Making Aluminum Cart & Water Cooler for TIG

admin

Here's an aluminum cart I'm making for my Everlast PT200DX that I got a couple months ago. It's built almost entirely out of stuff that was laying around from other jobs. The lower level of the cart will hold the water cooler setup I'm making. I also plan on putting a slide-out drawer somewhere for consumables. Sorry for the crappy pics, they were taken with my cell phone because my camera is having issues.Base level and water tank. 5" heavy duty casters from shipwreck tools, and 10" solid rubber wheels which I had laying around.2 Gallon water tank made from .063" aluminum. The aluminum tank will act as a heatsink which will help since I will not be using a heat exchanger.Made a bung that will accommodate an automotive valve cover cap from Autozone. This cap will pop out if the tank should ever freeze. Also put on two 1/8" NPT bungs for the water feed and return.1/2" allthread and nyloc nuts holding the wheels on.Here is the water pump I'm using. It's a Shurflo agricultural diaphragm pump. It easily makes like 200psi if you let it. Maximum free flow is like 1gpm or something. This is a 12volt model pump. I've found that running it from the 3.3v supply from a computer power supply holds it right around 50psi through my 12' WP-20 torch. There are some issues that I will address when I install the system into the cart, more on this later.Here are some tubes that will hold different types of filler rod.Here you can see 2 short tubes welded on top that will locate the welder's rubber feet. Also, the filler rod holding tubes are bolted to the cart.Here you can see how the ratchet strap mounts to hold the argon tank on.Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-15-2011 at 05:40 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Ratchet strap firmly holding the welder down. The carry handle on top of the welder also acts as the handle to move the cart.If you have a similar welder I would strongly suggest you throw away your everlast supplied torch and get a small water cooled torch. I got this complete 12.5' 250amp WP-20 torch with rubber lines on ebay for $89 shipped; truly worth every penny.I'll post more as I make more progress.Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-15-2011 at 05:43 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Interesting choice for the pump. You said it has a max free flow of 1GPM. That's free, unrestricted flow right? Have you thought about what it will drop to when it has to go through the tiny orifices in your torch head? Better check it before you start cranking the heat through it. The flow rate might be way to low and then you'll cook your power lead.I built mine with a Procon because I couldn't find a suitable alternative. Make sure you keep the coolant clean too. Even a pinhole in that diaphragm pump will put it out of commission.Cart looks cool.E
Reply:Thanks.50psi is going to push the same amount of water through the torch's fixed restriction regardless of what kind of pump produces it.I just tested it at 20 fl oz per minute @ ~42psiI've run about three 80cu-ft tanks of argon now and the torch has never become warm. The return water feels like Innovations are what i leave behind for History
Reply:Originally Posted by Thiel-Metal-FabNice   work   !     i have an   obssesion  for aluminum     ,        So   u get   an  A+   .     the  idea   that DSW   had      to run   the coolant   through   the frame work   would be real cool   !   They   do it  on  alot of  snowmobile  chassis   now.
Reply:Nice work
Reply:Just as a quick update..I put a $7 copper air trap on the pump outlet to serve as a pulsation damper. It fixed the pulsing issue and took the psi needle bounce from ~40psi to 1psi. Pressure now reads a steady 36psi running from the 3.3v line of the power supply. All that's left really is to figure out how I'm going to lay everything out on the cart, get a couple lines made locally, and weld some lead hangers onto the cart.Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-24-2011 at 03:02 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:That's real nice, Mike.  A lot of welding carts flying around these here interwebs and not too many really impress me.  Your does.  I have a 256 and I too would like to know how that 200 is working out for you.  Again, good work.
Reply:Very nice
Reply:TIG torch leads are copper, so the water circulating in the leads that return to the aluminum tanks I've built over the  years were carrying copper ions from that copper lead.My aluminum cooling water tanks, all four of them, rotted out in a few years; all made of 1/8" or lighter 5086 H116 which doesn't care about salt water but is just a battery for copper solutions.Coating may help? glycol can slow the interaction but unless your torch leads are not copper (!! ??) this tank will pit out in a few years, but they're simple to build new and cool well in the mean time and a new tiny box tank every four or five years is not a big inconvenience.If you run the return coolant into the aluminum frame, especially 60series extrusions the process will eat the frame up as well as the tank and happen faster with the 60series extrusions.The tank will radiate fine for smaller torches, if you run a 300A system all day at 280+ amps then a six to eight gallon reservoir will get hot to the touch but still cool the torch.  One aid is to weld bars/strips along side the  tank that allow more conduction and cooling by increased convection- fins would increase the cooling of this smaller tank should it become an issue?You can back the pump's motor up to the tank's welded-on fins and increase the heat removal without adding an external radiator, too.Good use of the pulse dampener to allow the PD pump to do this job, all the copper in the system will add ions to the water but will also radiate heat themselves.cheers,Kevin Morin
Reply:Make some more progress the other day..Made some lead hangers. The aluminum is 3M VHB taped together, and held down with the strap.Made a little polished "dash board" for the water inlet/outlet quick connect fittings and an illuminated toggle switch for the pump.Plumbing is basically finished nowLeads all rolled up. Still need to make a hanger for the pedal and do the wiring, then it'll be done.Last edited by MikeGyver; 07-31-2011 at 11:05 PM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Ok got the wiring done today.Modified computer power supply.Picked up this crappy 250w supply for $3 from a surplus type store. Made a few mods to it so it could be used. Most importantly a trimpot was added to the 3.3Vsense to trick the supply into raising the 3.3v rail a bit. I can get the 3.3v rail up to 3.5v or so, my better supply went to 3.8v which gave 50psi.Toggle switch for water pump and indicator light.Yeah, it's pretty bright lol. Hopefully I won't forget the pump is off again now.Running around 42psi on 3.5v or something.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Just as a followup for those who may be interested in building their own...It's been almost a year now and this water cooler setup is still working flawlessly. I have never had one single issue with it yet and the machine sees a fair amount of use.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:so how is this welder working out for you Mike are you satisified with your setup or wish you went another route?If you are unsure about the tank just add a little radiator conditioner to the water."Liberalism is a mental disorder" Dr. Savage
Reply:Originally Posted by OffshoreNDTso how is this welder working out for you Mike are you satisified with your setup or wish you went another route?
Reply:"awesome possum" nice looking cart...its got the wheels turning in my head.
Reply:Originally Posted by Kelvin I would just toss a piece of zinc into the aluminum tank to act as a sacrificial anode. Boat places sell them.
Reply:Also, putting a sacrificial anode inside the closed water system is a bad idea as it would corrode and make a huge mess in the closed system.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverI absolutely love this welder, cart, water cooler, torch. I have no regrets at all. I have an awesome setup that was like $1400. You can't hardly even get a similarly equipped old miller synchrowave 180 for that, not that I'd even want one of those.But to be fair, the only thing I do not care for on my model of Everlast is the pulser. It works in a non-standard, essentially useless way; it's designed for a machine application or something they said. The information published on everlast's website incorrectly stated it was the 'normal/traditional' type. I would have bought the model up from the 200dx (which has the 'normal' pulser) if I had known this. Unfortunately the clowns at everlast were absolutely unwilling to work with me even though it was their mistake. They did however promptly fix their published mis-information.I would not recommend this model if you want a traditional pulser, and sadly I cannot recommend Everlast as a company due to the poor customer support, even though some of their products can be made entirely decent with minimal un-chinese-ing. Honestly though, I never expected much in the customer support department.I will add I have only received excellent customer support from Miller when I had a problem with one of their products.Bottom line, swapping to the awesome WP-20f water cooled torch single-handedly MADE this welder a pleasure to use. The everlast-supplied torch was beyond a joke.If you've never use this torch before then you won't understand how nice it is, it blows the same sized WP-9f air cooled torch out of the water, err air, no wait :-/
Reply:Originally Posted by JoshfromsaltlakeThose are used for STEEL boats. Considering the fact that aluminum has a higher oxidation potential than zinc, that might be a bad idea. What would happen would be the aluminum would cathodically protect the zinc, at least in theory.
Reply:we've kind a mixed our metal corrosion causes in this post!Galvanic corrosion, or the 'battery power' of metals like aluminum or steel or copper, happens when a conductive solution contacts both metals. So the aluminum tank is going to go away from corrosion internally from the copper ions that are in the torch head, cable and fittings: and it can't be stopped, maybe slowed but its going to happen, unless the two metals are separated. But being wet, that's not happening without a liner for the tank.Next, is stray current corrosion or electrolysis that happens on all metal boats with a charge relative to the surrounding water.  Zinc could be attached to any metal boat and would electrically migrate (electrically/cathodically) into the water before aluminum or steel.  So zinc can 'protect' a hull or outboard' but not from a copper ion solution in a coolant water tank of aluminum! Mine have all (6-7 tanks) lasted about four to six years (0.080" to 1/8") and only leak a few pits here and there showing they're done.  What's a little box every few years?  They radiate well, are quick and cheap and are just a consumable part of the shop.cheers,Kevin Morin
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerBull****!  Aluminum is more noble than zinc. Read the chart, and maybe know what you are talking about before you open your virtual yap.http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic...n_Seawater.htm
Reply:Hey what connections did you use off the pump?  Is that just a regular brass type fitting I can get at a hardware store.  I have the pump, but I have been pushing the build off for too long now.  Time to get crackin.  But I just need to know if I need to order special connectors off the pump.Thanks!JoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:Just to add to what someone mentioned about a sacrificial anode.They mentioned using zinc but from my experience zinc is used in saltwater and magnesium is used in freshwater. A proper(magnesium) anode in your tank would prevent any possible corrosion issues Imo.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Had me wondering why Yamaha put 2 zinc electrodes on my aluminum outboard marine engine, and why they rot away and need to be changed every few years.  Hey Mike, How hard would it be to connect a rod of zinc right in the center of your fill cap?  You'd have to just make sure you had metal conductivity between the tank and the cap.  Perhaps with a small retaining cable from the tank to the screw you would mount the electrode to?
Reply:Originally Posted by joebieHey what connections did you use off the pump?  Is that just a regular brass type fitting I can get at a hardware store.  I have the pump, but I have been pushing the build off for too long now.  Time to get crackin.  But I just need to know if I need to order special connectors off the pump.Thanks!
Reply:Sweet, now I just need to figure out what size the water connections on the torch are.JoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:Originally Posted by joebieSweet, now I just need to figure out what size the water connections on the torch are.
Reply:Correction,the short water line pictured above is the return. Cold water is pumped directly to the main source of heat, then it is returned through the power cable.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Hmm... Mine look like the below:Some weird kind of compression style or something like thatJoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:The cooler should be fine as long as it has distilled water.  In order for galvanic corrosion to occur, you need an electrolyte, which distilled water is not.  If you had saltwater or some sort of acid mixture, it would be a different story.  Oh and nice cart by the way!
Reply:You guys in colder climates run antifreeze in the system?
Reply:I use a mix of RV anti freeze and water from my reverse osmosis system.  Seems to work well.  RV antifreeze works because there is no leak sealing additives in it that regular automotive coolant has.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:I forgot to add anything last winter. Im sure it froze a couple times. I'll add antifreze or windshield washer fluid or something.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Glad the welder is working good for u still and you example of misinformation is why everlasting continues to get its well deserved bad rap in the customer care dept.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverI forgot to add anything last winter. Im sure it froze a couple times. I'll add antifreze or windshield washer fluid or something.
Reply:lol my tank froze to a chunk of ice a couple weeks ago because I was too lazy to do anything about it until I needed to weld something. I added some washer fluid in an emergency, I'dd have to flush it out and replace it with something else.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by anickodeThe reason I bumped the thread is to point out that you should NEVER EVER put washer fluid in anything made of aluminum.  Washer fluid is something like 40% methanol, which will dissolve the protective oxide coating on aluminum in short order, and then it'll start going to town on the aluminum itself.  For all the people going into such nitpicky details as galvanic corrosion between copper and aluminum in distilled water, I'm surprised nobody picked up on that.