new to welding question

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so. I picked up a clarke we6490 arc 95e welder for free. I know its not a great welder. I broke a head bolt on my 22re. its flush with the block.my plan was to weld a washer to it and then a bolt to that. the bolt is steel. the block is iron.opinions on if this welder is up to the job ? mind you I don't mind having to continually weld bolt after bolt onto it to remove it. thanks.
Reply:Jody has a video about broken studs/taps on welding tips n tricks com he used tig and built up the stud untill he could get ahold of it with vise grips good luckSent from my iPhone using TapatalkThermal arc 211iCk flex-loc 150 & 130Clamps, saws & grindersHarbor freight 80 amp inverter
Reply:Another value of Jody's technique is he gets the broken stud hot enough to make it somewhat plastic. As in the cooler cast iron block it can't expand, it tries to expand, crushing the rust, then compressing the stud. After it subsequently cools, it shrinks. I doubt stick or wire welders will do this as effectively.
Reply:All different ways to do it, but seen as it is flush with the block, use a washer! Weld by starting in the middle of the stud going out to the washer. Weld a bolt or nut(I prefer a Bolt) onto the washer. As long as the iron stays fairly cool, then the broken stud shrinks when it cools, allowing it to come out fairly easy. Be forewarned You may need to do this several times!
Reply:So I attempted to use the welder, issues. The stick. Wouldn't weld. Any time I touched it to metal it would stick to it. Spark. Then glow red until it scared me due to heat. I have never used a stick welder before but didn't think this was correct. I changed the Amps multiple times. Same effect. Spark. Then stick would glow. Am I doing something wrong here ?I figured the welder is bad. It would leave this tiny little spot weld looking dot behind but nothing more no matter what I tried. I've used a wire feed welder before that's much more powerful and it just didn't seem right.
Reply:Before you do this you need to practice on some scrap metal.   Start your arc by scratching the rod like you were lighting a match, when it initiates an arc adjust your arc length.   You can also try the pecking method which is just what it sounds like.Stick would be my last choice for removing a broken bolt but if that's all ya got then it's better than nothing.   When you get comfortable starting an arc on some scrap metal and are ready to tackle the bolt I would also suggest using a shorter rod by either burning it down or cutting it.  Shorter rod will be easier to control.  Maybe 6-10" long.
Reply:I have a 29 year old Certanium Maintainence Welding Manual. They call for the use of 707, (sorry they don't cross reference to other manufacturers). Use significantly smaller electrode than the stud, or fit a copper tube into the hole to protect the thread. Otherwise, the thread will be protected by the flux. Weld up to flush or higher, place a washer, weld from the center outward to weld the washer on. Place a large nut and weld it on. If it breaks, repeat. The manual warns it may take several repetitions before it comes out. In 1995 you could order directly from Certanium. I bought a bunch of old consumables. 30 year old product, (701) is working very well. The deposit is shiny like stainless, but the manual makes no mention of it being anything but a mild steel rod?
Reply:That 707 sounds a lot like the Rockmount "Brutus" rod. Expensive stuff, but it does work well for extracting bolts.
Reply:Have you tried moving the bolt with a punch or chisel?
Reply:imo as another beginner welder, bring it to a machine shop before you bugger it up too much.shouldn't cost much for them to drill it out on the mill.on the other hand if it's really buggered#1 the machinist will then charge you more or #2 you'll scrap the part.