Welding with Chromium 333 Rod

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I have to weld up a hydraulic cylinder, the mounting yoke that holds the cylinder to the truck has started to crack off. The mfg of the cylinder says to make a proper repair, use chromium 333 rod. Also the mfg suggests that the rod be held above the cylinder, pointing down towards the crack, keeping the rod completely vertical and rotating the cylinder under the rod. This makes sense as it will keep the heat/penetration where is needs to be.What characteristics should I expect from the chromium 333 rod? I have done similiar repairs on other cylinders using E7018 without any problems. what differences should I expect between the two?Anyone know of a web site that describes the different types of rods and their uses?Thanks, Doc.Some of the things I do would cause a person to get hurt, expelled, arrested, or possibly deported. To put it another way, don't try this at home.Look at the stars whenever your can. That light travelled a long way to get here, dont let it go to waste on some patch of asphalt.
Reply:I have used a Chronatron 333 rod a lot.I think this is what you have or maybe not.Anyway the 333 rod is a specialty maint.rod.It has a high tensile strength [i think 80000 plus] and is very crack resistent.It is mainly used to weld different types of steel together.It can be used on mild steel,stainless ,tool steel.  I would prefer 7018 for this ,but if you have to use this rod,it runs a lot like 309s and the slag will pop off ,so watch your eyes.the metal has to be very clean,no oil or paint not even a little rust.it likes clean metal.runs very smooth and lays a beautiful bead.GOOD LUCK
Reply:That is exactly what I need to do. The cylinder tube is well rolled steel tube and the anchor point is steel forged ( at least it better be forged, I cant see it being cast), and since this has to hold the hyd pressure (2600 psi max) and hold the cylinder to the truck and hold the mast to the cylinder, ( and all the movement that goes with that) the high tensile strength makes sense.Gonna be tough to get it clean, it is a hyd cylinder. I bet the oil is soaked into the metal some.Doc.Some of the things I do would cause a person to get hurt, expelled, arrested, or possibly deported. To put it another way, don't try this at home.Look at the stars whenever your can. That light travelled a long way to get here, dont let it go to waste on some patch of asphalt.
Reply:Let me know how it turns out.
Reply:easiest way to clean it might be the combo solvent and heat method. use a can of carb cleaner, brakleen,  or electrical cleaner to hose and scrub off all vestiges of oil, remove all paint by hand and then degrease again. preheat with a torch to hot enough that any residual oil or residues; would smoke off. if you get a black surface, let cool and scrub with scotchbrite, reheat again. if it doesnt go black or smoke then you have gotten all the oil off. you must vee any cracks out before degreasing as they will harbor oil easily even when hot. dont heat it so hot that it starts to change color, and you only have to heat the surface - oil will only penetrate a metal surface a very short distance unless there are casting pores or other serious deformities there. a few brushes over it with a gas/air, mapp, or propane torch set up nice and hot should give you a surface flash off of any oils and a quick cleanup for ready to weld. you could probably use a blowtorch but the flame carries more carbon because of the various additives in gasoline. use coleman stove fuel ( mostly just pure naptha) for a cleaner burn if you are using the old fashioned blowtorches.
Reply:"NEVER use brake cleaner before welding!   Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Gashttp://www.brewracingframes.com/safe...sgene-gas.html
Reply:Some brake cleaner does make Phosgene gas... others do not.... make sure you read your labels before you start.... pics?