Paint color

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Paint color question, I have a table project for a customer and they want the bare metal look mill scale and all. I am incorporating expanded metal and some old steel bins for drawers. My question is I need to paint the expanded metal and drawers and trying to get the bare steel look. I know its not gonna be perfect but is there a color out there anyone knows that's a close match?
Reply:You should be able to get a clear coat. Makes it a little shiney,but let's the meatl show through.
Reply:Black oxide coating can match millscale pretty well, and as it's a surface conversion process it won't look painted.
Reply:Originally Posted by Weld oneYou should be able to get a clear coat. Makes it a little shiney,but let's the meatl show through.
Reply:Originally Posted by Weld oneYou should be able to get a clear coat. Makes it a little shiney,but let's the meatl show through.
Reply:try hammertone grey,gray by rustoleme this is black hammertoneKlutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:Good luck.  I had a job,  customer wanted bare metal look.  I decided to find a paint to match the millscale so it would be uniformed, after painting and then after stripping all the paint and using tooth pick to remove it from scroll work the job was complete.  I applied lacquer to give uniformed rustic look.  Don't paint unless your customer know what to expect.
Reply:Had a customer want a gate cleat coated.  Having learned my lesson sent her to the powder coater to check out her gate.  It was orange-ish.  The gate was refinished bronze.  Make sure your customer knows what to expect.  Bare and natural can be difficult finishes to acheive of the customer has different perspective.
Reply:I know an artist-blacksmith who uses cheap Krylon satin clear spray paint on his projects, after wire-brushing loose millscale off.  I haven't pulled up the MSDS for it, but if I had to guess, I'd say that it's either a lacquer or an acrylic.  It doesn't change the look of the metal much at all, though I do have my doubts about its longevity when used on outdoor projects.  I met another blacksmith who simply melts beeswax onto his projects, but he doesn't consider it to be a permanent finish; says it needs to be renewed about annually.I'll say this:  I had some bare steel parts that I shined up by wetsanding with 400-grit sandpaper, after soaking in Evaporust (so they had a smooth, but not mirror, finish).  I applied two coats of a high-quality 2-component automotive clearcoat (Dupont Chromaclear) to all surfaces.  After a couple of years (in a sheltered, indoor spot), rust had crept back under the finish in places.  I figured that this might happen -- since clearcoat is meant to go over basecoats, not bare metal.  I'll probably strip all of the clear off and just apply some paste wax from time to time (which is what I use on many of my handtools). Originally Posted by tapwelderHad a customer want a gate cleat coated.  Having learned my lesson sent her to the powder coater to check out her gate.  It was orange-ish.  The gate was refinished bronze.  Make sure your customer knows what to expect.  Bare and natural can be difficult finishes to acheive of the customer has different perspective.