Quick and Easy Storage Racks

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Was trying to clean up my company's shop, we were so busy over the last year and a half after the tornados, I live in Oklahoma and so the shop just turned into a cluttered mess. So we went and got some 2" tubing with an 11 gauge wall. I cut one 24' stick into 4 6' sections, and the 20' stick I got I divided into 16 even pieces. Cut at a 15 degree angle, each angle cut was then used for the next angle cut. So in total 8 angle cuts and 8 straight cuts.Then it was as simple as weldin er up. We used some bridge to screw to the metal studs in the wall to distribute the load across the wall, then screwed the racks into the bridge. Not the cleanest job ive done, but there was limited time to be able to get it done and it wouldnt have made any difference if I had spent 3 more hours on it to clean everything perfect. It does its job nicely. Had to get the shop organized before we start this new project monday. Here are the pics! no need to try and reinvent the wheel on this one....Had pretty good fit up.Hope y'all enjoyed!
Reply:Nice and simple. Sweet!!
Reply:Sure got the job done.
Reply:Works....Measure with a micrometre, mark with chalk,  cut with a torch.Never force anything...just get a bigger hammer.RoyOld Airco buzz box approx 1974Lincoln mig pack 15Lincoln 175 square wave1954 9" south bend lathe
Reply:cant see the bottom, im sure the verticals and the weight are on the floor..?
Reply:Nope, the weight is only at bottom of uprights against wall....He needs to add footies to the bottom outriggers, but when he does he needs to consider that the bottom outriggers support the total lever arm moment of the uprights when loaded......Adding feet and perhaps gussets to the bottom outriggers where they join the uprights would insure the rack don't rip itself away from wall.I'd also attach crossing diagonal straps to backside of uprights.
Reply:Looks good. I made one as my second project.  Well worth the effort.Syncrowave 210HH140Victor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderNope, the weight is only at bottom of uprights against wall....He needs to add footies to the bottom outriggers, but when he does he needs to consider that the bottom outriggers support the total lever arm moment of the uprights when loaded......Adding feet and perhaps gussets to the bottom outriggers where they join the uprights would insure the rack don't rip itself away from wall.I'd also attach crossing diagonal straps to backside of uprights.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadcant see the bottom, im sure the verticals and the weight are on the floor..?
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderNope, the weight is only at bottom of uprights against wall....He needs to add footies to the bottom outriggers, but when he does he needs to consider that the bottom outriggers support the total lever arm moment of the uprights when loaded......Adding feet and perhaps gussets to the bottom outriggers where they join the uprights would insure the rack don't rip itself away from wall.I'd also attach crossing diagonal straps to backside of uprights.
Reply:Originally Posted by vettelvr75Doing all that would have achieved nothing but spending more time then was needed on this little job. The racks are bolted to some bridge channel, which is then bolted across the wall into every stud for the 10 foot length they are spread out. These racks are only for holding light gauge (20 and 25) metal framing studs and the like. There is maybe 300 lbs total on the whole rack in what is shown in the picture. If I was using the racks to hold steel, then I would have gone with a whole different design and add gussets and not attach it to the wall like we have it. but for what we are using it for it is more than enough.
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderMe sorry. I didn't intend to insult your rack.....I see now what it is used for and agree that's good nuff. I was misled by sweet square tube usually used to support much heavier loads, and only answering the guy's question about the bottom design.