Trying 1/4" Aluminum !!!

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Today I tried tig welding 1/4" aluminum for my day job ( I occasionally get some side work from my day gig). Have next to no experience with aluminum this thick. Things got better as I went.......top is the first. Used. ....HTP 221Amperage. .....210-215Frequency. .......100Balance. .........one set at 73 .......two done at 64Tungsten. .......3/32  1.5%   LanthanatedArgon..........151/8 4043 filler rodNo preheat
Reply:Can you get any more amperage out of your machine? The welds look frosty from the etching, seems to usually be from low amperage.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:220 amps is max. I wire brushed the weld after the welding.  What from the cleaning etch makes it look cold?
Reply:need more power. welding 1/4 cold I would want 250 amps minimum, more would be nice for start up. Can you turn the freq up higher. my ta/am stops at 150 I almost never move it from there except for dirty alum from time to time. Balance I usually run 70-75% If its thicker and towards the end of what my machine is capable of I will make your its really clean and run it as high as 90 % just to get all the juice out of it. Needs to be super clean though. Did you grind a bevel on those pieces or just butt weld them. If you put a bevel you won't need anywhere as much heat on first pass, then turn it up and weld and second quickly after the piece will already be preheated. Helium mix gas will help also.Some my have different option but this is what I find.-The higher the freq the more concentrated the arc = more heat where you want to weld instead of dancing around.-Balance the lower you run it the more cleaning you get but the heat input spends more time jumping back and forth. That's why you see the tungsten ball faster the lower the bal. Higher bal and your putting more heat into the metal with less cleaning. "prep as always is key"-Tungsten at these amps your close to wanting a 1/8 tungsten, I like 2% lanthanated  can't find them around here I have to order them from on the line, With that inverter make the tungsten sharp,sharp,sharp it will help to focus the arc. 1.5% still works just fine tough.-Preheat when you welding something near the limit of the machine a little preheat goes along way. I have full pen welded 1/4 and repaired thick casting with only my ta 185 but it wasn't a sit down and weld situation. With casts I preheat with a oven, torch, gas grill what ever I have handy. "The microwave didn't work out so good though"Kidding of coarse. The 1/4 6061 I did was just goofing around to see if I could do it but lots of cleaning,preheat, and multiple passes were needed and I melted the argon line off my torch in the process. For the time being 1/4 up for me is done with a spool gun till cash flow allows for bigger tig. I would suggest getting really comfortable with thiner aluminum first. Really pay attention to the puddle learn to read it. With alum they're are plenty of times you can put a bead down on something like a fillet weld with little penetration if you don't know what to look for. Pretty much you get a bead barely wetted into the edges with very limited strength and prone to cracking. depending on the joint you either want to see the puddle wet all the way to the corner or keyhole a little. Even on a fillet I like to see it key hole a little.One last thing. Use a smaller filler. A smaller filler will let you keep the puddle hotter. When you learn to feed a smaller rod faster you will get a hotter puddle and better puddle control which make for nicer looking welds.Last edited by KD Welding; 08-21-2014 at 10:33 PM.
Reply:Did you have the torch at an oddball angle to get in there? Usually odd angles for some reason cause the frosted beads. I was told my from instructor when I took my class awhile back that it was gas related.Turn the machine up to 220 amps and stand on the pedal. That machine will output 225-227 amps as shown on the display.I disagree with the above, lower frequency. The 3/32 tungsten will be fine as long as you have less cleaning.If you still don't have enough power, take off some cleaning on the EP to say 90% or 80% and leave the EP alone. This will give it more punch. That independent control on the AC waveform is really a cool feature on that machine. Kind of tricky to set it up, but hold the button all the way on the right until it says EN- or EP and turn the knob to adjust. The AC light starts to flash then so you know you are in the mode. Hold the button for a few seconds again to exit that mode and the AC light will be solid.But I don't think it's really needed. Even the Miller Syncrowave 210 is rated for 1/4" on steel and aluminumTorchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleDid you have the torch at an oddball angle to get in there? Usually odd angles for some reason cause the frosted beads. I was told my from instructor when I took my class awhile back that it was gas related.Turn the machine up to 220 amps and stand on the pedal. That machine will output 225-227 amps as shown on the display.I disagree with the above, lower frequency. The 3/32 tungsten will be fine as long as you have less cleaning.If you still don't have enough power, take off some cleaning on the EP to say 90% or 80% and leave the EP alone. This will give it more punch. That independent control on the AC waveform is really a cool feature on that machine. Kind of tricky to set it up, but hold the button all the way on the right until it says EN- or EP and turn the knob to adjust. The AC light starts to flash then so you know you are in the mode. Hold the button for a few seconds again to exit that mode and the AC light will be solid.But I don't think it's really needed. Even the Miller Syncrowave 210 is rated for 1/4" on steel and aluminum
Reply:Originally Posted by sbchp355So you don't think that running a higher freq helps to concentrate the arc? Not arguing your point may just be a difference in machine but I know with mine it helps. I just feel with aluminum specially when you don't have power to spare it should be as concentrated as possible and left for the aluminum displace it out.
Reply:1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Oscar - yeah that was the one He talked about it the last minute or so.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI can't speak for any inverter as I weld aluminum with my old Airco - but 230 amps at 60hz welded 1/4" for me.If I turned it up more I think it would do even better, but 230 is the top on my mid setting and it was working so I left it.I saw a couple of Jody's videos where he talked about getting more heat in the joint, more freq narrowed the arc, but gave less overall heat.He said he learned from some manufacturer (or something like that) that lower freq put more overall heat into the piece.He was welding on 1" alum, if I recall correctly, and had it at 50hz.
Reply:Time for a cooler for me too - my wp26 two piece torch keeps melting off the argon hose under the handle.My new one piece torch hose is pretty nice so I've been cooling the torch behind the big welder cooling fan more often Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I tried welding with a 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten on 1/4 @ 210 amps, It ate the tungsten after 2 beads . Switched to 1/8 and it did the trick for me,  used 4043 3/32 filler.   Now that was @ 100hz , I am sure it would be easier on 60hz
Reply:Originally Posted by NinjaRayI tried welding with a 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten on 1/4 @ 210 amps, It ate the tungsten after 2 beads . Switched to 1/8 and it did the trick for me,  used 4043 3/32 filler.   Now that was @ 100hz , I am sure it would be easier on 60hz
Reply:Ac tig welding is hard on any air cooled torch especially anything over 150 amps
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveTime for a cooler for me too - my wp26 two piece torch keeps melting off the argon hose under the handle.My new one piece torch hose is pretty nice so I've been cooling the torch behind the big welder cooling fan more often
Reply:Could wrap the hose in some tin foil as a radiant heat shield.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarYou could always go with a two piece power/gas setup with a heavy gauge power cable.  It will help eat up some of the heat from the torch.
Reply:Originally Posted by atgCould wrap the hose in some tin foil as a radiant heat shield.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleThe balance is what will eat your tungsten, not the freq. try the 3/32 again with less cleaning.
Reply:Originally Posted by NinjaRayI tried 80% and 75% cleaning and it still killed it, The tungsten I am using are ebay specials so that could be the problem?   No problems with the e3 stuff.
Reply:Not sure what your trying to do with the 1/4 inch aluminum?Are you welding the two pieces together or running beads?  Your HAZ  is on the wide side so turn the balance up to 75 or higher and notice the changes..I would run more Hertz to get a narrower arc, maybe 120...3/32 tungsten is fine try Blue Lanthinated or even Red Thoriated sharp with a small flat spot...I think your running too large a filler  with the weld amps you have available....Try 1/16 4943 Helium is always nice but in your case I really don't think its necessary since its expensive to set up....   Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock