Cutting 11ga and 1/8" plate

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If you don't have a torch or plasma cutter, how do you cut your steel?  How thick can you cut?
Reply:Hello tigerfish, one possibility is to use an abrasive blade on a wormdrive saw or other type of circular saw, yet this would be rather slow and noisy and dirty, etc. There are cut-off wheels that can be used on various size angle grinders and air cut-off tools. Another possibility is to use a carbide blade with as many teeth on it as possible for the above types of circular saws (I wouldn't recommend this particular choice for safety reasons, although it has been done by many), they also make special saws with carbide blades specifically for cutting steel. The plasma is really the best possible choice for speed, reduced distortion, and ease of application. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:The plasma wont give you a machined perfect edge like the saw, grinder or shear.(darn close though) The plasma is fast but if you tilt it you have imperfections in the edge..... I can cut with a circular saw (worm drive)straighter, cleaner than the plasma.... and there is no grinding like with the plasma  cut edge even on 16 Ga. I find the saw to look as if it was sheered and much better cut even though I spent a grand on my plasma it does not do a better job maybe faster but not cleaner maybe if it were on a table and machine torch but not by hand.....maybe just get the metal suppliers to shear cut your sheet if economical or critical on squared clean edges ???? just my Thoughts.....                There is another thread on this subject if you go looking there is a lot of info on that one....Lincoln 225 Tombstone,Miller Big 20,Hobart 180,150' Argon,A/D hobart hood 22 Ton Log splitter,79 F350 dump eats 4.75 TONS and still turns cutters,grinders,And a  Hypertherm POWERMAX 30
Reply:Way back when.I have used a jigsaw to cut up to 1/8" steel, it took all day and a lot of blades to get it done, but it worked.Then I graduated to an abrasive blade on my circular saw, faster, but it eventually wore the saw out!I was cutting mostly angle and box steel, so I graduated to a 14" cut off saw, still have it, but I don't use it much anymore, not since I bought my Hypertherm PM 600 and a good horizontal band saw! #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Another thing you can use if you pocket can afford it is a Porta Band. I have two of them one I bought used , and one I bought new. There are Milwaukee.I usually use this for angle and plate that is not too wide. Again you can get a clean cut and straight if you know how to use it.
Reply:Before I had a plasma, I would cut that in a bandsaw.The trick (which worked best on steels that are otherwise hard to cut), was to use a very worn out blade, (ideally, re-welded with the teeth backwards, or simply turned around, or something REALLY fine) under moderate to heavy feed pressure.The blade would locally heat the steel it was in contact with from friction, and after a while, it would start to cut like a torch.  By the time the same part of the blade came back around, it had long been cool, so the blade never got too hot, but the part would have sparks flying off it.The cut would be really clean, and surprisingly fast (once it got started), with no warping whatsoever (the heat is way too localized)You know, there are shears that will handle 1/8 mild.  The Beverly B3 will handle 10 gauge stainless (or 3/16"), and the B2 will handle 10 gauge mild, but it will set you back as much as an inexpensive plasma, AND, even if the shears are throatless, they'll still curl one side of the cut, and have a FAR more limited radius than you can do with plasma.
Reply:Tiger Fish,Although not ideal, it is a "low cost" solution and works well.Before I got the Milwaukee Metal Cut Saw (8" blade), I used a cheap skilsaw (Skil, bought at HD for $49.00--+ $5.00 for extended warranty--ha ha) and the 7 1/4" Bullet carbide blade.  (Bullet Industries)  Blade runs about $10.Cuts up to 1/4" very nicely.  No additional edge prep required.  Straight cuts only though.Make sure you wear gloves, safety glasses, and preferably a full face shield cause the saw will throw hot steel slivers.I use a 2'x2"x1/4" stick of angle aluminum as my straighedge.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Sait wheels arn't bad but after going through about ~100 of them from our last order im ready to go back to our Camel grinding wheels.  .040 thick, cut much, MUCH, smoother than the sait's and throw a lot less grit when they start to break down.They probably last about the same, but being thinner they have more forgiveness in their cuts.  Ive had them bent on some hard angles and gotten them completely bound up a few times and never had one break.  Another problems I had with the saits is the metal ring in the center popping out, also not an issue with the CGW's.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:how about a o/a?  use a 00 or a 000 tip and cut away.  it is fast, easy, and with a light touch of a grinder you won't be able to tell if it was a factory edge or not.
Reply:many methods already given. How thick can you go? I've cut 2" diameter pins  to get hydraulic cyls out of a machine when the pins seized and nothing else would work. Not the quickest method but anywhere is within walking distance if you got the time.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott Younghow about a o/a?  use a 00 or a 000 tip and cut away.  it is fast, easy, and with a light touch of a grinder you won't be able to tell if it was a factory edge or not.
Reply:Haven't posted in a while, but here is what I used till I got my plasma cutter.  These were only good for up to 1/8" plate.  Don't know if you can still buy them or not, but it might be worth a shot to check with your LWS.  These fit my Victor Journeyman torch.  They are called Drag Tips.  1 hole for the flame and 1 hole for the oxygen.  Take a little practice, but the warpage on thinner plate is worth it.Butch W.Sorry - I missed the part about not having a torch.  My speed reading skills failed me again.... Attached ImagesLast edited by H2Os50; 08-23-2009 at 12:54 PM.Butch W.Lincoln 180C MIGThermalArc TA 185 - WP-20 TorchMiller 375 X-treme Plasma CutterVictor Journeyman O/A Set
Reply:Soon I would like to get a metal shear and brake. Been there done that.The thing I hate about cutting with grinders and cut off wheels, the fine micro metal dust gets in your lungs and equiptment. It makes a mess.I know we should wear dust mask but it dont happen all the time depending on the situation. Back in the day when I would do heavy grinding, I noticed I would spit up blood afterwards. I believe the fine dust would get in my intestines and cut the linings.I'm sure it's not good for you. Everyone needs iron in there body but not that much!THE OLDER I GET! THE  SMARTER MY DAD WAS!Thermal Arc 185 inverter Tig welderABITIG 26  tig torchLotus foot pedalLincoln 225 stick welderClark 185SG Mig spoolgunwelderVictor torch/regulatorsHF36" shear,bender,roller.
Reply:butch i use to have one of those tips.  some one borrowed it and i have wanted to get another.  what is the tip number on it.
Reply:Originally Posted by H2Os50Haven't posted in a while, but here is what I used till I got my plasma cutter.  These were only good for up to 1/8" plate.  Don't know if you can still buy them or not, but it might be worth a shot to check with your LWS.  These fit my Victor Journeyman torch.  They are called Drag Tips.  1 hole for the flame and 1 hole for the oxygen.  Take a little practice, but the warpage on thinner plate is worth it.Butch W.Sorry - I missed the part about not having a torch.  My speed reading skills failed me again....
Reply:butch i found it on thermadyne's - victor's- website.
Reply:The only numbers/letters I can see are Victor 1-1-110 (#1 size).  I have seen them in #2 and #3 sizes also.Butch W.Butch W.Lincoln 180C MIGThermalArc TA 185 - WP-20 TorchMiller 375 X-treme Plasma CutterVictor Journeyman O/A Set
Reply:I have one of those tips, but never was able to use it correctly.  Do you push or pull it? Does the solid step go towards the metal?  Can some one post picks on how to use this tip?Sorry for the hijack.
Reply:it is a drag tip.  you go in the direction of the preheat.  there is one preheat and one cutting hole.
Reply:I dragged this thread back out because I've been thinking of getting some 0.120" wall square tubing and some 11ga plate for building boxes. (Possibly a noob attempt at over-simplification.  )Without a torch or plasma setup (or much of anything else for tools and equipment), I was thinking the discs mentioned above could be used to cut the tubing to length, going around it one side at a time. As Tresi said, "Anywhere is within walking distance if you got the time." The outside corners of the tubing look a little more rounded than the insides, so if all I can get is square corners on the pieces of plate (sheet) for the tops and bottoms of the boxes by using the discs, so be it. (Or radius them off with the grinder?  )The above all depends on whether I can find two sizes of tubing that have the right inside and outside dimensions to "telescope" without being too much of a slop fit. (My project is starting to look like it could be its own thread.)