Buying a New Blue Multi

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I work in museum fabrication here in nyc and have had a number of folks coming to me for welding lately. These will be side jobs to my regular employment at various museums; and I want something light that I can move around with (don't have a dedicated shop). I have a good deal of experience with Stick and MIG. I love stick, my absolute favorite... feels like I imagined welding would when I first got into it. I have no Tig experience but I'm sure I'll pick it up fairly quick. Not a huge fan of mig but it is super fast and I am good with it.So, I'm looking into the miller multimatic 200... now, I've read all the threads about this machine. I mean all of them. Twice. I've looked into the lincoln 210 mp and it just looks a bit on the chincy side to be honest. The extra 10 lbs of weight isn't appealing either. Anyways, now I'm caught looking between the maxstar 200 sd and the multimatic.... the maxstar looks a damn sturdy machine but then MIG is a money makerr—and this machine needs to be a moneymaker for me. Having a hard time deciding and pulling the 2k trigger. Maxstar, slightly better duty cycle, 200 amps in stick and tig, multimatic is only 150 in tig and stick. Neither can tig aluminum so that is what it is. Can't afford a dynasty, already went down that road in my head. So, if anyone has an opinion, I'd love to hear it!(sorry for yet another "I'm buying a welder.... thread")
Reply:In my humble opinion the blue welders are over priced. I bought a blue 252 for my welding buisness and it's a great welder. Last summer I bought a Hobart Ironman on sale for half of what I payed for my 252 and it welds just as good as my blue 252. Both Miller and Hobart are owned by ITW and they both have outstanding customer service. I had a dynasty fry the circuit board one month after the warranty ran out, cost to have it repaired was $1,500. Think long and hard when it comes to buying expensive inverters, they AIT cheap to have repaired. If I were you I would be looking at a Hobart 210mvp(runs on both 110 or 220) or maybe a Ironman if you have 220 at the place you do your welding. Just my opinion from my experience, good luck.Last edited by kctgb; 03-06-2016 at 11:51 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by kctgbIn my humble opinion the blue welders are over priced. I bought a blue 252 for my welding buisness and it's a great welder. Last summer I bought a Hobart Ironman on sale for half of what I payed for my 252 and it welds just as good as my blue 252. Both Miller and Hobart are owned by ITW and they both have outstanding customer service. I had a dynasty fry the circuit board one month after the warranty ran out, cost to have it repaired was $1,500. Think long and hard when it comes to buying expensive inverters, they AIT cheap to have repaired. If I were you I would be looking at a Hobart 210mvp(runs on both 110 or 220) or maybe a Ironman if you have 220 at the place you do your welding. Just my opinion from my experience, good luck.
Reply:I've used a Multimatic every day for the last six months and don't have a single complaint about it, besides the ten foot MIG whip it comes with. (The Bernard gun is really nice but the short length sucks) The MIG arc is very nice, it stick welds beautifully with 7018, and TIG welds quite nicely, just like a Maxstar.
Reply:Cut me and I bleed Blue.......but Take a look at the new ESAB Rebel. I ran one over the weekend and it is a very nice machine. Ran 6010/11 nice and of course 7018 like butter. I was a little bumpy on the TIG side because I am used to a gas solenoid and hi freq start but it seemed very capable. The MIG was iffy but the ESAB rep thinks it was the gun liner.For the price difference I would find it hard to buy the Multimatic over the Rebel.
Reply:Originally Posted by vwguy3Tweco Fusion 180 MIG gunThe MIG was iffy but the ESAB rep thinks it was the gun liner.
Reply:I have a multimatic and a maxstar 150stl. If you close your eyes you can't tell the difference on stick or tig. I've had the maxstar since 2004, and the only problem has been the receptacle for the tig remote wore out. Since I got it, I've used the multimatic more. Flux core mig is really handy. I like the digital display. Both require 220v to stick weld well, 110v makes it really difficult to strike an arc.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Thanks for all the responses.great to know that it performs just like the maxstar in tig. I have looked into the esab. It looks quite nice, and from what I understand (having never used one) is that esabs are pretty good and trying to get a foothold in the market with the red and blue. I saw one in person the other day and it looked a bit chunkier than the multimatic which isn't appealing.. although for less than $1500 it comes with all accessories which is appealing. The lack of a solenoid for tig is a downside. But If I'm gonna learn I'll probably come a long faster if its a bit harder to be honest. It looks as though the duty cycle is better and it goes to 180a on stick and tig. Though from what I've read about the multimatic, people havent been rubbing up against the limit too much with medium duty work. I won't be working on anything over 1/4" most likely. too bad I missed the rebate that just ended I think at this point I'm ruling the maxstar out.
Reply:Does anyone know anything about WelderSupply.com? They've got the multimatic for sale for just under $1700
Reply:They are good,bought 3 machines from them.. Nothing wrong with a Multimatic IMO. Miller build a nice little inverter in those sizes.. You do get a built in USA machine, so that is kind of nice right there. Not too far out of line $$$. If you don't like it, it will hold it's value about the best of any of the 3-1 machines.. I really don't care all that much where it was built,nice you have a USA option.. Not many out there..Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i