Remote Rheostat Wiring

admin

I bought a cable's remote pigtail and switch today from a friend of mine . The problem is there is no instructions. Does any one know the wiring for this? Or know where I can get it. Thanks Mike
Reply:Here you go. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Awesome thank ya CEP. I will get on that asap
Reply:This file is lots clearer and even readable.is a pdf Attached ImagesHomemade Remote.pdf (40.2 KB, 827 views)Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:You should add one more wire to those drawings. A case ground. That design will allow 110 volts dc to be on the box, if a wire shorts to it. You need a ground back to the welder so a fuse or circuit breaker will shut down the power if a short happens.
Reply:Originally Posted by ccawgcYou should add one more wire to those drawings. A case ground. That design will allow 110 volts dc to be on the box, if a wire shorts to it. You need a ground back to the welder so a fuse or circuit breaker will shut down the power if a short happens.
Reply:Maybe I can help. lolWith sa200 and  200d (dc exciter machines) we only use a regular 3 wire extension word.  The black wire is the 120v (dc) hot wire to the grinder.The white wire serves two purposes.  It goes to the grinder plug and completes the normal 120v circuit there (the normal common wire), and it also goes to one side of the remote rheostat.  It provided a 'route to ground' for the rheostat and allows it to work.The green "chassis ground" wire is not used as you would in a regular setup.  It is used as the other wire to the rheostat instead and not used as a chassis ground wire.If you ever get in a plant or get an actual electrical inspection done you won't pass because your chassis ground wire (the green wire) will have current on it.  And if you ever try to use an inline GFI it will trip all the time because of the current difference on the white and black wires.  But wired this way the grinder will work on the extension cord even if the remote box isn't plugged in.  But be aware that Cables Remote's have always been wired in reverse.  The black wire goes on the wide common prong and the white wire on the narrow brass prong.  (criss-crossed).  I'm not sure why he does that but it does give the brass prong to the white wire so it might help the remote work better.  I don't know.  lolWith a ac 300d, a/c 250, etc.  Anything with an AC exciter.  You need a 4 wire cord or, like said above, you'll have 120VAC on the box if a wire shorts out.  The 4th wire (the green wire) chassis grounds the grinder and the remote box if you wire it up right.  Or you need 2 cords.  One for the grinder and one for the rheostat.Good luck
Reply:OK,The SA-200 I have in the yard has a three prong plug.  The ground wire leads to "chassis" ground but it is isolated from "earth" ground.Neither the black or the white wire connect to chassis ground.  In my house there is a 220v supply -- 120-earth ground-120  It is connected to earth ground at the panel as is the white wire also.The SA-200 110v DC supply is floating or completely isolated from chassis ground.I have poured over the wiring diagrams and cannot find a path to "ground" for the rheostat.Slowhand, you did bring up an important thing in that a homemade remote will not likely pass inspection and we all know how anal they are about such things these days.Still need an electrician to lend us her/his opinion.Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:Well,  to pass inspection you need a 4 wire cord IMO.  That will give you a true chassis ground (the green wire), and the rheostat on the red wire (and sharing the white wire of course).I think you're right about the old SA's not having a chassis ground (3rd prong - green wire).  Back then we didn't have such things.  I can remember those old machines only having a 2 prong plug, no chassis ground.Its an easy step to install one.  Replace the 2 prong plug with a 3 prong.  Run the green wire from the 3rd prong to a bolt on the front panel.  To be really legal ground the generator to the frame, then ground the frame to the truck with a strap.The rheostat is at the end of the heat deal in the main alternator.  The exciter current leaves the exciter and goes to the fields in the main alternator.  Then to the rheostat, through it, then to ground.  The rheostat is like the control valve on that circuit.  If you open the rheostat fully open then it allows lots of current to pass through it to ground (the white wire which is tied to the welder frame) and this excites the main fields fully.  If you turn the rheostat fully down to the lowest number then it adds about 53ohms of resistance to the circuit which limits how much current can pass through.  Its sorta works like a typical volume control does, only in reverse IMO.  At least thats how I remember it anyway.  BTW:  What you mentioned is called "neutral bonded".  When the white wire and the green and/or bare wires, are tied together.  Usually you only want the neutral and the ground to be tied together in one place and that should be at the source.  In a home its either the main breaker box or the external disconnect, where ever the ground rods come to.  A generator on a truck or trailer should be "bonded neutral".  That way the white wire is tied into the frame of the unit and the generator housing, at the unit (the source).Later guys.Last edited by slowhand; 12-30-2010 at 07:48 PM.
Reply:I think nitesky has forgotten that it is a remote wiring, and he is trying to compair it to house hold AC. I know that when we bring our rig trucks into DOW Chemical we cannot run a grinder on our remote box. Have to run on a GFCI protected circuit.
Reply:I have not forgotten that it is remote wiring.  My comparison with house wiring was to show the difference between the two.Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."