New 100 yr old lathe

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Well I got my atlas lathe going after 2 years of collecting parts and letting it sit in pieces. And know I wanted another one to rebuild since the rebuild was alot more fun than I ever expected. So I bought the next project lathe a Barnes with 13 inch swing and an 8 foot bed. all the research I have done puts it at about 100 years old. Its in not to bad of shape but definitely needs work. Now for the welding part. I have 2 weld repairs needed on it (so far). The first one is to weld a pad onto the bottom of one of the cast legs. one is broken off and missing. a pretty simple fix to fab up a new one. The second fix it on the apron part of it is crack looks like it may have either been damaged in use some how or from running it with a bolt missing and the gears torquing on it when it wasn't supported properly. Both repairs are in very old cast. I am not sure of the best method for welding these repair I don't do much wleding on 100 year old cast . I have tig, stick, mig, O/A at my disposal. How ever I currently only set up for cutting with the O/A. What would the best method and proses be for welding this. I'm not a huge fan of brazing mostly because I want the repairs to be as unnoticeable as possible. I was thinking tig but am unsure of what filler to use. Something with Ni in it I assume. Also not sure of whats needed as far as preheat, post heat or if it's needed at all.It there anything special I should watch for when welding on the new foot as it will be mild steel welded to cast? Is it any different from welding cast to cast?Thanks for all the help and I will post pictures soon,Josh
Reply:Here is the crack I was asking about. I really hope someone can offer some in site into what I should do to repair it.
Reply:I can't help with the repairs but I sure hope to see more of this build.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mega Arc 5040DDWell I got my atlas lathe going after 2 years of collecting parts and letting it sit in pieces. And know I wanted another one to rebuild since the rebuild was alot more fun than I ever expected. So I bought the next project lathe a Barnes with 13 inch swing and an 8 foot bed. all the research I have done puts it at about 100 years old. Its in not to bad of shape but definitely needs work. Now for the welding part. I have 2 weld repairs needed on it (so far). The first one is to weld a pad onto the bottom of one of the cast legs. one is broken off and missing. a pretty simple fix to fab up a new one. The second fix it on the apron part of it is crack looks like it may have either been damaged in use some how or from running it with a bolt missing and the gears torquing on it when it wasn't supported properly. Both repairs are in very old cast. I am not sure of the best method for welding these repair I don't do much wleding on 100 year old cast . I have tig, stick, mig, O/A at my disposal. How ever I currently only set up for cutting with the O/A. What would the best method and proses be for welding this. I'm not a huge fan of brazing mostly because I want the repairs to be as unnoticeable as possible. I was thinking tig but am unsure of what filler to use. Something with Ni in it I assume. Also not sure of whats needed as far as preheat, post heat or if it's needed at all.It there anything special I should watch for when welding on the new foot as it will be mild steel welded to cast? Is it any different from welding cast to cast?Thanks for all the help and I will post pictures soon,Josh
Reply:weldermikeI wish I was closer that would be something I would be very interested in. Sadly I am in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.tnjindI will keep posting progress as I go. I have been taking tons of pictures so tonight I will sit down and post them and let people know where I am at.
Reply:Ah too bad MegaArc, would be nice to help a forum guy out, and know it went to a good home. Here's some pics any way bud.  Attached ImagesI hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:That is very nice and you seem to have some nice accessories for it as well. QCTP and a steady rest. Very nice wish I was a lot closer.
Reply:Yeah bud thats a little too far. Best of luck with your project, i'll be following. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Well I got to a point where I need some advice tonight. I am not sure at all how to remove the spindle from the head stock on this lathe. The bushing on the right has a cap held on by 2 bolts. Thats pretty straight forward but the bushing on the left is what has me stumped. I see a tiny set screw about mid way up the side of the journal and the bushing looks to be threaded or at least the part of it behind the journal. I know there is supposed to be some what of adjusting the end play in the spindle is that what the threads are for? I don't want to damage the spindle so I am really hoping there is some one on this site who has taken a Barnes headstock apart and can offer some guidance.On a weird but positive note I began cleaning and dismantling the compound and discovered that the screw as virtually no play it isn't loose in the threads at all. When I saw that the female thread was cut right into part of the casting and that it didn't have a separate nut or bras nut I was sure it was going to be completely worn out and sloppy. But much to my surprise it wasn't at all. Not sure how it's not given its age and the condition of some of the other parts.
Reply:Well the head stock came apart perfectly and very easily without any problems. Thats the good news the bad news is I got the cross feed apart and wasn't as luck as I was with the compound feed. The cross feed screw and nut have a lot of play in them. I measured the screw and the OD is .600" and 6 threads per inch. bit it doesn't quite look like acme thread. Maybe this is because of the pitch being so course compared to most acme thread I have seen. T bottom of the threads kind of almost look rounded almost like a ball thread. Does anyone know for sure what thread type and size was used on these lathes?To fix my problem I am thinking about turning a new nut on my atlas to match the screw. I thought this would be easier that making a new screw. Any thoughts on this? is there a better way to fix or solve the problem?
Reply:weldermike,Would you happen to have a set of change gears for that atlas?
Reply:Originally Posted by Mega Arc 5040DDweldermike,Would you happen to have a set of change gears for that atlas?
Reply:This is what I found for ya bud, wasn't sure what you meant by change gears but i knew I may have had what you were looking for. Its a set of 10 gears for an ATLAS lathe, and the smallest is 24tooth, and the biggest is 54tooth. Hope it's what you were looking for. Attached ImagesI hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:weldermike PM sent
Reply:I PMed you back from my phone but sometimes they dont go through. But yes I'd be willing to help ya.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:http://www.locknstitch.com/Metal_Stitching.htmRegarding your cracked cast part I've seen this mentioned on this or another forum.  All I can offer up for you. Good Luck!
Reply:Thanks for the link it's an interesting article and method. Unfortunately I don't believe it will work for me because of the crack being through the side of a bolt hole.
Reply:Hi Mega, been down that path you are treading a couple of times, had to rebuild an old Colchester Bantam lathe circa 1920/30 some 20 years back. from the ground up total.Working with old iron is just about the same as with new, cast is cast.The secret I found was to preheat well and use arc with rods specified for cast iron, and get the part really hot after welding and bury in ashes or chalk to allow slow cooling.....this will prevent any chilling and hardening of the cast.I got the welding rods from our maintenance department when I was still working, (retired now), so can't say what the grade was.Currently I have been using a Multiplaz 3500 plasma welder for cast iron repair and welding work, and with this method I also use plain steel welding rods to fill in holes and dings in iron work.......just making sure the after cooling is slow...very important if you want to file finish the weld area....grinding isn't a problem, but I don't like hard areas in machinery parts made from cast iron.With the crack in your lathe saddle apron, I would Vee out the crack DEEPLY, both sides, with an angle grinder, drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it going further, and then heat the whole apron casting  really hot and arc weld it with the afore mentioned method and rods.Provided you make proper arangements to slow cool after welding you shouldn't have any problems.I have also used Vermiculite for the cooling process......it's a good insulator  and can take heat without a problem.The Vermiculite was obtained from a garden product supplier, as it's used as a soil drainage improver.BTW, grind the iron outside, or else you'll have black soot like residue EVERYWHERE..... preferably on a grassy area or when it rains everything turns to orange, especially the concrete.Ian.Last edited by puddytat; 05-01-2012 at 09:34 PM.
Reply:I picked up some ni55 welding rods the other day and was lucky enough that my lws had a damaged can so he sold me a pound for $20 cash for their slush fund instead of the regular $65/lb price. I have heard a lot about heating the part and letting it slow cool after welding. I have also heard a lot about welding it only about an inch at a time and waiting until it can be touched with the bare hand and then welding another inch and so on. I am not sure what way I am going to do it yet. My concern with heating it is I don't want the part to warp at all. I probably won't get to weld it until the weekend so I have some time to decide.
Reply:I got the front side welded this after noon and it looks like bird poop. I tried everything and every setting under the sun on scrap before starting. It looks bad but I believe it is fused good and strong so hopefully after I blend it out it will look ok. I blew through and made about a 1/4" hole into the threaded hole turns out the metal was about 1/16" thick where the crack lined up with the bolt hole. I got it filled and hopefully I won't have to much trouble cleaning out the threads. I hope the back side goes in a little nicer than the front. Or at least looks a lot nicer since it won't get ground done at all. I don't think
Reply:So things didn't go as well as I thought with the cast repair. My first time welding cast with nickle rods was a fail lots of tiny pin holes that look like crap and when I chased the threads of the bolt hole after the repair broke out because it is so thin. The top part where it is cracked is about 1/16" thick only. At this point it is mostly cosmetic the repair went a lot better on the back side where it is thicker and the weld didn't get buffed down. I ab pretty sure that mechanically it will hold fine there is lots of thread in the hole and it is only the top little bit where it is broken that the threads don't fully rap around the bolt. I hope that last part makes some since.So my main concerns are that I don't want where it is broken at the top to spread over time once its back together and in use. And It looks like crap both the pin holes and the broken part at the top. What can I do? I have almost pulled my hair out to the point of considering the unthinkable.......JB weld please some one stop me before I convince my self that maybe its not the worst idea in the world. Please someone help. Anyone help before I become that guy that everyone whispers about as I walk by. The welder who resorted to using JB weld. I mean really is it such a bad idea I am painting it afterAnd just for reference the bolt hole that you can kind of make out in the picture is 3/8" wide an from the top to the bottom of the broken part is about 3/4"
Reply:Sent you a PM bud.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys