My first fab build. Little work bench/cabinet.

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I was told that I should post on this site for real advice and not just armchair warrior advice on welding. I'm an Electrician/Instrumentation by trade. And can fab things with strut and ready rod like no one else, but this is my first go at welding. (ps, welding even grinded strut sucks for some reason)So I built a little bench with a enclosed storage for my ammo in it. Used a 120V Mig with 75/25 gas and 0.030 solid wire. All the steel is 1/8 except the top plate, it is 1/4. I watched some YouTube videos to learn. Just looking for a little advice. This is the completed bench, it's 2x2, and built the same as the longer bench I got for free from work. This is the square tubing to the top plate. I think this looks great.Another weld between the square tube and the plate, this one is more on the plate than the tube though.[/url]This is what most of the welds look like, all a little crooked, hard to see whats going on.They all ground down into a solid metal looking part.Even though some welds were a little gross...And this one needed a second pass, lolAnd these things made everything very easy!The welds that were a nice 90 or nice and flat were much easier than the rounded edge to the plate. But I would love to hear what people think and any tips.Painted it up and put it in it's place.Just need a way to lock it still. Something that looks good, and not a pad lock. Yes my vice is held on with a couple c clamps, lol. Needed to use it before I knew where I wanted it. I'm thinking I should weld the two tops together. Or some way to keep the tables in place, since painting the floor it slips around a little too much. Also still need a way to lock it that look good, and holds it closed even with the little bit of bend in the door (the top closes about 3/8 before the bottom. And I need something better to protect the metal, had a couple beers on there leave rust rings, lol.What I have learned so far: I need to grind the milscale off before welding, who knew that metal wasn't just metal, lol. So nice shiny metal welding only now.And I need to turn my gas rate down a bit (it's causing the soot?)I need lighter shade, I couldn't see anything with the shade 12 I have. I have also learned that while my table is not welded great, it probably won't fall apart on me, lol.My next project is a welding table/cart. I have 6 one foot by one foot 1/2" plates with 3/4" holes in the corners. My plan is to bevel the edges and make it a table, probably need to weld them all down to a frame of some sort first to make sure I end up with a level surface. Thinking the holes might be nice for... well I dunno, it's free. Hopefully making it also be my welding cart will be ok, I'll make sure the welder and bottle are protected from grinding and sparks with a shield. Any advice/critiques or tips are always welcome.
Reply:Nice job and some pretty good welds, except for those couple, lol. How well do those hinges work?
Reply:Great first project.  Good luck. Keep on welding
Reply:Originally Posted by RMJacobs83Nice job and some pretty good welds, except for those couple, lol. How well do those hinges work?
Reply:I don't do much mig so the only thing I can help you with is your welding lense, get a gold one # 10 is what I use, you will be able to see so much betterMiller Legend AEAD 200LE
Reply:Originally Posted by HizermtnweldingI don't do much mig so the only thing I can help you with is your welding lense, get a gold one # 10 is what I use, you will be able to see so much better
Reply:Gold is fixed shade only, it's a coating on the lense that reflects light back on the weld, it also has a lighter color when welding.  That's why I use them because I can't stand the dark green color but a autodark shade 10 would work too if you prefer autodarkMiller Legend AEAD 200LE
Reply:If you want to weld unistrut, dip the area in muriatic acid for about 30 seconds. It will eat all the zinc off and leave you with clean steel. $7 a gallon a blowes, homo depot, wal*fart.You can't get all the nooks and crannies by grinding, and it would look ridiculous if you were to try.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Where did you find the hinges?  Have a good source?Are you going to put a latch on the door?  Anything you would do differently with the door?  Seems to not fit flush when closed, is that an issue?
Reply:I use a Miller auto dark hood and keep it set on shade 10, I also have a fixed shade gold lense hood, shade 10 in case of problems with the AD hood or someone wants to watch how a weld is laid down. Most folks on here refer to time welding with the hood down as "hood time". That covers stick, MIG and TIG welding, so get you some more hood time for practice. Your not doing too bad for someone just starting AND using a too dark lense.Here's a highly recommended way to mount your vise. Weld 2" receiver tube under your work bench to hold the vise or any other bench mounted device so it is not permanently mounted and can be removed and installed as you need it or swapped out with other pieces when you want to use them. Then you can easily take them off when you need to whole top open and uncluttered. You add this to your work bench and you will want a few more if you may use multiple devices on one project with out having to constantly swap them around. I have one on each corner of my welding table. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by whiskeymikeWhere did you find the hinges?  Have a good source?Are you going to put a latch on the door?  Anything you would do differently with the door?  Seems to not fit flush when closed, is that an issue?
Reply:Here's a thread about mill scale.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?76301-Millscale
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauI use a Miller auto dark hood and keep it set on shade 10, I also have a fixed shade gold lense hood, shade 10 in case of problems with the AD hood or someone wants to watch how a weld is laid down. Most folks on here refer to time welding with the hood down as "hood time". That covers stick, MIG and TIG welding, so get you some more hood time for practice. Your not doing too bad for someone just starting AND using a too dark lense.Here's a highly recommended way to mount your vise. Weld 2" receiver tube under your work bench to hold the vise or any other bench mounted device so it is not permanently mounted and can be removed and installed as you need it or swapped out with other pieces when you want to use them. Then you can easily take them off when you need to whole top open and uncluttered. You add this to your work bench and you will want a few more if you may use multiple devices on one project with out having to constantly swap them around. I have one on each corner of my welding table.
Reply:Yeah, like I said any bench mounted type of device can be done this way. Bench vice, pipe vice, drill press, bench grinder, etc., etc. You may want several when you see how handy it is.
Reply:Found a welding shop near my work that said I could take anything I wanted from their scrap bin, seems they pay to have the scrap taken away, so the more I take the better. I got two pieces of 2" square, but both are like 3" short of making it to the back support too, lol. But I'll figure something out. What I really need is something to protect the top of the tables with, my beers keep leaving rust rings.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jeff000I got two pieces of 2" square, but both are like 3" short of making it to the back support too, lol. But I'll figure something out.Weld the two of them together and have one long enough to reach. What I really need is something to protect the top of the tables with, my beers keep leaving rust rings.
Reply:Definately switch to a #10 lense, I don't care for auto darks myself, I've been using a Jackson flip lense or similar for 15 years and I've never had an issue. (Auto darks die when you least expect them to). Other than that your not doing too bad! You've got the concept, now it's all about technique!Try watching some of Jody's videos at weldingtipsandtricks.com , he has some good stuff on there for beginners and pros. Might speed up the learning curve a little!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Good job, Jeff.I would not weld the two tops together. I would take 2 flat strips to go between them at the front and the back, then use #10 flat head machine bolts through the tops (countersink the holes) and strips. Then you can easily move if you want to later.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:I use those same hinges on a lot of my BBQ pits/smokers. They work great! You sure don't wanna grease them on a pit though because the heat dries the grease out.Home hobbiest:Build all sorts of BBQ pits & smokers (trailer & non)Lincoln 225 Cracker box (antique)O/P torchRedneck tools out the a$$.They get me by!
Reply:Originally Posted by Jeff000I do need a latch, want a way to lock it still. The bottom corner of the door needs slight pressure to close tight. It's cause the bottom hinge I welded slightly crooked, and figured since I only needed slight pressure to get it back straight that it wouldn't be a big deal, I guess I was wrong, lol. I was thinking I would just use something like this
Reply:Looks good for sure. As for the tops, angle would be my choice. How much space is between them ?  You could tack angle to the bottom of one of the tops and then just slide the other top on top of the angle. Drill a couple of countersunk holes and bolt together. The angle will have less give then flat stock. If you do not want to bolt it, then drill holes in one top where it rest on angle and plug weld the top to angle.As for the door, just take a cutting wheel and cut the weld and reset hinge square. Or get some 1 1/2 wide flat stock, clamp to door corner to corner inside  diagonally where it sticks out, clamp and tack. It may work with angle too.
Reply:Great welding job and I like the concept.PlasmaCam CNC cutterLathe and Band SawClamps
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtGood job, Jeff.I would not weld the two tops together. I would take 2 flat strips to go between them at the front and the back, then use #10 flat head machine bolts through the tops (countersink the holes) and strips. Then you can easily move if you want to later.