gloves and hose and clean the balls out of it before you weld over it.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by mike837goWhen I first started this project, I was expecting to apply some patches. But ...
Reply:Whelp, got to it last night. O/A torch out of O2. Managed to add a beautiful layer of soot over the old powder coat.Grabbed the weed burner and gathered up some patience. Warmed the top enough to boil the old powder coat and ignite it. Then I grabbed a putty knife. Only warmed the metal enough to soften the old powder coat and scraped. An hour+ of futzing around and the top plate is 80-90% cleared. Follow-up with an air grinder (40 grit disk) and it's almost ready for paint.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by seandaI think those same exact words came out of my mouth last week   Good luck with it, let us know what you end up doing