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I'm working on a couple projects out of 3x3 box and I need an attractive and reasonably strong way to do 90 degree butt joints that bolt together. All I can come up with that's hidden is weldnuts on a plate, recessed into the end of the butted piece, and put access holes opposite it on the long section, hidden on the bottom.Anybody have examples of something similar to that, or somewhat attractive gusset bolt plates or similar?edit: to be clear, in the past whenever I've built something that needs to be knocked down, I did it by welding a short piece of angle iron to one and bolting thru the other.I'm just after something more attractive that also aligns a little better.Last edited by hypnolobster; 11-08-2014 at 08:37 PM.
Reply:I would weld a little stub, which fits inside the other tube. weld a captive nut inside the stub and drill a matching hole in the outer tube. slip the tube over the stub and bolt it in place.KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:Something along these lines?
Reply:It appears to be on an outside corner... is the bolt head hanging out going to cause an interference problem?250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I'm a big fan of those slip fit connections just like you've drawn up. The only problem is the welded seam can cause interference on the inside of the larger square. Depending on the size of the tubing, sometimes the pieces slide right in like a dream. Otherwise a mill comes in handy. I just made a bed frame that was made in two halves with those slip connections. Larger size was 1-1/2" x 11ga and the smaller size was 1-1/4", so ideally, it would have fit in with .005" clearance, but the radius of the corners didn't quite match up and the weld caused a lot of interference. I just used a shell mill and trimmed off .01" or so on two sides and it slid right in. Didn't wiggle or nothin. If the corners of the 1-1/4" tubing were in line with the 1-1/2" tube, I would have just used a small ball mill and milled a slight detent for the weld to slide through.I'm not sure what your application is, or what size tubing you are using, but generally speaking, using 14ga for the larger square and then going 1/4" smaller for the smaller tube will give you a free sliding connection. You'll get a lot of play though, and may find the final structure doesn't bolt together as square as you would have hoped.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:This is mostly for furniture. Think 3x3 box tube and roughsawn oak.I'll probably be using 14ga 3x3 if I can find it, otherwise 11ga, so it's good to know a quarter under is a starting point.Thanks guys, I like this idea. Might try and find flat or button head allen bolts for this.
Reply:Originally Posted by hypnolobsterSomething along these lines?
Reply:Instead of weld on nuts, what about drilling and tapping threads into the holes in the angle iron? Use 3/16 or 1/4" thick steel for the angle and you should have plenty of meat for the bolt threads to engage with. This would be a little more labor, but you could cut the bolts to exactly the right length for a cleaner finished look.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Yeah, that might be easier than dealing with aligning nuts inside what would probably be a slightly oversize hole. Thinking about how to do it, leaving the stub-material a little long when welding it on might be wise to get it all square, and then cutting it down to 2" or however long.Drilling the holes, I think I might tack the stub inside the big tubing and thru-drill the whole thing on the drill press to make sure it's perfect.
Reply:Originally Posted by hypnolobsterI'm working on a couple projects out of 3x3 box and I need an attractive and reasonably strong way to do 90 degree butt joints that bolt together. All I can come up with that's hidden is weldnuts on a plate, recessed into the end of the butted piece, and put access holes opposite it on the long section, hidden on the bottom.Anybody have examples of something similar to that, or somewhat attractive gusset bolt plates or similar?edit: to be clear, in the past whenever I've built something that needs to be knocked down, I did it by welding a short piece of angle iron to one and bolting thru the other.I'm just after something more attractive that also aligns a little better.
Reply:How about a pair of coupling nuts with a piece of all thread in the middle. Screw together and insert in tube align and then unscrew until they tighten into the tube. Just a touch of weld to keep them from ever moving again. Very sturdy and strong as they bolts would be pulling against each other.
Reply:@ hypnolobster - many great suggestions provided above. For a variation on a theme, check out FormDrill USA. Test drove one of their rigs at FABTECH'15 and was impressed. Do not currently own the tool, but the concept for quickly/accurately "creating" threaded inserted threads is slick. "Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Over a year old.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Have you looked at nutserts?
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKai@ hypnolobster - many great suggestions provided above. For a variation on a theme, check out FormDrill USA. Test drove one of their rigs at FABTECH'15 and was impressed. Do not currently own the tool, but the concept for quickly/accurately "creating" threaded inserted threads is slick.
Reply:Originally Posted by Weld_that is definitely pretty slick |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:10:50