?? Weld aluminum exhaust hole repair ??

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Got this dropped off, they want the two exhaust bolt holes fixed.Anyone have ideas on how to fill 1" deep holes?I've tried filling holes with the tig before and I clearly do not understand how to get to the bottom when it's that deep and narrow.The right hole has a failed thread insert repair....The left hole almost reaches the valve.Thanks for any help Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:This is the monster muffler that bolts on.I think it's too heavy for those two bolts personally.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I don't have an answer for you, but I could have an 11HP Honda heading the same direction. I have to agree that it is a very big muffler for all it does. Maybe the end of that casting could be inside threaded for a Briggs style muffler?  Watching to see what your cure is...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:You could put some devcon in there maybe. If you try to weld that you could possibly have the seat pop out
Reply:Problem is vibration we had a 13 hp on a pressure washer that shook everything apart. Looks like a job for jb the welderMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:stupid design. You have to drill the hole out big enough to get the weld into ive done it to the adjusters and dirt bime swing arms. Maybe welding a block onto it re drill and tap it kinda like a throttle spacer ideaHigh Octane Welding
Reply:Could you screw in an aluminum threaded rod with a chamfer and weld it.I would chamfer the casting also.Jeff
Reply:I thought I was doing a favor for the concrete guy by lifting a power trowel out of my basement with a backhoe. The story is long, I'm an idiot. Let's say in hindsight what I did was stupid. I broke his 5 HP Honda (a 25 year old, badly worn one) in the same place. The replacement parts would have cost $800. I offered him a new Briggs IC engine instead. He was delighted. There's a guy here with a Jaguar E Type talking about machined sleeves with male/ female threads to fix that.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Get you a piece of 6061 round rod.Drill the engine block to the size of the round rod.  This will also clean out any and all threads.Center drill the round rod.Taper the rod @ 45° on one end.Chamfer the engine block @ 45°.Make hole in block tight enough for hammer (press) fit.Weld.Hand file flat.Then sanding block.Drill newly welded insert to desired tap size hole Tap.Clean.Enjoy repair.Note.  I highly recommend tearing said engine down to bare block.Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:Ps.Only way i know to weld to the bottom of a hole like that is to "v" groove it all the way to the top.Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:Originally Posted by ostie01Could you screw in an aluminum threaded rod with a chamfer and weld it.I would chamfer the casting also.Jeff
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BThere's a guy here with a Jaguar E Type talking about machined sleeves with male/ female threads to fix that.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave I clearly do not understand how to get to the bottom when it's that deep and narrow.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelWrong forum, bro!
Reply:There should be a couple of support studs on that giant muffler, there are on mine. as for filling up the hole, I would remove the head and have a field day with a die grinder, weld it in increments. As long as the head is kept fairly evenly heated and not overheated I don't think you run the risk of dropping a valve seat. In the long run it may be better to replace the head.Miller Big 40GMiller HF-251 D High FreqVictor OA Lincoln 135 MigMK 3A CobramaticBridgeport J HeadCronatron OxylanceRadnor ACAG TorchWeldcraft TIG Torches1 blown knee and two 5 Gallon pails away from being a hero.
Reply:Can you drill it out to the next size bolt.  It would not have to be metric.Dan D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:I'd drill it out and use a Heli-coil or another type of stainless insert. That's also a good way to fix spark plug holes. I've heard of a different type of insert but can't remember the name. The stainless threads are way less likely to strip than the aluminum.
Reply:Reminds me of old VW engines.... "Case savers" come to mind, you remember those? The original helicoil, but I know I have seen aluminum bolts too.  I think threaded aluminum rod cut off and slotted in the top so you can countersink it into the case with a slotted screwdriver and then weld it in place and drill/tap to correct bore.  Lot of work for such a "small" job.  But first instinct tells me to call the mower shop and price a bare head
Reply:Easiest way to fix would be to buy a clone head and bolt it on.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/CYLINDER-HEA...item1c479e96daYou're welcome.  Oh, install bigger exhaust studs right from the get-go.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Why on earth would you fix that instead of just buying a new one?! the part is $32 F.F.S.!http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HONDA-CY...item19f22850b9http://www.everestpartssupplies.com/...FRE1aQodEzYALwThe repair would cost 6x more as a new one! to repair it you'd have to disassemble it and grind off the outside half of the boss and weld it all back in.Last edited by MikeGyver; 01-29-2015 at 03:32 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmEasiest way to fix would be to buy a clone head and bolt it on.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/CYLINDER-HEA...item1c479e96daYou're welcome.  Oh, install bigger exhaust studs right from the get-go.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveAgreed, I found the same ebay sale item last night - welding is not the right solution in this case. Strange the owner of the motor, or the shop guy he brought it to, didn't come to the same conclusion?Looks easy enough to take apart - should be some torque specs on the net somewhere - common enough motor.
Reply:If that isn't a job for an EZ-Lok insert, I don't know what is!
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelBecause "$50 is a lot of money, can't you just run a quick bead on it?". You know the thinking behind this...
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeIf that isn't a job for an EZ-Lok insert, I don't know what is!Originally Posted by MikeGyverWhy on earth would you fix that instead of just buying a new one?! the part is $32 F.F.S.!
Reply:Originally Posted by whtbaronIf the part is $32 on ebay, he was probably getting quoted over $100 plus labor at the shop. At least that's the way it works around here...  I'm going to have to check out my 11HP out in the snow today. The muffler has been loose for a long time, but I'm hoping that casting at the base is still good.
Reply:You could do some porting while the head is off and make a header and turn it in to a 15 hp motor. But you would have to jet it
Reply:LOL...and bigger studs for the turbo....250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Find the manual for the thing. (Also not big bux)Add the price of the head gasket, exhaust gasket and the valve stem seals. And you are still under$100.It'll really help with the torque specs and how the governor springs reattach. I've got two Honda and 1 clone of that design. The drawings make a huge difference in confidence during re-assembly!Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:I'll spend several hours and make it looks just like one of those new ebay ones, you won't even be able to tell the difference!  lol $300.actually just send me $270 and buy the new one from ebay and pretend I welded it and we'll call it a deal.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverI'll spend several hours and make it looks just like one of those new ebay ones, you won't even be able to tell the difference!  lol $300.actually just send me $270 and buy the new one from ebay and pretend I welded it and we'll call it a deal.
Reply:Use a thread repair insert of your choice. Helicoil,  keensert,  timesert,  etc.  Done deal. Way stronger than a bare aluminum thread. Should have inserts to start with.
Reply:Originally Posted by SteveooUse a thread repair insert of your choice. Helicoil,  keensert,  timesert,  etc.  Done deal. Way stronger than a bare aluminum thread. Should have inserts to start with.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveLeft insert already pulled out from what I was told.Right insert failed.
Reply:Originally Posted by mike837goAnd the customer will continue to have failures until the mass of the muffler is fully attached to the engine! Get the far end bolted firmly to the crankcase.
Reply:I would try a lava nozzle.  I have a few that are 4&5 inches long and very very thin.  That would def get you to the bottom.  I would use some 0.35 or 0.45 filler until you get it high enough then step up on the filler size and remove the lava nozzle
Reply:I find the replies to the problem interesting.  I have an old 2 stroke cylinder with the same problem on an exhaust hole.  Major problem is the header flange goes into the cylinder and there is not enough wall thickness for a threaded insert.  Hopefully there is enough threads left in the bottom for a longer bolt to hold or I will be forced to try and weld it up.
Reply:I'd grind it off. There is no big deal building it up as far as necessary. The challenge is burning on the old junk until enough filth is cooked away to make filler stick. My father had a 1968 Arctic Cat with the same problem. The cylinder disappeared into the top secret world inside the local GE plant. It came back with the ears built up roughly. It then had to be milled, and drilled & tapped. I looked at it recently, I can't see a repair. He did re design the muffler with a short piece of flex, and better mounts.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:I have repaired 50 Harley Shovel Head cylinder heads in my career. They only have one 5/16 bolt holding the exhaust pipe in the head and it doesn't take much to break/strip the bolt....The only way I have done these and all have been successfulwas to open the side of the hole making the bottom of the hole accessible....thats the only way to repair a hole that small with TIG....you wont have any porosity and the new threads will be strong either  a tapped hole or some kind of insert....Your wasting your time  trying to WELD  it any other way..     Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CI have repaired 50 Harley Shovel Head cylinder heads in my career. They only have one 5/16 bolt holding the exhaust pipe in the head and it doesn't take much to break/strip the bolt....The only way I have done these and all have been successfulwas to open the side of the hole making the bottom of the hole accessible....thats the only way to repair a hole that small with TIG....you wont have any porosity and the new threads will be strong either  a tapped hole or some kind of insert....Your wasting your time  trying to WELD  it any other way..