cutting railroad rail -plasma / band saw? need some advice

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Hey guys, I was looking for some help in bulding an xmas present project. I need to cut an 8" railroad rail in half (two 4" sections). I am making book ends for a buddy who is a train nut. I need for the cut to be kind of smooth. I don't mind doing some grinding to finish it up. I don't have OA. I do have access to a hypertherm 30 plasma cutter. I don't know if that would do it. I was thinking of using a band saw. Does anyone have a better way of doing this? Thanks for the advice in advance
Reply:Chop saw.My name's not Jim....
Reply:bandsaw
Reply:If you cut them on a band saw I would cut the upside down... when I cut some rails a while back the top surface seemed very very hard and the blade would struggle to get through the top. Once it was through it would cut better. I flipped them upside down and they seemed to cut much faster.I don't know if they actually hardened the rails, but if they didn't I would guess strain hardening.I would go for a chopsaw if you have one big enough... they cut SLOW on the bandsaw either way.
Reply:This really sounds like a job for OA....are you sure there isn't anyone nearby that can lend you one?Might be worth having it cut.The last time I had RR cut, a buddy who is a chief at a volunteer fire department had his guys practice using some kind of rescue cutter - for free.The top is work hardened - I use mine as a striking surface, poor man's anvil.  It is hard enough to damage my small sledge hammer faces if I strike the cut corner.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:I just bought a used Partner saw and it came with railroad rail cutting abrasive blades.I would call Grainger, or any construction supply house near you. Pick up a couple 14" chop saw blades for rail. Then go to any concrete company and give them a couple of bucks to cut them. And let them keep the blades, because they will also cut rebar. You could probably get this done for around $25.00 total. Good luck."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:The old timers that I know talk about having to cut them with hacksaws back in the day!Miller 250x & Lincoln V205-TSmith Oxy-Prop torch
Reply:Originally Posted by ChuckThe old timers that I know talk about having to cut them with hacksaws back in the day!
Reply:Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:An 80 to 100 amp hand plasma (Hypertherm Powermax85 or Powermax1650) will be about the fastest process....if you had to do a lot. If it is just one or two cuts....then a band saw or abrasive saw will work fine...and with a cleaner, straighter cut. Just a bit slow!  The top surface is pretty hard....which will have no effect on the plasma speed....but it will slow down a saw.Jim
Reply:Since this is a gift that will be on display with a railroad enthusiast, how ‘bout cutting the rail the authentic old-time way?Score it with a chisel and then "split" it per 1869.It may be tough with a short length of rail, but it'd probably still be workable.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 11-30-2011 at 07:30 PM.
Reply:6" or better cutting disks on an angle grinder would do it quite smoothly.
Reply:Originally Posted by gwiley...chief at a volunteer fire department had his guys practice using some kind of rescue cutter...
Reply:Originally Posted by AquafireIt's a "K12" or "rotary rescue saw".  The same saw you can rent at any equipment rental place.  If you do go this route, it will be pretty quick, but noisy (and sparky) as hell.  Oh, and make sure the 16 year old behind the counter gives you metal and not concrete blades.
Reply:i second the 6 in cutting wheel on a angle grinder be done in about 5 min than hit the ends with a tiger paw and call it a day.....After the arc has died the weld remains
Reply:Track torch and then set it up in a mill to smooth down.
Reply:Originally Posted by bfastwelderTrack torch and then set it up in a mill to smooth down.
Reply:A track cutter runs the cutting torch down a track at a given speed so, once set up, you get "nice" straight line cuts. My own suggestion would be to use a band saw. If the blade is fine enough, the cut surface won't require much finishing and if you aren't "doing production", who really cares how long it takes? Although you should keep an eye on it, it's not like you have to sit and watch it.XMT304 (school)SP125+ (home)HF 4x6 BandsawGood judgement comes from experience and much of that comes from bad judgement.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepOkay, I'll say it:  "Uncle" What's a track torch?  Do you mean a track torch as in line-burner, or something unique for track cutting?Good Luck
Reply:I'd just throw it on the water jet and be done with it.Second choice would be the bandsaw.The OP could take it to any decent fab shop in the area who would cut it for a few bucks.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Yea sorry an in-line torch torch. I got sausage fingers as my old lady says. Lol
Reply:Right, I understand exactly what a track-torch/ torch-carriage/line-burner/Bug/whatever is.What I didn't understand is how a track-torch could be used as a practical way to cut rail perpendicuular to the flange, so I thought maybe the reference was to some other  track-torch, which  was specific to rail cutting.But anyway, for the OP, Sundown probably covered it best: Originally Posted by SundownIII . . . The OP could take it to any decent fab shop in the area who would cut it for a few bucks.
Reply:Probably not what everyone wants to hear but......take it down to your local steel supply...real deal that deals wth big structural steel ( ex: 16 inch I beams ).Pay them whatever their cutting charge is $10-20...??? a cut. Anyway you tackle this its going to cost you more in your own tools The right tip for my torch and gas will cost that.They will put it on a big honking bandsaw and have it done in 15 mins. Advice on turning it upside down and starting the cut from the softer underside is good advice.Its not treated on the top surface, the steel on steel wheels do that with time.Here is a link to some rail spec's ( not all ): http://www.icrr.net/rails.htm
Reply:I agree with Fred, take it to someone that can cold cut it, maybe with a huge band saw, power hacksaw, cold saw, or whatever. You will get a nice clean square cut that way.Hot cutting it will leave you with a not quite so flat end, that is going to take a lot more finishing before it will look look nice enough for display.Cheers,  Tony._________________________________Transmig 310 + Argoshield LightOxy acetyleneOxy propanePrehistoric stick welder_________________________________
Reply:Hard to beleve so much thought going into this when i see it done everyday.Demolition saw with Rail Cut abrasive blades.Thats how they cut it in the rail industry before they termite weld.If is just a quick cut to remove a section, then its flame cut.You line the track up on the edge of your table and tack weld hangers from the bottom of your table out past the table were you will be able to sit the rail lower and parallel to the the track. Lower obviously to get height adjustment out of the torch head. Parallel so you can cut it long ways. I do it all the time when I split 5*5 Solid hex bar for jobs. I will try and set it up so you can get a visual.
Reply:Originally Posted by bfastwelderYou line the track up on the edge of your table. . . Parallel so you can cut it long ways.
Reply:OK here's an update. I tried to do it on my 14 inch chop saw. tried: (verb) not sucessful at ... I got half way through it and hit the thick webbing. It was taking a long long time time. I am going to the steel ditributor down the road with a case of beer a pocket full of cash.  hopefully they will just put it on the big band saw for me. Thanks for the advice guys, will post pictures when done.
Reply:Call your closest welder I'm sure they will be glad to cut it for a couple bucks!AEAD 200LE, Lincoln precision tig 185, Millermatic 251, Spectrum 625 extreme, Victor torch , Smithy 1220LTD. and  Do all C-4 band saw ,  Always adding.
Reply:Originally Posted by gator9329OK here's an update. I tried to do it on my 14 inch chop saw. tried: (verb) not sucessful at ... I got half way through it and hit the thick webbing. It was taking a long long time time.
Reply:I did a big RR track scrapping job a few years ago, oxy propane, with a bulldog tip, and it was like cutting butter.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmYou probably got the blade too hot and it glazed over.  You need to cut thick stuff in short spurts.  Lean on it, back off, lean on it, back off....
Reply:I regularly cut railroad track.  I run the amada (ellis bandsaw brand blades) blades in my 1974 rockwell bandsaw.  Just put the blade on slow with a slow feed rate.  Coolant is a must.  I can cut 115lb rail in less than 3 minutes.  I probably have cut at least 50 pieces of track this way.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:You may have gotten your track cut already, but for future reference, you can cut track surprisingly easily with zip wheels. It takes 2-3 wheels, but for a single cut, very little cleanup afterward, and very little equipment, it  is a very good way to do it.