Dump trailer project

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Ok, here we go: I have a 5x10 utility trailer that I wish to convert to a dump trailer. I built it several years ago with this conversion in mind. It has a 2x4, .125 wall rect. tube frame with 14 ga formed sides. The floor is currently pressure treated wood. My plan is to remove the tongue, axles and springs and use this assembly as the "bed" for the dump trailer. I am going to construct a new sub-frame/running gear and mount this "bed" to it.Current axle is 6000lb, 6-5.5 15" wheels, 7.50x15 LRD bias ply tires. No electric brakes but I will probably add them when I re-do the trailer.My question(s): Which is better, scissors style lift or direct lift using either a single or dual cylinder ?Does anyone have or know where to get any drawings/plans for the construction of a scissors frame?If using a single/dual cylinder direct lift arrangement, how do I determine the mounting location of the pivot points for the cylinder(s)?Any suggestions for cylinder bore and stroke for either style of lift?Thank you in advance for any suggestions or info you can provide, all are greatly appreciated. Attached Images
Reply:I think you may be wasting your time with that single axle, but it's your project.  I detailed my build pretty good in my "Boostinjdm's Trailers" thread.What are you planning to load in it?  What is the tow vehicle?My name's not Jim....
Reply:I agree the single axle might not be the best way to go. My buddies 10K dump weighs close to 3K empty, and it's a small dump trailer. That's not a lot of payload left on a 6K axle. You might find this chart useful. It lists common weights of bulk material by the yard. Note that 1 yard of dirt is pretty close to 3K and 1 yard of concrete is close to 4K. 1 yard is tiny in a 5x10 trailer. That would be roughly a 6" thick coating of dirt over the bed of the trailer. A 12" thick coating would max out  or exceed the axle without having added the trailer weight. Most dump trailers have way more volume than they can carry on the axles with common materials. That is fine if you haul leaves or possibly mulch, but if you haul dirt/concrete/stone most people almost always overload dumps. I wish I'd taken picts of what a ton of damp bar sand looked like in the back of my truck. It was about 3 or 4 good sized wheel barrow loads of sand at best. I loaded it in minutes with a shovel into the bed of the truck on a small tarp.http://www.harmonysandgravel.com/charts.htmNorthern tool sells dump bed plans pretty cheap. That will give you all the information you need on scissors, location of pivots and frame size, though those plans are for dual axle trailers IIRC.One of the biggest issues I've seen with home made dumps is that the body frame ( as opposed to the base frame) is too light and the body twists when loaded. This gets even worse if you try to put up the body on uneven ground and you are loaded with something "sticky" like wet dirt that doesn't instantly start to slide out. Once bent, the body almost never sits right from then on..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:1) Not is "business", trailer for personal use only. Gravel, mulch, brush etc are what I'm looking to haul. I do not need nor want a 10K plus tandem axle trailer setting in my driveway.2) I've had 5000 lb of gravel in this trailer, didn't even squat. 3" dia tube axle has #70 spindles (big bearings) so I can upgrade the springs and switch to 8 bolt wheels if I need to.3) 2011 F150 4x4 with the 3.74) Trying to dump on un-even ground is just asking for trouble, 30 years in equipment operations, they teach that the first week.5) Yeah, most people grossly over load dump trucks/trailers. They have no concept of the weight per volume of most materials. "If it fits, it ships" mentality is all to obvious by some of the loads I have seen.6) None of the "plans" that I have been able to find include any drawings for a scissors style hoist. They all use a purchased unit. Makes me think they are in cahoots with the suppliers.
Reply:There are no plans because most home builders don't have a mill and lathe to make the parts for a hoist. Also the geometry of a sissor hoist needs to be very acurate or you won't get what your after. If you want the measurements go to a trailer sales yard with a piece of paper and tape measure and measure up what you need. If you live in a rural area I would just go to an old machinery jockey and buy an old farm wagon hoist. They are the same thing you buy new but at least around me you can get them for $1-300.00.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by trlman1) Not is "business", trailer for personal use only. Gravel, mulch, brush etc are what I'm looking to haul. I do not need nor want a 10K plus tandem axle trailer setting in my driveway.2) I've had 5000 lb of gravel in this trailer, didn't even squat. 3" dia tube axle has #70 spindles (big bearings) so I can upgrade the springs and switch to 8 bolt wheels if I need to.3) 2011 F150 4x4 with the 3.74) Trying to dump on un-even ground is just asking for trouble, 30 years in equipment operations, they teach that the first week.5) Yeah, most people grossly over load dump trucks/trailers. They have no concept of the weight per volume of most materials. "If it fits, it ships" mentality is all to obvious by some of the loads I have seen.6) None of the "plans" that I have been able to find include any drawings for a scissors style hoist. They all use a purchased unit. Makes me think they are in cahoots with the suppliers.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI agree the single axle might not be the best way to go. My buddies 10K dump weighs close to 3K empty, and it's a small dump trailer. That's not a lot of payload left on a 6K axle. You might find this chart useful. It lists common weights of bulk material by the yard. Note that 1 yard of dirt is pretty close to 3K and 1 yard of concrete is close to 4K. 1 yard is tiny in a 5x10 trailer. That would be roughly a 6" thick coating of dirt over the bed of the trailer. A 12" thick coating would max out  or exceed the axle without having added the trailer weight. Most dump trailers have way more volume than they can carry on the axles with common materials. That is fine if you haul leaves or possibly mulch, but if you haul dirt/concrete/stone most people almost always overload dumps. I wish I'd taken picts of what a ton of damp bar sand looked like in the back of my truck. It was about 3 or 4 good sized wheel barrow loads of sand at best. I loaded it in minutes with a shovel into the bed of the truck on a small tarp.http://www.harmonysandgravel.com/charts.htmNorthern tool sells dump bed plans pretty cheap. That will give you all the information you need on scissors, location of pivots and frame size, though those plans are for dual axle trailers IIRC.One of the biggest issues I've seen with home made dumps is that the body frame ( as opposed to the base frame) is too light and the body twists when loaded. This gets even worse if you try to put up the body on uneven ground and you are loaded with something "sticky" like wet dirt that doesn't instantly start to slide out. Once bent, the body almost never sits right from then on.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawA twin cylinder dump will virtually eliminate the twist when dumping.
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjNot any that I ever used, and they are frowned on for farm grain boxes because of their reputation for tipping over if the grain hangs up on on one side. There was a compny years ago that made a sissor frrame to put in on twin post hoists to stop that.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawThat's what I'm taking about. A had a harsh twin cylinder sissor dump I built on a 14 foot military 5  ton bed.   Compared to the single cylinder dump sissor I owned before that. It was night and day.
Reply:It wouldnt be very hard to build a sissor hoist. The ones i have are very simple built . If you need some measurements i can get them for you. This would be a very handy trailer and if you use commen sence when useing it you will be ok.
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjOk, that is still a sissor hoist tho. And a harsh is an excellent hoist.
Reply:Or..........forget about a hoist entirelyhttp://www.rededump.com/design"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammOr..........forget about a hoist entirelyhttp://www.rededump.com/design
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749That's pretty cool Sam.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Yeah I didn't stop to consider the engineering, just that it was a neat idea.I'm sure it's not AAACE approved.
Reply:All my local rental places rent small dump trailers for those who occasionally need one. I haven't seen box stores rent superbags for sand etc, just trash, but the local masonry supply company does it with sand. Rather than bring the sand out in a hopper, they bag it and crane it off with the block hoist. Most of the masons prefer it this way as they can move the sand around on site with their bobcat easily and don't get a ton of trash in the sand when they get near the bottom. That's usually when they are trying to use it to finish with stucco and really don't want stones or dirt in the mix.Guy I know who's in my blacksmithing group uses pallet crates for picking up coal in his truck. They chute it into the crate, then he pulls the crate with his forklift. I used the same idea, but I cut up an old pallet tote for liquids a friend got me from work. I cut off the top and loaded that up, then forked it out at the shop and made a cover so I can keep it outside..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I don't know what the actual dump angle is on one of the ReDeDump trailers.  I see where it could be of concern.As you guys know, I'm going to be building a dump truck this Winter.  The vendors I've contacted around here recommend a max 50ish degree angle on their hoists.  Here's a set of specs I found on the net for a hoist manufacturer http://deweyhoist.com/Single%20Cylin...tions%20R2.pdf  You also have to consider overhang, and the assumption that angles/loads are moving as dumped.  Hanging up a load at the rear of a dump truck can spell disaster sometimes.  I used to run straight dumps, and end dumps.  When using the spreader chains on straight trucks we seldom raised the bed any higher that an angle sufficient to make the gravel flow.  As the load decreased, we'd raise the bed higher.I was running back in the day of framed end dumps.  The older Fruehaufs are still around, but you don't see them much anymore.  I always felt safer dumping a framed dump than a frameless, although it was felt that the frameless was safer.........if you tipped it would be less likely to take the tractor with it, whereas the framed dumps would invariably take out the whole rig when they flipped.  Despite what I was told, I always felt the framed dumps were more stable.  It takes some getting used to when you raise one of the longer end dumps, looks real scary up there when the load starts to move out of the box, and the whole thing starts to sway as the weight shifts.  If I was dumping on a un level site, I'd always get out and look at various stages of the lift.  It took more time, and I got a lot of ribbing about it, but I never turned one over."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:That RedIDump is a twist on an old design that was common back in the 1930's before hydraulics became reliable. I have seen a lot of them setup on various trucks from that era.
Reply:I don't believe I'd worry about the load height over axles on the little ReDeDump.  If you stop and think about it, a backhoe on a gooseneck trailer is more top heavy and prone to flipping.  The height of the backhoe places a lot of weight up there in the air.  A load of dirt would be relatively close to the center of gravity in comparison.The deck on my Great Dane is around 54", and I go up another 9 or so feet when I load hay on it.  It's pretty unstable, but manageable.  Worst thing about hay is the concentration of weight on the top layer, it's not like loaded pallets in a van trailer that are maybe only chest to chin high.The top layer of bales (16bales x 900lbs per bale = 14,400lbs) is quite a bunch of weight sitting up 13ft 6inches in the air  Creates a lot of leverage, and requires care when driving on the curves.  At my age I'm more careful than when I was young, and these days I really do get a bit nervous on some winding roads that aren't properly angled on the curves, especially at 65mph.  I wimp out, and gear it down  Rather get home a bit late, than not get home at allAnyhooooo......I don't endorse, or condemn, the little red trailers, I just thought they were interesting in their concept."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:First of all thanks for all your responses. Some good, some bad but thanks for all. As to some of the issues noted:Dump angle. The axle is not the pivot point for the lifting of the bed. Single or dual axle the under carriage should never be as long as the bed. It's called "overhang" and the amount is based on the bed length and desired dump angle. This overhang aids in the lifting of the load by using the weight of the load and the overhang as leverage and the hinge point as a fulcrum. With too much overhang and not enough bed height above ground level, bed hits the ground before full extension of hoist. Conversely a too short overhang or none at all, hinge point at rear most point on bed and under carrige, also requires longer/larger cylinder on direct lift or larger/longer scissors to increase dump angle. The amount of overhang, the placement of the hoist/cylinder (distance from the bed hinge point), determine the lift (tonnage) of the entire setup. Building the scissors: Geometry is pretty simple, the length of the ram determines the spread of the arms when open. You have to have some offset when fully closed to aid in the initial lift. Fully closed the fulcrum of the frame/cylinder cannot be over-center or it won't open under load. The ones I have looked at, an it's been many, are all made from common mild steel square and round tubing, formed & flat stock, angle iron and round bar stock. I don't believe I have seen one piece that looks like it has ever been on a milling machine. Biggest issues, rotational joints without excessive play and or binding, GOOD welds and the capability for lubrication. Why build rather than buy: I am retired, I am not wealthy and I REALLY enjoy the challenge and fabrication of my own things. Yeah, I can buy a ready built dump trailer, hoist etc. but I don't want to. When someone says " Nice trailer where'd ya get it?" I want to be able to say, "Thanks, built it myself". A small rant:One of the growing problems I see with this Country is the fact that no one wants to learn how to do anything for them selves, "I'll just go buy one" doesn't teach any skills or develope self sufficiency. The "Trades" are no longer a part of the curriculum at many High Schools and Universities. Don't belive me, check GovDeals and look at all the equipment that is going to auction. It's really sad, the programs aren't being upgraded, they are being eliminated! Everyone can't be nor needs to be a Game Designer, Computer Programmer or Chef. SOMEONE has to build and maintain the mechanicals. We rely far too much on someone else, RE: other Countries, to provide for us.
Reply:Originally Posted by trlmanFirst of all thanks for all your responses. Some good, some bad but thanks for all. As to some of the issues noted:Dump angle. The axle is not the pivot point for the lifting of the bed. Single or dual axle the under carriage should never be as long as the bed. It's called "overhang" and the amount is based on the bed length and desired dump angle. This overhang aids in the lifting of the load by using the weight of the load and the overhang as leverage and the hinge point as a fulcrum. With too much overhang and not enough bed height above ground level, bed hits the ground before full extension of hoist. Conversely a too short overhang or none at all, hinge point at rear most point on bed and under carrige, also requires longer/larger cylinder on direct lift or larger/longer scissors to increase dump angle. The amount of overhang, the placement of the hoist/cylinder (distance from the bed hinge point), determine the lift (tonnage) of the entire setup.Building the scissors: Geometry is pretty simple, the length of the ram determines the spread of the arms when open. You have to have some offset when fully closed to aid in the initial lift. Fully closed the fulcrum of the frame/cylinder cannot be over-center or it won't open under load. The ones I have looked at, an it's been many, are all made from common mild steel square and round tubing, formed & flat stock, angle iron and round bar stock. I don't believe I have seen one piece that looks like it has ever been on a milling machine. Biggest issues, rotational joints without excessive play and or binding, GOOD welds and the capability for lubrication. Why build rather than buy: I am retired, I am not wealthy and I REALLY enjoy the challenge and fabrication of my own things. Yeah, I can buy a ready built dump trailer, hoist etc. but I don't want to. When someone says " Nice trailer where'd ya get it?" I want to be able to say, "Thanks, built it myself". A small rant:One of the growing problems I see with this Country is the fact that no one wants to learn how to do anything for them selves, "I'll just go buy one" doesn't teach any skills or develope self sufficiency. The "Trades" are no longer a part of the curriculum at many High Schools and Universities. Don't belive me, check GovDeals and look at all the equipment that is going to auction. It's really sad, the programs aren't being upgraded, they are being eliminated! Everyone can't be nor needs to be a Game Designer, Computer Programmer or Chef. SOMEONE has to build and maintain the mechanicals. We rely far too much on someone else, RE: other Countries, to provide for us.
Reply:I have seen "Idiots" raise the load all the way up and not trip the gate. Result, dump truck standing upright balanced on gate. I too ran single axle dumps for a good number of years, plowing snow/spreading salt, stone chip & seal, asphalt etc. First thing you learn or should be taught: Never raise the bed any more than you need to to shift the load. Raise it slowly and only enough to feed the load till it's empty. Then PUT IT DOWN.Also, dual acting hoist is a GREAT help if things go bad. We only had single acting so I carried a chain to pull it down if it tripped. That and a shovel to clean up the mess.
Reply:I'm not trying to re-invent anything, just want to build my own stuff myself. I enjoy the challenge and the satisfaction of accomplishment. My kids were free to do as they felt was right for them. I encouraged my son in the trades, he is a pretty fair mechanic but I never insisted. Neither one went to college, not interested. Neither did I but I made a good living in the "Trades" and retired as the head of a Building Maintenance Dept. (19 facilities), with 30 years of service. I've met alot of "Educated" people that don't have the sense to pound sand. Application of knowlege not simply knowlege is the key to success.I have friends in the teaching profession and they constantly tell me of the elimination of the "Trades" courses. Not for lack of enrollment but for the current "Trendiest" TV show inspired career courses. Example: 15 students enrolled for Sr Carpentry class, class cancelled so they could start a Culinary Arts class for 4 students. Sorry, but that's wrong!
Reply:Wroughtn Harv, You have raised an interesting point about dump trailers and 1/2 trucks that gives me pause. You see I am not looking to build one but to buy one and hadn't ruled out a single axle 5.2k trailer.  I am guessing the greater the overhang on the back the greater the fulcrum affect? Thus a tandem axle with a shorter hang over would work better with a 1/2 ton? I have been borrowing a 6x10 tandem with a 7k rating, towing it with a long bed 1/2 Chevy, and have had no problems dumping dirt, gravel, trash, brush etc. So a little buying advice on what size, axle count would be appreciated. Not to totally hijack this thread, the original poster asked some specific questions on trailer build. Looking at a number of trailers on line and a few in person don't try and reinvent the wheel....take pictures of basic designs you like and build it, adding your personal touches of coarse,  if you have the skills as trailer builds always raise the ire of many on this forum with good reason. If you want specifics on pivot/hinge locations just google "dump trailer kits". Generally the kits with include on line owners manual/assembly instructions. Simply open one of these and they will give you all the answers you need about most of the questions you have asked.I have a neighbor who mounted a pickup insert dumper (ez dumper would be a brand) onto a smaller single axle trailer.  It's a nice little unit for all he wants to do, would not do much for me but for a guy just using to maintain his house and acre it's fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by Work4FoodWroughtn Harv, You have raised an interesting point about dump trailers and 1/2 trucks that gives me pause. You see I am not looking to build one but to buy one and hadn't ruled out a single axle 5.2k trailer.  I am guessing the greater the overhang on the back the greater the fulcrum affect? Thus a tandem axle with a shorter hang over would work better with a 1/2 ton? I have been borrowing a 6x10 tandem with a 7k rating, towing it with a long bed 1/2 Chevy, and have had no problems dumping dirt, gravel, trash, brush etc. So a little buying advice on what size, axle count would be appreciated. Not to totally hijack this thread, the original poster asked some specific questions on trailer build. Looking at a number of trailers on line and a few in person don't try and reinvent the wheel....take pictures of basic designs you like and build it, adding your personal touches of coarse,  if you have the skills as trailer builds always raise the ire of many on this forum with good reason. If you want specifics on pivot/hinge locations just google "dump trailer kits". Generally the kits with include on line owners manual/assembly instructions. Simply open one of these and they will give you all the answers you need about most of the questions you have asked.
Reply:Check your numbers, I said this trailer has 6000 lb GVWR suspension, allowing a 1000-1500 lb for trailer weight that leaves a  payload of 3500- 5000 lb.+/- Ten percent of the GVWR is 600 lbs. Not sure where you got the two ton tongue weight. I have pulled a single axle dump trailer with my truck, large load of damp compost. Truck didn't sag, load didn't lift the truck off the ground when I dumped it and it didn't all slide at once. Raised the bed far enough to get it moving and raised it slowly as it came out. The 12V hydraulic pump systems aren't the fastest things in the world so there is  plenty of time to watch the load and make sure it's moving out of the bed.  Seems as though a great number of the problems everyone is putting forth are usually the result of poor operator skills and not the fault of the truck/trailer combination or design issues.The pivot points, setback, hoist location, etc. that I mentioned are all illustrated on any installation chart for a scissors style lift from any manufacturer. I have also found charts for "direct lift" installations. If I follow their "Engineered" guide lines I don't see where I can go wrong.For most single axle utility trailer applications the axle centerline is located 6"-12" "behind" the centerline of the "bed" portion of the trailer. IE: 10' bed length, axle centerline 66"-72" rearward of the front edge of the "bed".  The tongue length is NOT used in this calculation. Placing the axle behind the centerline of the bed assues some tongue weight when the trailer is empty for towing stability. I have seen trailers with the axle ahead of or right on the centerline and they wander all over the place because of the lack of tongue weight.On the single axle dumps the axle centerline is usually moved forward of this position or to the centerline but not ahead of it to help with the balance of trailer by compensating for the additional weight of the hydraulic power unit and the cylinder.
Reply:Originally Posted by trlmanCheck your numbers, I said this trailer has 6000 lb GVWR suspension, allowing a 1000-1500 lb for trailer weight that leaves a  payload of 3500- 5000 lb.+/- Ten percent of the GVWR is 600 lbs. Not sure where you got the two ton tongue weight. I have pulled a single axle dump trailer with my truck, large load of damp compost. Truck didn't sag, load didn't lift the truck off the ground when I dumped it and it didn't all slide at once. Raised the bed far enough to get it moving and raised it slowly as it came out. The 12V hydraulic pump systems aren't the fastest things in the world so there is  plenty of time to watch the load and make sure it's moving out of the bed.  Seems as though a great number of the problems everyone is putting forth are usually the result of poor operator skills and not the fault of the truck/trailer combination or design issues.The pivot points, setback, hoist location, etc. that I mentioned are all illustrated on any installation chart for a scissors style lift from any manufacturer. I have also found charts for "direct lift" installations. If I follow their "Engineered" guide lines I don't see where I can go wrong.For most single axle utility trailer applications the axle centerline is located 6"-12" "behind" the centerline of the "bed" portion of the trailer. IE: 10' bed length, axle centerline 66"-72" rearward of the front edge of the "bed".  The tongue length is NOT used in this calculation. Placing the axle behind the centerline of the bed assues some tongue weight when the trailer is empty for towing stability. I have seen trailers with the axle ahead of or right on the centerline and they wander all over the place because of the lack of tongue weight.On the single axle dumps the axle centerline is usually moved forward of this position or to the centerline but not ahead of it to help with the balance of trailer by compensating for the additional weight of the hydraulic power unit and the cylinder.
Reply:Originally Posted by cd19I have a neighbor who mounted a pickup insert dumper (ez dumper would be a brand) onto a smaller single axle trailer.  It's a nice little unit for all he wants to do, would not do much for me but for a guy just using to maintain his house and acre it's fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by wroughtn_harvI'm glad to see you got it all figured out.  My experience says you're wrong but that's what makes the world so interesting.BTW damp compost isn't the same as gravel, road base, or better yet, good old fashioned clay.  Around here, North Texas, there is a company that specializes in compost products.  Their trucks are easy to identify, the beds are huge because it's all bulk and no weight.When you initiate the dump function the bed starts to lift and the weight shifts from the front of the trailer frame towards the rear pivot points.  If you are going to have a desired dump angle, approximately 50 degrees the pivot points will be located where the end of the bed doesn't touch the ground at full lift.  Your trailer as described will have that pivot point approximately four feet behind the center line of the axle.  And, huge and here, at least 2,500 to 3,000 lbs behind the center line of the axle is not going to lift the back of the truck if the load sticks for any reason?
Reply:These are the kinds of things to look for if you're good at salvaging, and restoring.  http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/4730237166.html(and you have a really nice 16' deckover, highway rated, load built, endurance insured, flatbed trailer, hooked up and ready to go at a moments notice)"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:http://knoxville.craigslist.org/grd/4662302228.html  Good way to see a bit of the country  Actually I range as far as Kansas, Missouri, Texas, Colorado, Arkansas, and bring it back home to Oklahoma.Trick is to buy a few things you need, then do the pickups in one round trip.  Truck's out there, might as well get a load for it if it's something you're gonna use in the future"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by trlmanThat is why I asked for input of the lifting style that seems to be the best and any drawings or plans for a hoist. If you read the thread you'll see I haven't had alot of success on either issue. Lots of opinions and advice but not much help. It's all appreciated but not what I was after.
Reply:Plan, budget, use all seem in line to me.  I'll be interested to see it come together.While were in the business of throwing out hoist adds that are probably no where near you, here's my find:http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/pts/4749654739.htmltwo other low cost options:My father in law has a roll-out bed thing that works way better than I would ever have guessed.  His truck has a plastic bed line that I'm sure helps, but I am amazed at what he can unload with it.  Obviously a full load of gravel on a wood deck trailer would never work, but for brush etc. it is perfect.http://www.loadhandler.com/Also, we used to have a garbage trailer that had something like a hi-lift jack mounted at the front of an old pickup bed with pivots at the back.  Used it a couple times a hear for dump runs and it worked just fine.  On a 10ft bed you would probably need something taller, maybe a pole (removable), pully, winch.Hoist/hydraulics are obviously best, but for low cost (and weight) - seems like a funky system might work just fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjWell seems to me you got lots of advice on this, you just didn't like what you got. As I said, if you want to build one just go to a trailer sales yard and measure one that you like the looks of and copy it. Get the measurements for all the pivots and draw up a plan. Easy as that you have your plan. I also recomended a more economical alternative of finding a local farm machinery jocky that deals in older farm machinery and buying an old farm wagon hoist since they are readily available and priced in the $1-300.00 range. They are rated from 4-6 tons and have been lifting 10-12 foot beds for 50+ years. They are the same sissor hoists still sold today for small dump trailers and truck beds. This is what I've done on many dump beds for one ton trucks and such except for the times a customer insisted on new. Here is one near me, it's at the top of the price range, but it took me a couple minutes to find it. Hope this is the info you were looking for.http://stcloud.craigslist.org/grd/4709964492.html
Reply:I want to resurrect this old thread because I am looking at building my own trailer dump bed.  I am looking at a much smaller scale than the original poster on this thread.  I am looking at using a small Nissan Pickup bed that I have, and was hoping to build the scissors lift (or whatever you call it) with a hydraulic ram.  I would've purchased this kit (https://www.trailerplans.com/index.p...etail?Itemid=0), but the weight of the kit is way too heavy to ship to Hawaii.I am looking at carrying at most 2,000lbs of cinder (more like 1,500lbs because the bed is really small).-- This space for rent.  Inquire within.
Reply:Mr trlman, hope you did not opt out, I was looking forward to this thread. I to build things just for fun, 5 trailers.  Will post a pick but none a dump. Yup, I could have saved money buying a good used trailer, but did not want to. Cost me more cause I did not find any good used stuff. Standing by........GeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:Any thoughts on this particular dump trailer from YouTube?-- This space for rent.  Inquire within.
Reply:probably sufficient for light yard debris loads, I for one would something more substantial to haul my firewoodGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:stanward, I've seen some of these smaller dump trailers at the Ag Equipment shows. They're pretty nice for use around the farm or yard but not much payload or volume. Easy enough to build but you'll have nearly as much in the pieces/parts for a small one as you will for a 5 x 10/ 6 x 10 single axle dump. If you can scrounge the hydraulics or just have them "laying around" (Never happens in my world) than you could put one together pretty cheap. I guess it all comes down to how much material you think you will be hauling on a regular basis. Small trailers don't take up a lot of room when there not in use which is a plus. Cuts down on whining about "What you gonna do with that trailer, just let it set?" What ever size you decide on you can bet it won't be big enough at some point and it will be out on a "Hey, can I borrow your trailer" job when you will need it ASAP.Keep posting on your project and I promise to do the same.
Reply:geezer,Here's some pics of a couple trailers I've built. Gave one away to Brother-in-Law, sold one and traded another for a 1 Ton gantry crane.
Reply:I don't have a strong pickup truck to haul heavy loads.  I have a small Nissan Hardbody pickup.  I built a trailer using a spare Hardbody bed utilizing a Costco/Home Depot axle and frame.  The max it could carry (and my truck can haul) is 2 tons.I was thinking of using this kit and rebuilding a beefy frame for the Hardbody bed and utilizing a stronger axle and wheel/tire combo:http://www.premium-supply.com/catego...oists/PCK-3530Last edited by stanward; 02-08-2015 at 02:25 PM.
Reply:Just buy one of the old military single axle dump trailers on CL or Ebay.   I have seen them for as little as $200    A few of those trailers and jeeps and a company of men have built roads with those things.  Though not so handy if it its just you.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:I have that M101A1, that I plan to sell because it's way too heavy for my pickup to haul.This is Hawaii, where things are quadruple the price of what you pay on the mainland.
Reply:That's a nice kit for a direct lift single cylinder dump. It should work great for your Hard Body bed. You'll need a simple under frame to support the bed and a roller frame for the axle/tongue etc. 2 x 3 x 1/8" wall tube or 3" channel for the bed under frame and 2 x 4 or 5 x 1/8" wall tube or 5" channel would be plenty for the roller. Look on the Premium Supply web site for a chart that shows cylinder placement and bed over hang. There is also a great set of plans on Ebay and from SouthwestWheel for a single axle 5 x 8 dump trailer. The roller frame design would be ideal for your application, just size it to fit the bed.
Reply:Originally Posted by bead-boyJust buy one of the old military single axle dump trailers on CL or Ebay.   I have seen them for as little as $200    A few of those trailers and jeeps and a company of men have built roads with those things.  Though not so handy if it its just you.
Reply:Here is the one I built last year I used the bed and hoist off my 1959 gmc dump truck.  yes I know I'm gonna catch crap for using mobile home axles but I had them. Actually I had everything but the lights, coupler, jack and paint.The hoist is an Anthony and rated for 9 tons. Electric pump is a little slow but beats unloading by hand.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:Propanehotrd, Looks great, my favorite color too! I hear a lot of flack about mobile home axles too. The thing is, they pull them things clear across the country on the Interstate super slab at 60-70+ mph. Nobody worries the first thing about the wheel bearings. Most of the ones I have taken apart have the #84 spindles on them, that's 5000 lb and up bearings and all are taper rollers. Keep them greased and dry, I don't see the issue. Most of the neg talk comes from the axle mfg's cause they want to sell you new axles. The Mobile/modular home folks use them over and over and I'll bet they might see a re-pack every other year if they're lucky. If you can get them cheap/free get em'. Most of them have standard style electric brakes and you can always change out the hubs if you don't like the spread bolt 14.5" oddball wheels and tires.