Weldanpower-removing front panel need help

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Hi. I hadn't meant to, but now I am trying to get the front panel off. Needed to change out a couple of things, and figured it would be easier with the panel off. So, I have gotten the knobs off. The two screws at the bottom. The electrical outlets are either removed or wires disconnected. The switches and the choke cable. the front panel nameplate(with the printing for amps, current, etc) that is behind the knobs. Even got the nut off the 0-10 knob. Everything is off except the four nuts that attach the amp/polarity switches mounting panel inside of the welder on to the front panel. These are in a counter sink/depression and I can't get any tool on them. I tried turning the screws I could get to on the inside, but the slots just want to give/open up more(sorry, that is the best I can describe them).Since I am this far taking it apart, I would like to get the panel off, and then at least get it nice and repainted, and install new outlets and switches. Any suggestions? I thought of just cutting the spacers/screws, but then I saw that the spacers seem to be part of the front panel itself, so that isn't such a good idea. Thanks,RussRIP Mallory, we miss you.
Reply:should be able to turn the bolt from the switch side and hold the nut with  pliers.Lock washer under the nut.
Reply:You are correct - the stand-offs are welded to the front panel as you can see in the attached.It'll be a bit of a pain but if you can't get the screws out as it is, I would mark the leads on the switch (photos don't hurt either) and disconnect them leaving the switch on the panel that once off you'll be able to get at the screws better.  Just a thought.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Thanks. I have thought of that, just not sure I want to go that far. Not sure how the leads are attached, I mean I can tell they go through a loop, but is it a crimped connection? I am already getting to the point where I am worried that I have taken it too far apart. Although now that I know the screws are bad I will regret it if I don't replace them. I think bolts would be better than screws. Realistically, I need to replace all the hardware. The stuff on this is pretty rusted.Wondering if a thin walled socket would work on the nuts, but I don't have any. Just noticed that yours is a lot different than mine. Maybe it is the year or a difference in models. Mine has 4 standoffs, and the 115 and 220 outlets go on the bottom of the panel, as do the start button and the 2 toggle switches and the choke cable and amp meter.Have you ever thought about writing a "how to rebuild your Lincoln Weldanpower"? I know I would buy one. Thanks,RussRIP Mallory, we miss you.
Reply:Originally Posted by ccawgcshould be able to turn the bolt from the switch side and hold the nut with  pliers.Lock washer under the nut.
Reply:The shot of the front panel is of a Weldanpower 150 but I posted the photo to show the welded stand-offs.The switch leads are at least crimped and should be soldered IMO.  You can see how they're attacched in Ken Dennis' W&P 225 rebuild thread http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...er+225&page=13 in posts #310 & #311.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:The switches should be held on by nuts that are inside of the depressions on the front of the panel, remove the nuts and the switches will be removed from the inside, then the panel should come off if you have removed all the screws from the front outside!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:Ken, that is the problem. I can't get any tool to grab onto the nuts enough to turn them. Maybe I just need to try it again another time, maybe have better luck. Or else just do what I can to the panel with it still attached. Or maybe I just need to quit trying not to damage the panel and use force to get a socket on?Thanks,RussLast edited by russ69coupe; 08-30-2010 at 06:37 PM.RIP Mallory, we miss you.
Reply:Thanks, Duane. I knew I had seen those pictures somewhere, but I couldn't remember where. What would you recommend using to solder them? I don't think my little 40ish watt soldering iron will even get the wires hot. Propane torch might work, but I would have to make sure to use a heat sink and not hit any neighboring wires. But something is screaming in the back of my head "NO!!!" :-)RussRIP Mallory, we miss you.
Reply:What I used was a 1/4" drive deep well socket and ratchet, it was either a 3/8" or 7/16" or something like that!#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:I finally got it off. Was able to get 3 of the nuts off with a $1.97 pair of locking pliers I got tonight at Walmart. I ended up cutting the last one. I found that the standoffs on this one are not part of the front panel. They are just a spacer. I'll have to take a picture later I suppose. the one I ended up cutting I used a hacksaw and didn't even cut through the stand off completely. Been told I can use the glass beader at work, so I will be able to get this panel nice and clean at least. Thanks for the help.RussRIP Mallory, we miss you.