|
|
Hello,I recently aquired an older Idealarc 250-250 . There is a bit of backlash in the current setting dial. It might just need a good cleaning or maybe replacement of worn parts. Haven't broke it open yet to see what's inside. Anyway, are repair parts still available from Lincoln for these older units?Sorry I don't have a model or code # handy.Thanks
Reply:you can goto the lincoln web sight and down load parts catalogs, but you might need the serial and or model number and then google the pat numbers, or guess which 1 looks like yours.. depends how old the machine is...
Reply:stumpf welding supplies carries many parts for older machines, call them with a code number and they can probably find what you need... 618-566-4733
Reply:Thanks for the info...
Reply:I purchased a pointer for an Idealarc 250AC/DC awhile back. I think it cost me a whoping 3 bux shipped to our local Praxair. Take Care,John
Reply:wild_horses323 I have a bit of slack in the current dial on my Idealarc 250 as well.I'm not concerned about it as what's important is where the amperage indicator is pointing.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:There made to have slack. I always crank to the right when stopping indicator, theres no innaccuracy from backlash that way. They are a good, but watch the electrical consumption. One of mine has a -C after serial number which stands for the 3 capacitors in it. I put a clamp meter on it, it draws 13 amps when turned on but not welding.
Reply:I have an older idealarc 250 that had a lot of play in the adjuster wheel. If your current wheel wobbles the problem is probably the bushings for the adjuster shaft. I measured the brass bushings that the shaft rides in and actually found some online at an aircraft supply company. I paid around $4. for the pair and it fixed the problem. Sorry I cant recall the part number or supplier. Good luck with yours.
Reply:I replaced the bushings as one was badly worn. Found them at Lincoln for a couple of bucks each. Since the adjustment dial was nearly impossible to move, I removed the shunt, and cleaned the friction pads on the yoke with brake cleaner, re-assembled and tightend down the tension bolts.With everything back together, the dial turns smooth, with some resistance. However when I weld at about the 80 Amp range the dial wil creep. How much tension do I need on the shunt to keep this from happening? In other words, how much resistance should the dial adjustment have. When I bought the welder, the adjustment dial was nearly impossible to turn. "Nearly frozen in place" might be a more accurate term.Does anyone have any suggestions? |
|