Are my welds penetrating fully?

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I apologize in advance for the lack of pictures, I'm sitting here in my boxers drinking a hot beverage its too much effort to go out to the garage. Anyway, this has been a concern for a little while now. Are my welds penetrating as far as they should?For example. I butt weld two pieces of 1/8" flat stock. I lay a bead down one side. I flip it over, and while there is extensive discoloration from the heat, the weld itself has not melted the back half. (there is still a distinct seam)For the full strength of the material to be maintained, wouldn't that weld need to carry through the full thickness? Or does the bulk of the weld bead account for it hence why grinding the bead down reduces strength?Im using a hobart 210 MVP, on 110v power for 1/8" and smaller.
Reply:With MIG, it is too easy to make welds that look good but are not as strong as they could be. I would be looking for full penetration on 1/8th...either leave a little gap or turn up the heat. On my HH 190, I have to be careful to not burn through on 1/8th plate. I think you need more heat, and or slow down to let it burn in. Also keep your wire in the front of the puddle.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:You should see the weld penetrate all the way thru and see a slight reinforcement on the back, almost as if there was a weld bead also on that side with no sign of the original cuts.The simplest way is to slightly gap the two pieces. for 1/8", we usually have the students gap the pieces 3/32". You could also bevel the pieces and but them tighter. It's much harder to have the pieces butted tight and weld thru everything in one shot. Doing this with mig means that you have nowhere for the wire to go and you tend to end up with an excessive amount of weld bead if your settings aren't perfect..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Keep in mind that depth of fusion and penetration can be two different things. At least not synonymous anyway. As mentioned, weld joint prep can be a method of obtaining penetration where not entirely possible by brute force and depth of fusion. There are a lot of good reading materials discussing how the two can be the same at times and entirely separate others."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Cut a sample in half and see what's going on.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsCut a sample in half and see what's going on.
Reply:Im using the max voltage possible for 110v. I shouldn't have to go to 220v for 1/8"?Problem is if I slow down to let the weld melt in more, The weld piles up into a slug that looks like a giant blob of a bead.
Reply:.035 wire and C25 ?Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestIm using the max voltage possible for 110v. I shouldn't have to go to 220v for 1/8"?
Reply:I'll rant a bit. Any MIG on 110 and welding 1/8 or over.Full moon. temps between 73 and 76 degrees, zero wind, as little gas flow as possible---just enough to keep it clean, surgically clean cold roll or ground slick hot roll,a 10 lb solid copper ground bolted to the work piece itself, machine plugged into a 30 amp outlet.You're in business. As you fail each variable it all goes downhill.Scale, rust, extension cord, wind, .035 wire, crap clamp,cold outside, dirty nozzle, wrong stickout.The numbers lie. It's a 100 amp machine welding .125 steel. Prep and conditions are everything.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Yeah, I think Burpee is right (never thought I'd say that   )Switch to 230 volt power, and you will have better luck. The rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001 inch...I think you are running a bit cold. Like I said, my HH 190 will burn through 1/8th if I move to slowly. You should have no trouble hitting the back side of that weld on 230 v.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:''Yeah, I think Burpee is right (never thought I'd say that  )''   NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO  !   Ah man, now you did it !
Reply:Do some simple fillet welds testing. http://www.esabna.com/us/en/educatio...g-of-welds.cfm Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961Yeah, I think Burpee is right (never thought I'd say that   )Switch to 230 volt power, and you will have better luck. The rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001 inch...I think you are running a bit cold. Like I said, my HH 190 will burn through 1/8th if I move to slowly. You should have no trouble hitting the back side of that weld on 230 v.
Reply:You don't necessarily have to blow through the back..its all about technique and settings. I have no problem welding down to 22 gauge material with my machine using .030 wire and C25 gas and honestly the door panel says I shouldn't go lower than 20 gauge. My machine is almost the same as yours, just 230v only (no dual voltage set up), and a slightly lower top end. When I let my daughter weld on 1/8th material, she blows through it every time.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Ah man, now you did it !
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsCut a sample in half and see what's going on.
Reply:No!!!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys