Welding .060 and thinner stainless

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Hey guys, so I've been Tig welding for probably close to 5 years now, and my only roadblock right now is welding extremely thin to extremely thin stainless together, I either over heat it, have burn though or plain burn though...I'm welding with a Syncrowave 200, the big box one, older model, 1/16" tungsten, number 6 cup, maybe 15 scfm argon,  machine set to 60 amps, hi freq on start, no pulse (no option) What am I doing wrong?Miller Spoolmate 200 w/t S-52 WirefeederMM 211'09 Miller Trailblazer 302
Reply:You gotta have the "Start Amps" knob turned way down before starting the arc...That way you don't get instant 60 or the whatever amps the second you hit the pedal...Start s...l...o...w...  and then give it enough pedal to do what you want...Takes time and much practice....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ian DuffinHey guys, so I've been Tig welding for probably close to 5 years now, and my only roadblock right now is welding extremely thin to extremely thin stainless together, I either over heat it, have burn though or plain burn though...I'm welding with a Syncrowave 200, the big box one, older model, 1/16" tungsten, number 6 cup, maybe 15 scfm argon,  machine set to 60 amps, hi freq on start, no pulse (no option) What am I doing wrong?
Reply:Hello Ian Duffin, to go along with the other suggestions, heat sinks/backing bars can be a great help to aid with controlling burn-through and distortion issues on the thin stuff. Clean copper or aluminum that is tightly clamped to the back of your weld joint should help a bunch, if you have access to do that. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Strike the arc on a bit of copper (thicker than the stainless) and let the arc even out on the thick copper before moving onto the thinner stainless.
Reply:this is what es[ATTACH=CONFIG]923841[/ATTACH this is what eavald was taking about. This is your best friend on thin stuff or small stuff that gets hot fast. Or clamp aluminum on the back side
Reply:Yeah I've used backing plates before, but on the project I'm working on there is no way to get a plate in there!It's a boiler tube and cone assembly, it's .060 at best, .030 where it has been burned down over time, and it's perforated to the point where the perforation bands act as heat sinks, pulling away my heat from the puddle and melting the bands...It's a ****ty project, haha but thanks for the feedback guys!