How can I fix this

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Needs some ideas on how to fix this.  It's a piece of channel they used to form to pour the lental.  Over the years water got in it and froze and thawed bending it down.  Pretty sure it's not needed to hold the wall, so I could cut it out and just leave it out or weld a straight one back in.  What I was really wondering if it would be feasible to heat it a get it to come straight or close and just how to go about it.  Any other solution are more than welcome also.Thanks in addvance. Phil Attached ImagesLast edited by Phil Snyder; 01-06-2016 at 07:19 PM.
Reply:Run away!!! You don't want any part of that, that wall is seriously compromised, look at the cracks in between the cinder blocks!!
Reply:Phil-SnyderIf you'll move the power - I'll tell you for free . . .Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGRun away!!! You don't want any part of that, that wall is seriously compromised, look at the cracks in between the cinder blocks!!
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERROPhil-SnyderIf you'll move the power - I'll tell you for free . . .Opus
Reply:Man that sucks. Wow look at that. Holy cow.If I were you and I am not, I would have to shore it up from the inside before attempting to cut out that rust bucket. That will make it a pain to work on.Even then the upper cinder blocks look to be sagging and they to may have to be dealt with. If you do get it out and the blocks dealt with, I would replace the beam with stainless. But who knows if that is to code. Good luck.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Well I suggest you get a structural engineer to have a looksie.  You WILL need a steel beam to span the opening and support that upper part of the wall.... but I may be wrong. The concrete is already breaking apart there and it will get worse over time. Moisture gets inside, freezes, blows it apart, if there is rebar in there, it rusts which blows it apart even more. You got problems...
Reply:Right way s to take down the wall above the door and relay the block over a new precast lintel. I can't tell in that pict if the roof is supported above the door by that wall or not. If not, it's not a huge deal other than possibly dealing with the roof to wall connection. A good mason could probably punch the existing block to support the upper area, then take out the lintel and relay it all back up..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:As suggested, I'd support load in some convenient way, knock out blocks to make it easier to work, replace beam and then go from there.Doesn't look fun, but looks do-able to me.Good luck to you Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:It looks like a sagging wooden lintel and rotted on the edges. Is it a wooden lintel....I'd first point any of the surrounding bricks on the sides....And then cut the beam from one side to the other straight down center. Once one half is out...you should be able to slip a steel beam in and grout in place where all the bricks are now secured. Then once its cured and dry...do the other half. You would probably have some more pointing to do after that.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonMan that sucks. Wow look at that. Holy cow.If I were you and I am not, I would have to shore it up from the inside before attempting to cut out that rust bucket. That will make it a pain to work on.Even then the upper cinder blocks look to be sagging and they to may have to be dealt with. If you do get it out and the blocks dealt with, I would replace the beam with stainless. But who knows if that is to code. Good luck.
Reply:Cut the outer flange off the channel and drive a piece of heavy angle in, pushing the rest of the channel out. That way you wouldn't lose your support.
Reply:The first thing we need to know is which direction the bar joists run. Parallel to that wall or perpendicular?
Reply:Support the roof from inside. We don't know what holds it up yet. Figure out the best way to support it. Use a rotary hammer to remove the blocks above it, and take out the LINTEL, (a lentil is a bean.)in pieces. Replace the concrete with either a poured in place pre stressed one or a properly engineered square tube. Lay new blocks above. Paint.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BSupport the roof from inside. We don't know what holds it up yet. Figure out the best way to support it. Use a rotary hammer to remove the blocks above it, and take out the LINTEL, (a lentil is a bean.)in pieces. Replace the concrete with either a poured in place pre stressed one or a properly engineered square tube. Lay new blocks above. Paint.
Reply:Originally Posted by theweldorThe first thing we need to know is which direction the bar joists run. Parallel to that wall or perpendicular?
Reply:Ive seen that type of keystone or lintel member before. It was at a ruins or site; speakeasy from prohabition times. Thats why I remember it and thought it a keystone rather than lintel. My armchair opinion : two options, build a new lintel with heavy metal angle and channel and channel king studs if structual , or; cap with channel (14 ga). Capping with 14 ga channel is common in these parts for industrial garage doors and has finished look.Make sure the leak is stopped thoLast edited by Insaneride; 01-06-2016 at 09:13 PM.
Reply:If that is the case just take it apart and replace the lintel with either  another precast one or as suggested a piece of square tube. It is a bit of work, but in two or three days you could have that repaired You could most likely save some of the concrete block also and only have to buy a few that are cracked. Probably the most time comsuming part would be setting up the scaffolding to make the job go much faster.
Reply:The lintel is part of the block now. Its not coming out without major demo IMO. Not practical.
Reply:Originally Posted by Phil SnyderNeeds some ideas on how to fix this.
Reply:Originally Posted by InsanerideThe lintel is part of the block now. Its not coming out without major demo IMO. Not practical.
Reply:Fill the opening, then cut a new opening in the wall somewhere else
Reply:Just thinking out loud...If the upper wall is supported by the concrete beam, and there is apparently a sag in the steel channel which leaves an air gap in the middle.Maybe you could use an hydraulic jack to raise the middle of the channel and then weld a new piece to the face of the channel to keep it straight.
Reply:[QUOTE=Pipeliner;6729441][/QUOTEAre there really wrecking balls shaped like that?An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW...The other way I've seen this done is using a wide flange. Wide flange is used in place of the lintel, then the face is hidden with trimmed 4" block or cinder brick to match. This is typically done when you have heavy loads over a block openingOriginally Posted by Insaneride Building new stuf is always more fun than repairing someones elses broken stuf and doing demo work IMO.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI'll agree about fixing someone elses broken stuff but demo is great fun! Especially with heavy equipment. I wish I had picts of me running the big CAT 80K rubber tire loader on this job.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fnord5Fill the opening, then cut a new opening in the wall somewhere else
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI looked it up one time - the highest job satisfaction rating went to Heavy Equipment Demolition
Reply:Here's a pretty good video on lintels.
Reply:I think I would just leave it alone. If you are worried, have an engineer look at it. Do you have the original plans for the building? It would be good to know what kind of reinforcing is inside the lintel.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Originally Posted by InsanerideI stand corrected. Again. DSW, that building didnt look that old. Demo a perfectly working building  Looks fun tho. I sure could have used some of that metal roofing.Phil Snyder, I think your question was: can it be heat shrunk to look straight/level?  I would think yes but if the concrete spall's inside the  lentil from heat , it will never be the same.From what you describe, it sounds like the metal only helped during the pour and the cement has rebar in the lentil so the bent metal only traps water and does nothing to hold up the header. Just my armchair opinion.
Reply:I'd agree with Rob, cut one flange side off the channel, drive it out with a piece of 4x4x1/4 angle iron, add a second angle iron from the other side and weld the iron together, then put a couple anchor bolts in there, tack weld the bottom flanges and grout it in place.
Reply:have a midnight fire....................insurance is good for rebuilding.............Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Looks fine, leave it.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by InsanerideDSW, that building didnt look that old. Demo a perfectly working building  Looks fun tho. I sure could have used some of that metal roofing..