Prefered Cutting method - Hobby guys

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What are your typical cutting methods for lighter materials, say 1/8" angle, .065 tubing, and 16ga sheet metal, etc? Currently I'm using a chop saw with a metal blade and cut off wheels on a 4 1/2" grinder. It works, but not great, especially cutting practice coupons on the sheet metal.I have not tried to cut the 3/16" and 1/4" small pieces of flat stock I have collected. I have read in a Lincoln document about using 1/8" 6011 as a cutting rod. I'm sure it's not smooth, anybody regularly use this method?I'm considering buying a used cheap bandsaw, not sure if metal blades are available, or if it is suitable. Or a power portable hacksaw and get or make a stand / table for it.It's not in the budget right now for an oa rig or plasma, I could see picking up an oa rig off craigslist down the road, I've seen them in the $300-400 range.What do you think?Last edited by jtcnj; 09-23-2012 at 09:53 AM.Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Kind of depends on your budget. I have always had plasma (I work for Hypertherm)...but I used to always use a horizontal band saw to cut angle iron, rectangular tube and pipe to length. That worked well....but often required setup time to do miter cuts, etc. I now use my plasma (Powermax45) for all cut to length applications...I have a variety of guides or jigs that I use for the various material sizes....clamp the guide on the material and drag cut along the edge of the guide with the plasma. Simple and fast....and the edge gets cleaned up in a few seconds with the angle grinder.Jim Colt Attached Images
Reply:My friend and I have a small restoration shop and the most favored cutting tools are first, the DeWalt Porta-Band with the SWAG Offroad Table. Secondly, the Makita 12" Drycut saw. This saw is a chop saw that uses carbide tipped blades. I am stll surprised at how long the blades last. I am on my first blade after lots and lots of cutting. For thin sheet metal I just use an electric shear or a beverly shear, but if I have alot to do, I break out the Hypertherm 65 Plasma cutter. I can cut up to 3/4" stock. I think I have all the bases covered with this setup, but others may have better solutions that might help.
Reply:Jim, can you help with pictures of your jigs for your plasma? I would really like to have a straight edge solution for smoother cutting but im sure your jigs would give me some ideas on how to properly use it.
Reply:Another cheap tool that has not been mentioned is a metal cutting blade in a regular old handheld circular saw.  This has made some decent cuts for me on surfaces I could not get into my chop saw.Harbor Freight Inverter 130 amp DC stick/tig (sold, really!)Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175 AC/DC stick/Tig
Reply:For sheet stock, you can even cheat and put a 10" carbide-tip metal-cutting blade in my table saw.  It's too fast for 1/8" or thicker, but great for straight cuts in thin stuff.A 7-1/4" metal-cutting blade in a circular saw is cheap and effective for up to 3/8".  (I've seen it used for up to 3/4", even.)A portaband with the Swag stand is a very versatile cutting tool.And finally, there's no substitute for a cold-cut chop saw with a carbide-tip blade.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Really like your cutting jig JimI own a torch,plasma 70,cold-cut saw,abrasive saw and also have a few portabands....I'm with Jack on this,a steel demon steel cutting blade is hard to beat,9 out of 10 times thats what I use.
Reply:Originally Posted by jtcnjWhat are your typical cutting methods for lighter materials, say 1/8" angle, .065 tubing, and 16ga sheet metal, etc? Currently I'm using a chop saw with a metal blade and cut off wheels on a 4 1/2" grinder. It works, but not great, especially cutting practice coupons on the sheet metal.I have not tried to cut the 3/16" and 1/4" small pieces of flat stock I have collected. I have read in a Lincoln document about using 1/8" 6011 as a cutting rod. I'm sure it's not smooth, anybody regularly use this method?I'm considering buying a used cheap bandsaw, not sure if metal blades are available, or if it is suitable. Or a power portable hacksaw and get or make a stand / table for it.It's not in the budget right now for an oa rig or plasma, I could see picking up an oa rig off craigslist down the road, I've seen them in the $300-400 range.What do you think?
Reply:It was my impression that a wood band saw wasn't suitable for metal because it's to fast.I've got an O/A torch, an abrasive chop saw, and an evolutions Rage 3 compound miter saw with the multi purpose blade (need to get the steel blade but perfectly happy with the performance of the multi blade). If you're cutting sheet you're better off with either a plasma or O/A set up in my oppinion. Running large sheets through a band saw or porto-band just doesn't seem manageable without the right set up. either that or a nuematic sheer. Either the scissor type or the hole punch time will do ya. I got my hole punch one from HF and it works great on 16 ga steel.as for the angle and tubing, For that I'd use my Rage 3. Cleaner cut than an abrasive chop saw, and less breathable debri. and as a hobbiest myself, It fits the bill better because it can be used for more than 1 material. Shop space is a premium. the more tool you can get for your money the better.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:I personally hate my chop saw. It's loud, makes a mess and leaves a crap edge.I use a HF vertical/horizontal bandsaw, plasma cutter, cut off wheel on occasion and have a HF portable bandsaw that I built a stand for. Works well but it's loud. I would recommend a nice portaband saw and the swag off road stand.I do probably use my plasma cutter more than any other one though.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Then you must be on the market for metal cutting band saw not a wood cutting one.
Reply:Excellent feedback, thanks guys. I know about the wood chop saw speed vs. slower rpm metal saws, but didn't equate it with the band saws, duh.I'll add the circular and table saw blades to my arsenal for now and see where that gets me. The sheet I'm cutting now is mostly just to cuts strip coupons to practice on and maybe the 7 1/4" can do the same with the 1/4" or so material.The chop saw I have is an ancient, heavy Delta 14" that seems to run at a slower speed than the other wood cutting saws I have, but it does labor on the flat as oppose to edge surfaces. The abrasive blade is a Norton product from home depot and it a LOT thicker than the 4 1/2" cut off wheels.I agree the abrasive blade is a messy, unpleasant process. I always have problems with my safety glasses fogging while wearing a dust mask. The hobby on a tight budget is always a compromise to find something that works reasonably well, safely, with acceptable results in time and quality.Next in line would probably be the HF bandsaw or the porta and the Swag stand. Hmmm.Hey, Jack I strolled through your garage site. I'm in the process of getting a 20 x 20 pre-fab garage built and have the same space management considerations. Mine will also be a multi-purpose auto maint / workshop. I don't see a lift in it, but I especially like the compliance station.Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Originally Posted by jtcnjThe chop saw I have is an ancient, heavy Delta 14" that seems to run at a slower speed than the other wood cutting saws I have, but it does labor on the flat as oppose to edge surfaces. The abrasive blade is a Norton product from home depot and it a LOT thicker than the 4 1/2" cut off wheels.I agree the abrasive blade is a messy, unpleasant process. I always have problems with my safety glasses fogging while wearing a dust mask. The hobby on a tight budget is always a compromise to find something that works reasonably well, safely, with acceptable results in time and quality.
Reply:Originally Posted by jtcnjHey, Jack I strolled through your garage site. I'm in the process of getting a 20 x 20 pre-fab garage built and have the same space management considerations. Mine will also be a multi-purpose auto maint / workshop. I don't see a lift in it, but I especially like the compliance station.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleI personally hate my chop saw. It's loud, makes a mess and leaves a crap edge.I use a HF vertical/horizontal bandsaw, plasma cutter, cut off wheel on occasion and have a HF portable bandsaw that I built a stand for. Works well but it's loud. I would recommend a nice portaband saw and the swag off road stand.I do probably use my plasma cutter more than any other one though.
Reply:On a budget:  electric grinder with 4.5" abrasive cutoff blade.Otherwise:  Milwaukee portable band saw, deep cut, variable speed.  This thing is amazing.  About $300 brand new (which I recommend), or $??? on CL or eBay.An electric jig saw with a premium metal-cutting blade is another option (I really like the Bosch metal cutting blades).KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:you might consider getting a 3m half mask. under $30 and replaceable filters. If you're fogging up your glasses you're not sealed properly. which means you're letting crap in too. the half mask gets a better fit and eliminates both the leak, and the fogging. I use mine under both my face shields, and my helmets.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger