Gotta make a hand rail...

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Long story short had a fire a year ago. Nothing major for us but insurance carrier for my parents homeowner insurance dropped us.New carrier wants a hand rail on our front steps.Aside from following code, what's my best bet here?I was thinking il just get sch40 pipe and cut two mounting plates. Not sure how big the pipe should be or if I should use 3/16 or 1/8 for the plate.www.FirehouseFabricators.comZachLincoln 210mpLincoln SW200Hypertherm Powermax 45xp2x4 CNC Plasma Table.
Reply:I'd just google "handrail drawing" and find one that is to code. There are plenty of code compliant sites that will have drawings/sketches that you can use. OR.....you can give your local building inspector a visit and have him give you some advice. I'm almost sure if you don't follow ALL of the code requirements, your insurance company will wiggle away from a claim if there is ever a problem.
Reply:I just made a pair of handrails for a local company. I followed the code provided to me by the contractor, it was fairly simple. This is the requirements for Oklahoma, specifically Cleveland County Oklahoma, but ill give you the specs I used to build mine just for an idea. The minimum outside diameter for the handrail if a round material was used was 1 1/4". Maximum was 2 inches.  I used 1" Sch 80 pipe, which has an o.d. of just over 1 1/4". The top of the handrail had to be between 34-38 inches off of the surface of each step. and on the top and bottom the handrail had to go at least one tread depth past the edge of the stair and then mounted. So for example, if the tread depth of the stair was 12", then the mpunting point for the top of the handrail would need to be 12 inches past the lip of the top stair. Also, at the bottom the handrail had to go one tread depth past the bottom stair lip, and then turn down and then turn back and connect with the mounting surface of the pole. I hope this makes sense and can help you get an idea. If you want, I can upload some pictures of the pieces of paper that the contractor gave to me to follow. Gives all the specs I just listed  but has pictures that you may understand better.
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Reply:If the code specs a minimum thickness of material to use, go at least one size over. If it calls for 1/8", then use 3/16", if 3/16" then 1/4". That way you have exceeded the minimum requirements and made it stronger than code requires, and end up with a stronger rail than is called for . No harm in over building in a case like this. If a building inspector or insurance adjuster looks at it, it removes one of the things they may try to use to disapprove your build/install. Try to exceed their expectations so they have no choice but to approve it. If the infill panels call for no more than a 4" opening, then make them 3 1/2", or whatever code calls for, just go a little smaller in opening size.
Reply:If you dont own a bender just use 1 1/4" pipe. That way you can use cheap and readily available pipe 90s to make your bends.
Reply:I would use 1.25" pipe, if using fittings.  Last few pipe rails I have built have have been with sched 10 for weight/$ savings (A forum member suggestion).  Though uprights at sched 40.  Keep it simple.  Most homes cannot accommodate a code ada code compliant rail-- Running 1 ft past the top step and 2 feet past the nosing of the bottom step.  Insurance company wants a "hand rail." I would build out of square or rect stock.  Much easier to work with square stock.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75I just made a pair of handrails for a local company. I followed the code provided to me by the contractor, it was fairly simple. This is the requirements for Oklahoma, specifically Cleveland County Oklahoma, but ill give you the specs I used to build mine just for an idea. The minimum outside diameter for the handrail if a round material was used was 1 1/4". Maximum was 2 inches.  I used 1" Sch 80 pipe, which has an o.d. of just over 1 1/4". The top of the handrail had to be between 34-38 inches off of the surface of each step. and on the top and bottom the handrail had to go at least one tread depth past the edge of the stair and then mounted. So for example, if the tread depth of the stair was 12", then the mpunting point for the top of the handrail would need to be 12 inches past the lip of the top stair. Also, at the bottom the handrail had to go one tread depth past the bottom stair lip, and then turn down and then turn back and connect with the mounting surface of the pole. I hope this makes sense and can help you get an idea. If you want, I can upload some pictures of the pieces of paper that the contractor gave to me to follow. Gives all the specs I just listed  but has pictures that you may understand better.
Reply:I'm not sure if the code in the US is the same as Canada but our handrail has to be 1 5/8 OD. Guard rail is 2" OD.
Reply:I make a lot of handrails by having the local auto exhaust shop bend some tail pipe for me, I add a few mounts, weld a automotive freeze plug on the ends.
Reply:You can fool around with the flanges, but all professional rail makers I know of, that do residential rails, pipe and wrought iron, wet diamond core the rails in. Then they poor Quick rock or equivalent hydraulic cement. You can die the hydraulic cement to match the brick color, sandstone, granite or whatever you are coring into. I can make really accurate rails but I still core rather then flange. Sometimes the angle of the steps or uneven bricks, or cement pour, make it look nasty and make it flimsy. If you like wrought iron that will be the cheapest bet. And I doubt you will be able to match the quality or cost yourself.                       Sincerely,                            William McCormickIf I wasn't so.....crazy, I wouldn't try to act normal, and you would be afraid.