TIG questions...

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I just picked up a Lincoln Square Wave 175 stick/TIG machine, and need to get it ready to weld aluminum. I've never TIG welded aluminum, but have TIG'd a decent amount of mild steel with my Lincoln Invertec V-250s. The torch with the Square Wave is a Weldcraft WP-9F, which I believe is a little bit smaller than the torch with my Invertec (so I am not sure if my torch parts will interchange). I know I need a back cap, but I am not sure which nozzles I need (or possibly even collets/bodies).My plan is to start off practicing with 1/16-1/8" aluminum (I believe 1/8" is the max with this machine), what type electrodes will I need? Any other suggestions on what I need to order? Thanks!
Reply:Start off?  More like 1/16"-1/8" is the limit!    Toss that 9 torch aside and leave it for steel.  It will get stupid hot real quick when doing any AC welding.  You need a 17 at minimum to keep a decent comfort level.  2%La tungsten 3/32" or 1/8" nice and sharp to a point, and just the tiniest flat.  Torch nozzle anywhere from 6-10 works great.  15-20 CFH.  Order a tig finger because the aluminum will get so hot so fast next to the weld bead that you will fry your torch hand as you drag it across the piece.  Don't forget to practice tacking with a lot of amperage and a 1-2mm arc length.  Slow-n-low works great for smoking pork or brisket, but it will have you pulling your hair out if attempting to tack like that on aluminum.  Once tacked, start out hot, get the puddle in less than 2sec, then ease off as you scoot on down the joint.  Which reminds me, don't use little microscopic 1" W x 6" L pieces of aluminum to practice on.  Trust me. Just posted this on another welding forum for someone wanting to tack 18ga aluminum box for the outside corner joints:Make the edges touch.set the machine to ~130A.Use the equivalent of 65-75% EN (not sure what the settings on your machine mean, but do cross reference to make sure you are using the correct amount of percentage of EN).  (The cleaner the aluminum, the more EN you can use which makes better use of the current setting for producing the tack weld we're looking for)Sharp 1/16" - 3/32" tungsten with a 3x-diameter taper.  2%La works best.Make sure the tungsten is pointed right at the middle of the joint 1-2mm away <---super important!!!, not towards one plate nor the other, otherwise you'll just end up with exactly where you were at before.  You need to be congnizant of these kinds of things all the time since you're beginning with aluminum.Floor the Pedal.  Not slowly.  As fast as you can move your foot, literally.As soon as the arc starts, as in immediately, let off the foot pedal. The goal is:  the fastest arc strike you can manage, but NOT ramping up slowly, an instant ON/OFF blast.You should see a nice clean circular tack about 3/32"-1/8" across (diameter) [2.4-3.2mm]Both me and MnDave were toying with this kind of tacking, and it works great if you follow the correct steps.  If you cannot manage "touching" fit-up, cut a 3-5mm snippet of Al tig rod of large enough diameter so that it "sits" in the gap that you shouldn't have in the first place(!)  :evil:  :mrgreen: Then give it a whirl with the above described steps.  You will likely need to play around with the current, and of course do this on scrap first(!).16ga, 1/2" angle channel.  If the edges start pulling away like on the two left-most tacks, then you didn't use enough current.  You can still save it by using a piece of 1/16" filler and jam it in the crevice, then bump up the amps about 30-40 more than what you previously used.  Then go at it again according to the above steps.Last edited by Oscar; 11-26-2014 at 08:05 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:I used 3/32" 2% lanthanated on my tig 175. I used a gas lens and #7 cup on most materials. The torch will get hot if you are running beads on 1/8" aluminum. Just be aware of the machine's duty cycle.Mike ZanconatoZanconato Custom Cycles @mzank on Instagram
Reply:I'm with Oscar. Get a good sized sheet and fill it with beads. I went through a lot of wire filling 12" square sheets. Boring as hell after a while. Great practice though.Mike ZanconatoZanconato Custom Cycles @mzank on Instagram
Reply:Originally Posted by zankI'm with Oscar. Get a good sized sheet and fill it with beads. I went through a lot of wire filling 12" square sheets. Boring as hell after a while. Great practice though.
Reply:Its after 7 zippy, make with the answer so i can claim my prize. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Wrong thread....i'm such a dlck. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeWrong thread....i'm such a dlck.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarStart off?  More like 1/16"-1/8" is the limit!    Toss that 9 torch aside and leave it for steel.  It will get stupid hot real quick when doing any AC welding.  You need a 17 at minimum to keep a decent comfort level.  2%La tungsten 3/32" or 1/8" nice and sharp to a point, and just the tiniest flat.  Torch nozzle anywhere from 6-10 works great.  15-20 CFH.  Order a tig finger because the aluminum will get so hot so fast next to the weld bead that you will fry your torch hand as you drag it across the piece.  Don't forget to practice tacking with a lot of amperage and a 1-2mm arc length.  Slow-n-low works great for smoking pork or brisket, but it will have you pulling your hair out if attempting to tack like that on aluminum.  Once tacked, start out hot, get the puddle in less than 2sec, then ease off as you scoot on down the joint.  Which reminds me, don't use little microscopic 1" W x 6" L pieces of aluminum to practice on.  Trust me. Just posted this on another welding forum for someone wanting to tack 18ga aluminum box for the outside corner joints:Make the edges touch.set the machine to ~130A.Use the equivalent of 65-75% EN (not sure what the settings on your machine mean, but do cross reference to make sure you are using the correct amount of percentage of EN).  (The cleaner the aluminum, the more EN you can use which makes better use of the current setting for producing the tack weld we're looking for)Sharp 1/16" - 3/32" tungsten with a 3x-diameter taper.  2%La works best.Make sure the tungsten is pointed right at the middle of the joint 1-2mm away <---super important!!!, not towards one plate nor the other, otherwise you'll just end up with exactly where you were at before.  You need to be congnizant of these kinds of things all the time since you're beginning with aluminum.Floor the Pedal.  Not slowly.  As fast as you can move your foot, literally.As soon as the arc starts, as in immediately, let off the foot pedal. The goal is:  the fastest arc strike you can manage, but NOT ramping up slowly, an instant ON/OFF blast.You should see a nice clean circular tack about 3/32"-1/8" across (diameter) [2.4-3.2mm]Both me and MnDave were toying with this kind of tacking, and it works great if you follow the correct steps.  If you cannot manage "touching" fit-up, cut a 3-5mm snippet of Al tig rod of large enough diameter so that it "sits" in the gap that you shouldn't have in the first place(!)  :evil:  :mrgreen: Then give it a whirl with the above described steps.  You will likely need to play around with the current, and of course do this on scrap first(!).16ga, 1/2" angle channel.  If the edges start pulling away like on the two left-most tacks, then you didn't use enough current.  You can still save it by using a piece of 1/16" filler and jam it in the crevice, then bump up the amps about 30-40 more than what you previously used.  Then go at it again according to the above steps.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI wish there was a like button on this forum!
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeWrong thread....i'm such a dlck.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelI think you found something we can all agree upon!
Reply:I may be able to swap over and use my other torch off the Invertec, but I would at least like to get this torch set up for occasional use.  Any suggestions on the which 2% lanthiated tungsten electrodes to order?  Would I be better off starting with 3/32 or 1/8"?  Which collets and cups should I snag?
Reply:Both will work, but one will ball less at the tip due to being able to handle more current.  How much it will ball depends on just too many factors we cannot control on this end.  Order both and see which one you like best.  They're not exactly "bank-breakers" if you're doing aluminum TIG work.  A medium gas lens collet body with a #8 cup is what I would use. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:I checked my other TIG torch today, its a -17 style torch.  I looked through my extra stuff, and I have a pretty good assortment of nozzles and a back cap, not sure if it will work with the WP-9 torches.  I also have some black marked tungsten, not sure what it is, and a pack of 3/32 2% ceriated tungsten.
Reply:I think 3/32 will match the capacity of the machine.
Reply:Will the 2% ceriated be OK for aluminum?
Reply:Originally Posted by Jason280Will the 2% ceriated be OK for aluminum?