weldanpower 225G& briggs engine removal

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Hello all, I am new here but have a weldanpower 225G7 with a 16hp briggs. One of the mounts on the oil pan is broken and I would like to remove the engine to fix it properly. I cannot get the engine to come loose after removing the 4 bolts that mate the frame of the welder to the engine. Is the crank keyed to the armateur shaft? I am kind of at a loss at this point and dont want to take anything else apart that I dont need to....Thanks, Ben
Reply:Tapered output shaft.  Need to remove center bolt in rotor and fan which requires pulling the front panel off to do it properly.It's easier to just refer you to this http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=30753&page=5 (as well as others) thread.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Sorry for the late update. I got the engine off of there and got the sump pan off. A little bigger job than I initially inticipated, but doable nonetheless. I got the sump pan/motor mount off and started repairing it, then ran out of argon. Will be getting a refill soon. Does anyone know if these have a common problem with the oil sump pan cracking near the mounts?
Reply:Yeah, it's a bit involved and I haven't really heard of a problem in that area.  Perhaps it got dropped?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Not sure about whether it got dropped or not. It just seems to me like the feet on the oil sump pan that mount the engine to the running gear of the welder are a bit weak-and a pain to tig nonetheless as it appears to be a die-cast part. Definitely some zinc in that thing. Anyway, I got it fixed and ready to go back together. The only thing I can think of is that the previous owner did not have it properly mounted. THe mounts in the back were original, while those in the front involved a piece of square tubing with some rubber in between the tubing and the motor mount. This rubber was too stiff to absorb shock, which I think is what made it crack. I also am inclined to think the pan itself may have also been defective. I spot-checked it after cleaning and found multiple cracks in various random locations. This would tell me that a small crack or to was enticed into cracking more until the whole mount broke. Going back together soon- got new gaskets and a new oil pump seal, as many here on WW have advised