Some tiggin I did.

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I am very new to the tig world. But i have really been enjoying it Everything on this is just a straight pass. I got over zealous on the bottom bracket. I decided to multipass it. Ended up warping. So I must now cut off and redo in a less warpy way. As is evident I have a lot improving to do, especialy on the round. Attachment 991971Attachment 991981Attachment 991991Attachment 992001Attachment 992011
Reply:This is stainless right? What are you building?
Reply:Looks to be mild steel tubing.What kind and size of filler and tungsten did you use? What amperage were you running? This could be a useful starting point for the more seasoned members when they give you their advice.Looking good Keep at it; practice is the mother of all skill!-NicheLast edited by NicheFab; 02-03-2015 at 03:11 AM.
Reply:looks real good.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Looks nice man.
Reply:I was running 1/8" rod and tungsten at 160 amps on my sync 250 with w26 air cooled torch. It warped because of the multiple passes. I cut it off tonight and i am welding a new one on tomorrow with a 1/4" bead and going to walk the cup. I know that is cheating, but it sure looks purt nice. A 6" mild steel block attaches to it, a gear goes into the block and then it rotates a 55 gallon drum. Thus the multi pass. This is all mild steel. I will have more pictures of the progress in the next couple of days.
Reply:I'm surprised it warped sense you had it clamped down. What rod, cup and cfh are you using?also which cup to walk the cup? I wanna start trying to walk the cup never have before. And I'm going to start welding 2 inch schedule 80 pipe
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313I'm surprised it warped sense you had it clamped down. What rod, cup and cfh are you using?also which cup to walk the cup? I wanna start trying to walk the cup never have before. And I'm going to start welding 2 inch schedule 80 pipe
Reply:I figured he warped the bottom plate with the holes in it. That's what a was doing the other night was doing dry runs but you guys always talk about not welding with to much torch angle and seems like walking the cup would give a crap load of angle. Ill try tonight on a flat or t joint. Do you usually do lay wire when walking the cup or can you dab?
Reply:Doing the good 'ol  piece of .045" filler rod along the center line of a flat plate underneath it, clamp then weld usually takes care of problems like that. Zapster is the king of that stuff. You can do a lot with shimming and specific clamping on stuff you need to keep flat.A rosebud on a torch is useful for straightening things out too. Depending on the job anyways.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:So I got everything cut off and ground today. I did a bunch of test coupons. I walked the cup on a couple of them. Looked nice. But I think that the length of time that was involved in running them put to much heat into them. So i just ran them tight. I think that it will be good enough for the application. I talked to the machinist today and he set many of my fears to rest. I will post pictures of everything completed.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313I figured he warped the bottom plate with the holes in it. That's what a was doing the other night was doing dry runs but you guys always talk about not welding with to much torch angle and seems like walking the cup would give a crap load of angle. Ill try tonight on a flat or t joint. Do you usually do lay wire when walking the cup or can you dab?
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Doing the good 'ol  piece of .045" filler rod along the center line of a flat plate underneath it, clamp then weld usually takes care of problems like that. Zapster is the king of that stuff. You can do a lot with shimming and specific clamping on stuff you need to keep flat.A rosebud on a torch is useful for straightening things out too. Depending on the job anyways.
Reply:Looks like the bead second from bottom went in a little cold. Thanks for the tips.