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On the 13th, Ill be taking my 6G pipe certification test. 6in pipe; 3/32 gap; 3/32 landing. 3/32 6010 root; 3/32 1/8 7018 fill/cover. Grinding is allowed. No downhill welding.This is the end of my 2nd semester of pipe welding. I have one more class to try to get this down (on the 6th). Luckily, I should be able to come in early and stay late so I should have plenty of time.I am semi-confident in my root pass (struggling a bit with consistency but the teacher says it is good), I feel good about my hot and intermediate passes, but I am struggling with my cover/final passes for reasons that I cant quite figure out.My first issue on my cover pass, I keep getting porosity on the bottom of my pipe, mainly where I start my passes to go up each side of the pipe.Maybe this diagram will help explain it better.After every pass, I hit it with a wirewheel and check for any slag along the edges, which I then use a pick or grinder to get out. I am very confident that this is not a cleaning issue and I dont have any porosity issues elsewhere on my pipe.For this, I usually run the 1/8'' 7018 at about 115-120 amps. I always strike an arc, long arc away from the pipe to let the rod heat up for a few seconds, and then go to work. My instructor told me to try to start slightly farther ahead of where I want the weld to be, move quickly when overhead until I start to get into vertical position. I have tried to switch up my angle a bit but nothing Ive tried has helped much. I am guessing that I may be long arc-ing a bit too much at the start of the pass, but its hard to tell.Any ideas or tips?-------My second issue I believe this will just take more practice, but maybe someone can help. My cover pass seems very sloppy overall. I just cant seem to get it to do what I want. I guess the main problem is just keeping each stringer neat and uniformed, but mine just looks like garbage to me.I dont have this issue on flat plate in any postion only with pipe. So again I ask, any tips or is this really just something that takes more practice? I think Ill take a piece of scrap pipe and just go around it several times for practice next class as well.
Reply:Are you doing the cap in beads. At our company a 2g and 5g covers you for a 6g
Reply:Originally Posted by jbriggs33I am guessing that I may be long arc-ing a bit too much at the start of the pass.
Reply:Originally Posted by daveymAre you doing the cap in beads. At our company a 2g and 5g covers you for a 6g
Reply:I have been working on taking the same test, using 3/32" 7018 for the cap. Try the 3/32 might allow you to slow down.
Reply:Don't long arc on your starts with 7018.Never!You will get porosity big time.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopDon't long arc on your starts with 7018.Never!You will get porosity big time.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopDon't long arc on your starts with 7018.Never!You will get porosity big time.
Reply:99.9 % of the time I start the arc 1/2 to 3/4 ahead of the intended start point, (in the weld zone) that way the rod is up to temperature. You should never start the arc outside of the weld zone / path. Especially on a test! You can have a perfectly welded pipe and be busted out for arc marks outside the weld zone. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:When I was doing 5g caps I struggled to keep bottom weave tight. My arc would of course undercut, but never understood the porosity.
Reply:No mention of wall thickness but if using sch. 40, I'd go with a hot 3/32" filler instead of a cold 1/8". More percentage to getting clean starts. If using the 1/8", I'd feather every start to check for porosity.
Reply:You need to switch things up some.1/8 6010 for root.3/32 7018 for cap.Porosity on bottom is probably from running too cold.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGYou need to switch things up some.1/8 6010 for root.3/32 7018 for cap.Porosity on bottom is probably from running too cold.
Reply:When striking the arc, strike it 3/4 to an inch in front of where you want to start, the bring it back to your intended start point with a short ark, any porosity/slag laid down in the strike up will be burned out when you weld over it.Using lincoln excaliburs, id run 115 amps doing stringer cap on a 6" sch 40 with 1/8, maybe 85-90 with 3/32, keep the ark tight and the rod pointing strait at the pipe. Sometimes i will do a slight drag from about 2oclock to 12, and i always use a very slight (maybe .030 side to side) side to side weave, as it will give you better edge whetting and a smoother toe, never, ever long ark, abd never strike the ark outside of the weld zone.Sent from my LG-P716 using Tapatalk |
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