Finishing Steel Iron

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Im pretty new to welding and this is my first post here. Im using an AC/DC 225 Stick welder. I am currently making a piece of furniture for inside my house (a dining room table with a steel/iron base). So when I start out the steel has mill scale on it making it dull and a darker gray/black (this is the final look im going for). After the table is all welded together and cleaned up (Grinded) its obviously shiny steel that looks brand new. My question is: Whats the best way to get it back to that original finish/color (dull/darker)? I've read a few things around google about adding a patina to steel. Another option would be paint, although Id rather not paint it. Also, the finish needs to be clean...ish (wont rub off on clothing). Any advice is most certainly welcome! Thanks!I've attached a photo of the look I'm going for. Attached Images
Reply:Several people use blueing like used on guns. They make brown, black, and blue. If you search there are a few threads that are devoted to it.  Once you get the finish you like you can spray a clear coat over it to seal it. Another way is to take a torch to it and heat it till you get the color you want and keep moving round to heat the whole part to that color. If you make a mistake you just polish it with scotch brite or a wire wheel and try it again. Then spray clear coat over it.
Reply:Scale forms when red hot steel is exposed to oxygen. Mill scale is the scale that forms in the rolling process when the steel is hot. As mentioned you can "rescale" something by heating with a torch and allowing it to cool. Note that heating and cooling can produce some undesired effects like warping. Look up heat bending or flame straightening.If you really want a scale finish, I'd suggest doing everything in your power to protect what you have. When grinding, you don't need to grind out 2 or 3" on average. You just need to grind where the weld goes. If it's clean steel and you are stick welding, I'd even suggest not grinding at all for prep. The rod should penetrate light mill scale no problem in this application. If you plan to have the welds flush, that adds more complexity however. You'll either need to be very good and set your joints up to limit the welds that show, or be forced to deal with the  after effects of grinding.I know some smiths that will add a bit of black paint or dye to a clear finish to get that dark look over an item. I like to use hot wax on a lot of my stuff that I forge to give it that dark look. The finish does need to be touched up occasionally. Oil on hot steel is another possible option for a dark natural finish. I find even a clear coat on mill scale has a darkish finish to it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I was going to suggest something along similar lines -- wax melted onto metal looks nice, and although it's not super durable for outdoor use, I'd expect it would last just fine indoors with minimal touch-up.Another finish I like is linseed oil (usual cautions about not storing oily rags in a pile--yes, they really can spontaneously combust).  What I've done in the past is apply a heavy coat of oil and then heat the item until the oil smokes a bit.  This seems to cure the oil quickly and it darkens it up nicely.  I've done this on some smaller items in a toaster oven (dedicated to shop uses; no food in that one). Originally Posted by DSWScale forms when red hot steel is exposed to oxygen. Mill scale is the scale that forms in the rolling process when the steel is hot. As mentioned you can "rescale" something by heating with a torch and allowing it to cool. Note that heating and cooling can produce some undesired effects like warping. Look up heat bending or flame straightening.If you really want a scale finish, I'd suggest doing everything in your power to protect what you have. When grinding, you don't need to grind out 2 or 3" on average. You just need to grind where the weld goes. If it's clean steel and you are stick welding, I'd even suggest not grinding at all for prep. The rod should penetrate light mill scale no problem in this application. If you plan to have the welds flush, that adds more complexity however. You'll either need to be very good and set your joints up to limit the welds that show, or be forced to deal with the  after effects of grinding.I know some smiths that will add a bit of black paint or dye to a clear finish to get that dark look over an item. I like to use hot wax on a lot of my stuff that I forge to give it that dark look. The finish does need to be touched up occasionally. Oil on hot steel is another possible option for a dark natural finish. I find even a clear coat on mill scale has a darkish finish to it.
Reply:hey Kyle, I'm a newbee on welding web, great place to learn.  I have been researching finishes on steel for a couple years now, I make furniture too and know the look your going for.  You will want to check out Sculpt Nouveau. I have had great results with a product called Black Magic.  It is a acid based (who knows what this stuff is made of?) patina that blackens steel.  You can get a small bottle for $15.00.  You could also try black wax, - $12 for a tiny 2 ounce jar (enough to do a few tables) a semi transparent wax.  Actually, I think the black wax is regular old shoe polish.  I have had the best results with Black Magic, but there are a few tricks.Here's how I do it - grind welds with 80 grit flap disc - then right away (steel oxidizes fast) clean with some denatured alcohol on a cotton rag (steel has to be clean, clean clean) put some black magic on a cotton rag on your finger tip (wear rubber gloves), and don't use the spray attachment, your just wasting - rub into the freshly cleaned grind area.  It should turn black instantly.  Keep rubbing for a few minutes and don't leave any excess, it will leave a white scale if you do.  Top coat with metal oil (also from Sculpt Nouveau) or black wax.  I use the wax on the whole piece, then metal oil the next day after the wax has dried to prevent rusting.Here is a table commission I just finished.  The customer was looking for a raw metal, aged steel look.  Also take a look at the gussets I put in corners.  They square tables up and gives a good attaching point for the top.  Good luck, your table looks awesome!
Reply:What about that rust converter they use on car metal that stuff will stain it a rustic black... leave it outside to rust on purpose
Reply:Use a hammertone paint on it will give it the millscale look too since it has a two tone effect in the paint looks good to and shinny. Of use a flat black paint in real light coats.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:this is hot roll steel that is welded, ground and clear coated. I now use Insta-Blak 333http://www.epi.com/p/black-oxide/ste...insta-blak-333This is Insta-Blak 333 with a wax sealer