If antifreze has pased over a stud in an aluminum block can it pose bonding issues?

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Hi! We are facing a challenge. Drilled through a stud I believe it was Steel nickel plated on and F250 Super-duty  5.4 L triton engine,...while trying to replace manifold studs that were broken off, and had antifreeze run out the hole...Not sure if I drilled to far, or if the blocks holes on driver side in top rear are bored through to the cavity and then threaded...as I tried to use and easy out on the stud it broke off in the hole...Thought we could just weld to the easy out and stud and turn 'em out like the rest...Would not bond at all made four or five attempts with not luck using a wire feed with co2 and another gas...25/75 mix ( to blow the slag off)....Not sure if the antifreeze is causing the problem or if this one last stud is a different alloy like stainless? I thought for sure we could weld to the easy-out, but no luck. I see posts regarding using antifreeze in welding cooling systems, therefor I don't think the antifreeze is the problem...,but I am still not sure. Thought to buy a Rescue Bit and try turning it out again using heat on the block and an other easy out... but Id have to wait for shipping. Anyone have any suggestions or know of suppliers I could find locally who may have  the bit or a solution? Should we try getting wire to weld Stainless?Thanks again, The Motivator,<) Vet, X-Mess Management Specialist Petty Officer Third Class, 3M Maintenance Man, Plastic Man, Emergency Fire Party Member-Flying Squad, Flight Deck tower Communicator from the USS Fort McHenry (LSD-43). New Some good Marines and wound up turning a derogatory Name in to my own nick Name. also Served a year With the Idaho Nat'l. Guard. Once I learn more about the industry I want to patent three models of a cart and either license it for manufacturing or get out of the rat race doing it myself...with a few other projects.
Reply:If you have coolant coming from the head, you hit a water jacket. Either to the sides or top. I'd be more worried about sealing that back up at this point.  And it might just be easier to pull the head.
Reply:X2 on yanking the head. Once you hit water where it's not supposed to be, you are f'ed!My 2003 F350 has the same engine. Replaced the right side manifold 2 years ago. I managed to wind off 5 of the 8 nuts. The rest broke off and had to be drilled and repaired with Heli-coils. Bought a right-angle drill just for the job. Left-hand drill bits were supposed to help. The left side is scheduled for this spring. I am NOT looking forward to it.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:No, you can't weld to an ez-out. Even if you managed to get it to stick (unlikely), they are hard tool steel and will break like glass after welding.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Probably a wet hole, they would have used thread sealant from the factory to seal the threads from the water jacket. If it's stuck due to galvanic corrosion there's not much you can do other than mill it out. If your lucky you can save the threads but often you have to put in an insert.I have drilled out EZ outs and broken taps with a sharp carbide bit or a carbide burr on a die grinder, welding to them rarely works as the metal gets very brittle.
Reply:Originally Posted by mike837goX2 on yanking the head. Once you hit water where it's not supposed to be, you are f'ed!My 2003 F350 has the same engine. Replaced the right side manifold 2 years ago. I managed to wind off 5 of the 8 nuts. The rest broke off and had to be drilled and repaired with Heli-coils. Bought a right-angle drill just for the job. Left-hand drill bits were supposed to help. The left side is scheduled for this spring. I am NOT looking forward to it.
Reply:Originally Posted by fortyonethirtyNo, you can't weld to an ez-out. Even if you managed to get it to stick (unlikely), they are hard tool steel and will break like glass after welding.
Reply:I rarely use ezouts any more, much easier to weld up the broken stud with a nut on top..alot less chance on what you just did....and cheaper.....Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Originally Posted by fortyonethirtyNo, you can't weld to an ez-out. Even if you managed to get it to stick (unlikely), they are hard tool steel and will break like glass after welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanEspecially because the welding heat will harden them well beyond their intended temper.  So they may not be hard as glass until you weld on them.  I've burned taps and ez-outs out with an oxygen stream from a torch.  But I'm not sure how you'd manage that in a wet hole.
Reply:Originally Posted by dieselssDon't forget the heads are aluminum, can't really heat it up that hot.
Reply:I would not worry about the coolant. As said before this is not uncommon and is usually just sealed with something if it be because it is wet or has been opened up with the drilling process.Drill it out as far as you possibly can and work with its removal at this point. From what you have already said I would use the easy out last. you should be able to pick chisel it out after drilling out as far as you can. If that does not work simply drill to your tap size and re tap it. It is not as difficult as it may sound and I have never had this method fail from the first time using it and that says something about how easy it can be.Good luck on the project.
Reply:Didn't know that rlit.
Reply:Die grinder and carbide burr and retapMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Aye, not supposed to have coolant leaking out of any exhaust manifold studs. I did the same job, manifolds were rusted through, so using a cutting torch and chisel, carefully cut all the nuts away from the studs like you would with a nut splitter, remove the manifold then, you have a spud to work with, impacting, soaking and twisting slowly. Most of the studs came out easily but there were 2 or 3 on each side that were a struggle and one was a long long struggle, took a couple days of working it to get it to back out.
Reply:If it was easy the Girl Scouts would be doing the job on any street corner.
Reply:I feel your pain. Unfortunately the Ford 5.4 mod motors in trucks seem to use disposable exhaust manifolds. I literally haven't seen one that HASN'T had at least one side replaced under 100,000 miles. Start the job with fingers crossed, hopefully you don't have to pull the head to finish, but usually it seems that there is always one stud that doesn't want to cooperate within the confines of the engine bay. In the end it would have always been 10 times easier and usually 2-3 times quicker to just pull the head in the first place...RyanMiller Multimatic 200 tig/spool gun/wireless remoteMillermatic 350P, Bernard/XR Python gunsMiller Dynasty 350, Coolmate 3.5 & wireless remoteCK WF1 TIG wire feederMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeOptrel e684Miller Digital EliteMiller Weld-Mask
Reply:Originally Posted by xryanI feel your pain. Unfortunately the Ford 5.4 mod motors in trucks seem to use disposable exhaust manifolds. I literally haven't seen one that HASN'T had at least one side replaced under 100,000 miles. Start the job with fingers crossed, hopefully you don't have to pull the head to finish, but usually it seems that there is always one stud that doesn't want to cooperate within the confines of the engine bay. In the end it would have always been 10 times easier and usually 2-3 times quicker to just pull the head in the first place...