Help With A Trailer Build Project

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I hope I'm posting this in the right forum, if not I'm a newbie, please forgive me. Anyway, I'm looking for advice from someone who has fabricated or built trailers and understands the safety aspect from a balance and build standpoint. I do tree work and members of the forum for my career or literally telling me it's going to be next to impossible to build. However, I've seen it done in person, I just didn't inspect how it was done. So here I am looking for advice and ideas.  1. I need to to make the trailer about five feet longer. The trailer is a brand new $9k dump trailer (16 feet Big-Tex.) A new trailer isn't in the budget, nor possible. So I have to work with what I have. I need to mount a Wood Chipper on the front of the trailer. The chipper will weight between 1,800 lbs and 2,500 lbs. depending on model. Yet I don't want to compromise any strength. I want to use the heaviest and strongest materials possible. 2. My idea is to build off of the frame on the front of the trailer and fabricate lots of reinforcement in between the frame. After extending, I'm going to lengthen the trailer hitch to restore the factory distance between the trailer and truck. My concerns and questions and where I'm looking for ideas:1. What kind of material would you use for the frame on the front and supports inside? I'm thinking of large C-Channel around the outside and square tubing on the inside?2. What would you use for the hitch?3. Most importantly, there is obviously going to be a lot of weight on the nose of the trailer. Then comes the question; should I add another axle in the front? Or would I be okay to move the current two axles forward?
Reply:First one here, I got the popcorn and  I highly recommend ordering a copy of this book.  It had all the math explained so you can figure out exactly what you need and where it needs to be.    Been out of print for a while but it's a good text.  Are you building this yourself or having a shop do it ?Trailers : How to Design and Build. Volume 2. Structure https://www.amazon.com/dp/0914483323..._sQeixb962CKFGLast edited by soutthpaw; 04-27-2016 at 01:17 AM.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:probably should check the dot and your state requirements for trailer regulations. they are cracking down in my parts about modified or unique trailer rigs. I have a friend who builds trailers and dump beds for a living. we are in the Chattanooga area. post your location and maybe someone local will reply with better info I can get you in touch with my friend who does that if needed.
Reply:There are a number of problems with your idea. Can it be done? yes. Will it be cost effective? Probably not.The basic idea of a trailer frame is a beam. You can't simply just add the same size material to a beam to make it longer and carry the same weight. Bending forces are related to weight carried, location, and beam length. Resistance to bending comes from material used and size of the members. Keep in mind though that the whole "beam" needs to be the same. You can't take a trailer with a frame that is 6" deep and tack something else on to it, no matter how strong it is, and not expect it to bend with the added length. The new stuff may be able to take the load, but the old stuff won't. So to do this right, you are looking at replacing the entire frame of the trailer end to end. sure there are ways to stiffen the existing frame, but to do that right, you'd need to hire an engineer to calculate the strengths of the materials and determine what you need to add where. It would be cheaper to replace the frame.2nd issue is going to be weight of the trailer. I don't know about where you live, but in PA as soon as a trailer exceeds 10K, you have to have a Class A commercial license, same as if you were driving a big rig. When the feds changed the laws on commercial vehicles a number of years back and this came into effect, almost all the guys I knew who had Gooseneck trailers or 12k or 14 K dumps all sold them off. It wasn't worth all the hassle and extra cost and paper work for those extra couple of K in weight they could haul occasionally. The only guys I knew who kept them already had CDLs and were towing other trailers with heavy equipment like backhoes or excavators.Adding 2500 lbs to the trailer will make a huge dent in what you can carry. At that point it's kind of pointless to have a 16' long trailer as you'll never be able to fill it and stay legal. You might as well just make life easier and take the 5' you want out of the existing box and make it an 11' dump trailer. At that point you have immensely simplified things as you can leave the frame alone for the most part and just cut down the box and shift the dumping gear.As far as adding a 3rd axle, most guys I know who have trailers like that hate them. They wear tires and don't trailer anywhere near as well as 2 axle trailers. Most don't keep them that long, or change out the axles to heavier 2 axle systems..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:First thing I will say is that I have never "adapted" a trailer and had it be cost effective. Every time when the final cost was calculated it would have been more cost effective to sell the current trailer, add that money together with the cost of adapting and end up with a better trailer and money left over.   That being said, without pictures of the trailer you have and how much you need to add good advice is impossible. Some general advice is posible tho. First generally speaking it's best to stick with one type material as mixing them creates extra difficulties and requires specific knowledge of how to do it to prevent stress cracking. So I would choose either tube or channel, but not a combination in most cases. There are times when a combo works good tho, but without knowing specifically what you have to work with it would be hard to tell.A 16' trailer probably already has a good hitch unless you want to change to gooseneck. A gooseneck hitch would be one solution to the added weight and length as the hitch could then carry the extra weight by itself and you could leave the wheels as they are.As far as the axles go, if you decide to stay with a bumper hitch then the only way you can maintain your current load in the box will be to add an extra axle. You will likely still need to cut the existing axles off and move them to maintain propper loaded ballance tho. The problem with your plan is that empty your weight is very far forward and if you move the axles forward to help that then when loaded you could end up with a rear heavy situation. That is very dangerous as it is the cause of trailer sway and can lead to loss of control.This is a very similar situation to another poster on here who asked me for help on a trailer that had a log loader on the rear with the log load in front. In that case he went with torflex axles because by not equalizing the axles helped with the ballance variabilty. With the loader on the rear it would have been very rear heavy and suseptable to sway. If he moved the axles back to help that then when the trailer was loaded he would have had to much weight up front. By going with torsion axles and mounting them with a little extra spread he solved that problem. With the trailer hitched properly the front is a bit higher than the rear which transfered the weight to the rear axle, lengthening the wheel base and eliminating the risk of sway. But as the load is added the front comes down putting the weight on the front axle so both carry the load. This would also be a solution for you as your problems will be similar, just reversed.If you post pics of what you have and give a better idea of the weight and size of what you want to add it will be easier to advise on how and what material to use.JonYeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Time for some old fashioned skillet popped pop corn.Friend, if you feel you are capable of doing that level of work on a large trailer, and have the tools and space necessary, why are you doing tree work?
Reply:Unless it's a goose neck, I'm going to say that's a no go due to tongue weight.  If it is a gooseneck, then I like DSW's idea of shortening the box to expose some frame.My name's not Jim....
Reply:What's the towing vehicle? 2000lb tongue weight is a lot .
Reply:Lots of good advice listed, as usual - and that book is a good one.My take: Cut out the main rails and replace with longer, heavier ones. Move axles forward to suit.DSW's method is easier, just chop the box shorter.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Take the loss and sell what you have and buy what you need. Minor improvements are fine but a proven manufactured trailer will remove all the guess work on what you need to do. If you cannot rebuild it to look professionally done and finished, the Police may give you grief , especially since it's a business. Post a picture of it and truck. Remember you need to stop this too.
Reply:My advice would be remove the dump box and hoist for re-use and build everything else from new.  Contact Big Tex and see what they would charge to build what you want.  Dan D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:My question would be, why have the chipper on the front? Going to make taking material to the chipper a pain, unless you intend to unhitch it from the tug, you just wont have clear access to get material in to the feed. It will also tend to "rear load" the trailer as it shoots the material to the back. So unless you totally fill the body, it is going to make the first set of traffic lights on the way home an interesting experience as the entire load moves forward, and keeping it in there is going to be interesting.Most of the setups around here to do this are a body truck, with the chipper on a small trailer behind shooting the chipped material in to the body truck. Then the truck can just unhitch the chipper, and dump the load of chipped material.
Reply:If you are planning on modifying a tow behind chipper on to the front of a dump trailer, why not just tow the chipper behind the dump trailer??  Depending on what state you live in of course.  It would be a hell of a lot easier to build a receiver on the back of the dump trailer, than a chipper on the front.  Then you could load the dump trailer from the rear, and not have to drag the chipper along for every load with the trailer, both would be far more useful as separate items.   Even if it's not a trailer mounted chipper, finding or building a small trailer to mount it to would be much easier and more practical than modifying the dump trailer.
Reply:The tongue weight will be too much for even a goose neck I think, let alone a bumper hitch. Shortening the bed space would be the best bet on this in my opinion.
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderTime for some old fashioned skillet popped pop corn.Friend, if you feel you are capable of doing that level of work on a large trailer, and have the tools and space necessary, why are you doing tree work?
Reply:Originally Posted by BobThe tongue weight will be too much for even a goose neck I think, let alone a bumper hitch. Shortening the bed space would be the best bet on this in my opinion.
Reply:Originally Posted by CaseyIf you are planning on modifying a tow behind chipper on to the front of a dump trailer, why not just tow the chipper behind the dump trailer??  Depending on what state you live in of course.  It would be a hell of a lot easier to build a receiver on the back of the dump trailer, than a chipper on the front.  Then you could load the dump trailer from the rear, and not have to drag the chipper along for every load with the trailer, both would be far more useful as separate items.   Even if it's not a trailer mounted chipper, finding or building a small trailer to mount it to would be much easier and more practical than modifying the dump trailer.
Reply:You're flat out guaranteed to be over on tongue weight with that heavy of a chipper on the front, even if you cut 4' off of the front of the box to do it.   Your best bet is to either find a much smaller chipper, or keep them separate.   What state are you in??Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:I'm just taking a guess of Austin Texas based on your screen name.  If so, towing doubles is completely legal as long as you're under 65' and the towing vehicle has an empty weight of more than 2500 pounds, both are things you wouldn't have a problem with.  All the other rules are the same as if you're towing one trailer.   My suggestion would be to save yourself all the trouble and cost of making two fully functional pieces of equipment, into one semi functional piece, and just hook the chipper to the back of the dump trailer, arrive at the job site, unhook the trailers and use whatever you towed them there with to back the chipper in place.  Then haul your chips all day long and hook everything back up to go home when you're done.  With just a little bit of practice, it's actually very easy to back up the two trailers together into to simple places and avoid having to unhitch and rehitch everything.   I know that sounds like a lot of messing around, but remember, you charge by the hour and the customer will be impressed that you saved so much time by bringing both pieces of equipment in one shot.   Here in California the laws are mostly the same, except we have to have a class A license and we are allowed to be over 65' if both trailers are under 28'6" each.  I know that makes no sense, but what here does.   I put a receiver on the back of my 18' Carson a long time ago and regularly tow another trailer behind it.  It comes in especially handy for moving tractors and whatever implement they have with them.  And because I know someone will ask, here's the Texas vehicle code stating that it's legal.
Reply:Not that I doubt you, it wouldn't be a hard learning curve to pull two hooked up to each other. And seeing that it's legal in (AUSTIN, TX) that wouldn't be an issue. The problem is I don't feel comfortable doing so. We passed laws here like a lot of places (NO TEXTING AND DRIVING). Since they passed it I've been hit in the butt of the trailer twice from someone texting and driving. We're one of the fastest growing cities in the country and traffic is getting to a point to where you can't leave the house at a certain time of the day. Pulling a trailer is a straight pain in the arse in bumper to bumper traffic. No-one here is friendly enough on the high-way to even let you change lanes. Pulling a longer set-up and pulling doubles on a daily basis, would be a straight pain in the arse. So my other option is mounting the chipper on the flatbed of the truck and just welding a longer discharge chute to blow straight into the trailer. With the chipper on the flat-bed, I can then move the chipper to either side of the trailer if need be. Getting a smaller chipper as mentioned above isn't an option. We're already going very small. (6-9") when we really need a 12". I don't think they make anything smaller then a 6" that will hold up to every day use. Plenty of 6" machine options though. 6" machines weight in around 1,800 lbs. If I go with an 8 or 9" they are going to be over 2,500. So my options are to find a way to mount 1,800 lbs to the trailer or the flat-bed route.
Reply:Ok.......OkLet's back up to original question.You already have the expensive 16' dump trailer and you want to add a large wood chipper to fill it with chips....and to haul the chips...and to then dump the chips....and you want the chipper mounted on hitch end of that trailer....maybe side feed the chipper sorta arrangement....Or unhitch and feed limbs into chipper from front of trailer....an all in one package deal where you bought the trailer first and then decided to repackage it.Myself......I dunno....Maybe I'd consider just hitching the chipper to my other truck and towing both to job site and directing chipper outfeed into dump trailer...but I don't do tree work like you do, so maybe you have best idea and willing to make it work out.Sorry I got in this thread and did the naysayer stuff when odds are you and those here will make it work out eventually.
Reply:wornout,You hit it on the head with your last post. Everything you mentioned, is exactly what I'm trying to do. As of pulling the chipper with a separate truck, this is how we currently do. I'm trying to work smarter, not harder though. Taking two trucks is costing us a fortune in gas with two one ton trucks, not to mention brakes, oil changes, depreciation on two vehicles, and so forth. You hit it on the head. Loading from the side is exactly what I'm trying to do. Most jobs, we pull street side, right side of the road going with traffic. So I'm trying to put the chipper with feed facing passenger side. Here's exactly what I wanted to do originally, except I was hoping to keep all 16 feet to dump.
Reply:Yup, that is what I eventually fingered out you intended....Thanks for the video.Looks like a decent setup. I fully understand why you want it to be an all in one package. It will halve your operating cost and insurance exposure....You can even unhitch it and use truck for errands and lunch and it will still function standalone.Ok, I'm out of here. Folks here got good advise and will help you get it figured out...It most certainly appears doable.
Reply:WornOut, I really appreciate your time and input. I should have been more clear-er and posted photo's of the trailer, video, and other information earlier in the thread. However, hopefully now some guys will chime in with some ideas after seeing photo's and example of exactly what I want. Again, thank you for your time and help.You nailed it right on the head. This set-up is for mostly commercial office work and I want to keep it as small as possible. Insurance isn't a big deal because the second truck is still going to require commercial insurance. The big thing is, that the other truck can now be used for a second crew, meaning double the income. But also, you got the idea. Sending two 1-ton trucks loaded with equipment and tools to one job-site, sitting in horrible traffic, and using gas for one job sends my "expenses per job" through the roof. A simpler set-up allows me to be more competitive. While I can compete with the non-tax paying, non-insured guys, I can compete with the bigger companies. I look forward to hearing anyone's advice and my ears are always open.Some other information I would like to put out there;Someone mentioned it being too much weight on the front. I can contest to this. I agree, throwing a 3k lb chipper on the front might be over-board. But I personally pulled a trailer for 3 years, daily, with a 2,500 lb spray rig on the front end. The Spray rig weighed approximately 800 lbs, and over 1,600 lbs. of chemical on board, totaling for 2,400 lbs. Drove this way for years. It wasn't a rig that you would go 100 down the high way pulling. But, never any major issues.
Reply:I've looked at the frame for a solid hour brain-storming and it looks easily doable in my opinion. My main concern is the axle placement. I'm going to look into the book mentioned above. I need to find a route to go, either adding an axle, or moving the current axles. I'm not too much concerned with weight or carrying capacity by adding an axle. The trailer is already rated at 14,000 lbs. I don't want to pull much more than that with my truck, so no reason to build a trailer to haul more if I can't do it. If I can get by with simply shifting the axles around, that would be great and less work.After reading thru this thread several times, I think I may have an economical solution. This is what I would do if I were in your shoes. As per DSW suggestion, shorten the box, whatever length you need for the chipper. then extend the box UP, to regain loss capacity. This would not require any modifying the frame, would not use much material, and not add much weight, would limit your downtime, and because the welding would not be critical, you could do it yourself. Also, as your not changing your balance point, you would not have to move your axles. You would keep the short length of the trailer for ease of parking, ect. The only problem I see would be modifying the dump feature so the chipper would stay with the stationary bed of the frame. Hope this helps.Last edited by Forneycator; 04-28-2016 at 07:30 AM.
Reply:Your existing trailer weighs probably about 4500-5000 lbs empty leaving you around 9K that you can legally haul. Putting a 2500lb chipper on the frame is going to reduce your load payload capacity by roughly 28%. 28% of 16' is almost 5', so if you cut down the bed by 5', you really wouldn't loose any weight carrying capacity if you wanted to say at 14K max.Keep in mind that besides the chipper, adding frame weight decreases your payload as well. weight you can't use to carry chips if you want to stay at 14K max. Also since you are so concerned about driving a trailer around in traffic, the very last thing I'd want to do is make the trailer any longer than it already is. 5' of trailer is going to make a huge difference on turning that trailer..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You might be able to to so it. With by moving back axle in  front of the front one. then adding the addition length for the main body of the trailer with an extra foot of tongue length to offset the extra weight to the front of the trailer. Here is the formula for the weight is 60% on the front of the main body of the trailer.  You will to add some very thick gusset where you extend the main body and a complete new build of the tongue.  I would also think about doing some sort of truss system under the tongue too to help offset the extra torsion that would be applied. The tongue rails would need to be carried almost to where the front axle would be relocated to.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:Originally Posted by ForneycatorAfter reading thru this thread several times, I think I may have an economical solution. This is what I would do if I were in your shoes. As per DSW suggestion, shorten the box, whatever length you need for the chipper. then extend the box UP, to regain loss capacity. This would not require any modifying the frame, would not use much material, and not add much weight, would limit your downtime, and because the welding would not be critical, you could do it yourself. Also, as your not changing your balance point, you would not have to move your axles. You would keep the short length of the trailer for ease of parking, ect. The only problem I see would be modifying the dump feature so the chipper would stay with the stationary bed of the frame. Hope this helps.
Reply:Can you go with a gooseneck? If so that is your best option. And cutting that tongue off and adding it would not be hard and could easily be done to add the extra strength you need. There will be no way to add the extra to the front without exceding tongue weight limits and maintaining propper balance without a complete redo otherwise. What is your tow vehicle?Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Yes this is exactly what I was about to post it can be illegal and very dangerous to do your own kind of welding on trailers if you're involved in an accident and DOT finds that he should not have been welding on a trailer you could be in big do do  Originally Posted by Michael rayprobably should check the dot and your state requirements for trailer regulations. they are cracking down in my parts about modified or unique trailer rigs. I have a friend who builds trailers and dump beds for a living. we are in the Chattanooga area. post your location and maybe someone local will reply with better info I can get you in touch with my friend who does that if needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by vdotmatrixYes this is exactly what I was about to post it can be illegal and very dangerous to do your own kind of welding on trailers if you're involved in an accident and DOT finds that he should not have been welding on a trailer you could be in big do do
Reply:You should be able to carry that much tongue weight behind a one ton truck, especially if it is a dual wheel and the hitch is close to the axle. If the rear frame is long and the hitch is a long way from the wheels you should be careful. To be legal you will need to go with a heavy pintle hitch like this one.http://catalog.redneck-trailer.com/a...250&WEBID=3881Make sure you get a tow ring that is also rated high enough to carry the load, then you should be ok. Lengthening the trailer to mount the chipper on the front is really not that much of an issue as long as your tow vehicle can carry the weight. And if your tow vehicle is a one ton dually that should be ok. Adding an axle to the front would help, but I don't think it is really neccessary for what you want to do as long as your truck is set up like I said, and a third axle is usually a maintainance problem. You should post a pic of that too so we can see exactly what we're dealing with there too.JonLast edited by welderj; 05-01-2016 at 11:53 AM.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:What a lot of the local enforcement are looking at is the fact most people overload their trailer after modifying them. So this where they get in trouble about homemade model designs. Like taking a garden tractor trailer and then adding  4ftsides so they can exceed the original weight limits of the trailer.  By loading dirt, gravel or anything heavy in them. They take HF trailer with only a 1500lbs limit to carry 3000lbs  and never change axles,tires or strengthening the frame or hitch.  That is the big crack down.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:Originally Posted by tinker001What a lot of the local enforcement are looking at is the fact most people overload their trailer after modifying them. So this where they get in trouble about homemade model designs. Like taking a garden tractor trailer and then adding  4ftsides so they can exceed the original weight limits of the trailer.  By loading dirt, gravel or anything heavy in them. They take HF trailer with only a 1500lbs limit to carry 3000lbs  and never change axles,tires or strengthening the frame or hitch.  That is the big crack down.
Reply:Originally Posted by CaseyThe violation is for overloading the weight rating of the vehicle, it has absolutely nothing to do with it being modified and the fact that it was modified is in no way illegal or in violation.  What the OP needs to keep in mind is that the trailer has a tongue weight rating from the factory, and that the 2000 pound chipper on the front is going to be well over that.  The other thing is that as soon as he has the tongue cut and extended, the manufacturer will in no way stand behind that tongue rating.  As far as the law would be concerned on this specific topic.  It doesn't matter how incredibly strong he makes the tongue with the modifications, it will only be legally rated to whatever the manufacture gave it when they built it, despite the fact that it's been modified from stock.  The contrary is also true, no matter how bad one flimsy of a job was done on the modification, the DOT will recognize the manufactures original weight rating even if it could never hold it.
Reply:Op, what welding machine would you use for the welding?What past welding experience do you have?Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopOp, what welding machine would you use for the welding?What past welding experience do you have?
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjAfraid he's going to use a hf 110v mig? LolJon
Reply:Originally Posted by tinker001You missed the whole point of what was said by me. Someone made the statement that is the area they are in. That the local enforcement was cracking down on modified trails. I was pointing out the why of the crackdown. There is nothing in the books about changing or modifying  a trailer  has long has you meet the standards  for weight limit, axle rating, tire ratings, length, height and  tongue weight has to do with truck pulling it ( ie 5th wheel  trailers and construction equipment trailers which has a tongue rating higher than 2000 lbs).The contrary is also true, no matter how bad one flimsy of a job was done on the modification, the DOT will recognize the manufactures original weight rating even if it could never hold it. This is where and what I was referring too people exceed the ratings of the design. Now if you take a trailer and modify the  frame,axles and tires to meet the heavier load.  Then their is no reason for DOT to get excited about upping the trailer load capacity or design. Now lets say I have a 16ft utility single axle trailer rated for 2500lbs. I decide to  add an axle at the same rating has the original axle, strengthen the frame and tongue to carry more weight. What you are saying then is I can not do this. Right? There is nothing any where says I can not do this. Then It is reclassified has home built and has to pass a safety check. That is all. I can not use the original  weight registration for that trailer This is where most people are getting caught doing. Now if I do not change the weight rating or over load the trailer from what it was originally plated for then no problems from any one. Most of what has been discussed is not changing the rating for the OP Just the length and where weight is on the trailer.
Reply:Originally Posted by CaseyAs far as your adding an axle scenario, no, you cannot do that as you described.  Even after you added the axle and beefed up the frame, that trailer still has its original vin number, and that vin number has a whole bunch of manufacture specs tied to it that still limit it to the original weight rating as it left the factory.   You also can not, legally, re register it as a home built trailer, because it is not a home built trailer.   The only legal way to get a higher rating on a factory built trailer, is to have the manufacture approve the modifications done, re-spec the trailer at a higher rating, give it a new vin tag with the original vin number and a new weight rating.  But good luck getting them to do that. What I was originally referring to was the post about you being in a huge amount of trouble if you modified a trailer and the DOT found out you welded on it.   You can weld on a trailer or any other vehicle all you want, want you can't do is change the weight rating of a trailer.   Yes you can build one from scratch and get it rated to whatever specs you build it to, but only the manufacturer can change the rating of a factory built trailer.   All of this is irrelevant however, because the OP has no desire to change any weight ratings.   I was simply correcting the very wrong information that modifying a trailer is illegal.
Reply:Originally Posted by tinker001Where are you getting your information from? There are tons of trailers out there that have never been of ever seen a trailer manufacture. That are perfect legal nor are they home-built. Look at large air compressor and specialty build equipment trailer. Those manufactures are not trailer manufactures they are equipment manufactures.Please get your facts straight. what you are saying that if any one decides to build anything but a manufacture it's not legal to be on the road. How bout the guys that build modified street cars. They change  about everything on the car is that not legal too. All you need to have is what is called a safety check on anything modified that will go across public roadways. This is do according  to the local enforcement agency.
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjActually, these laws very a lot from state to state. You could both be right depending on what state you live in. I have never seen any laws stating that trailers can't be modified tho. And as far as I know dot regs do not use trailer ratings,  but use component ratings, so a trailers capacity as far as dot is concerned is whatever the lowest component is rated for. So if you add an axle and go from 14k to 21k, but still use the 14k rated coupler the trailer is still rated at 14k. If you update all the components to meet 21k then the trailer is good for 21k. But then the laws are changing quickly now so that info may not be current.Jon
Reply:Just as a side note, I'm thinking the chipper on the tongue (front) of the trailer would be a real inconvenient pain. Real production killer. Only feed from on side, in the middle of the pack where everything has to be drug past the cargo section of the trailer or past the tow vehicle. i can see maybe on advantage and that would be when it comes time to dump the load, but that's about it."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Some laws vary from state to state as far as registration and inspections go.  But the federal DOT laws are the same across the board.   Trailers, just like all other vehicles have their individual component ratings, and a gross vehicle weight rating.  No matter how strong the rest of the components are, you can't go over the gvwr.  The trailer mounted compressors and generators that were mentioned are in fact, factory built trailers in the eyes of the DOT.  There are a few states where the little small ones don't need registration.  But in most states, and all of the larger trailers are in fact registered with the DMV of whatever state they are in as trailers.    Any trailer that is not built by a licensed trailer manufacture is registered as a special construction and has SPCN on the title as the make.   My company does heavy haul as well as equipment repair, and we build a lot of our own specialty heavy haul equipment.   I've been through the ringer with weight ratings, registrations, state by state laws and DOT inspections, I have my facts more than straight.   There are trailers that we modify from stock, and there are trailers that we build completely from scratch so that we don't have to deal with trying to get the manufacture to change the gvwr after we change them to fit our application.   Trailers are something I know very well, and since a lot of the loads we haul have to escorted by DOT officers who inspect the entire setup before we can start our trip, the laws regarding trailers are also something I know very well.    Another thing I know very well is that none of this has anything to do with the original post.  All I was trying to correct was the fact that someone said it was illegal to weld on a trailer, which is completely false information no matter what state you're in.
Reply:So back to the original topic.  The first thing that needs to be done, is to call Big Tex and ask them what the vertical tongue load rating on that coupler for that trailer is.  That right there will tell weather this idea is a go or not.   My guess is that a 2000 pound chipper on the tongue of that trailer is too much, especially taking into account the weight it would already have on it when you fill the bed up.   Then whatever you are pulling it with needs the to be rated for a high enough vertical tongue load.  It doesn't matter weather it's a dusky or single rear wheel, the hitch on it will have a rating that you can't exceed.   If you are under all those ratings, by all means go for it.  But if not, this idea is already dead in the water with the equipment you have, and it's time to start looking at other options
Reply:Originally Posted by CaseySo back to the original topic.  The first thing that needs to be done, is to call Big Tex and ask them what the vertical tongue load rating on that coupler for that trailer is.  That right there will tell weather this idea is a go or not.   My guess is that a 2000 pound chipper on the tongue of that trailer is too much, especially taking into account the weight it would already have on it when you fill the bed up.   Then whatever you are pulling it with needs the to be rated for a high enough vertical tongue load.  It doesn't matter weather it's a dusky or single rear wheel, the hitch on it will have a rating that you can't exceed.   If you are under all those ratings, by all means go for it.  But if not, this idea is already dead in the water with the equipment you have, and it's time to start looking at other options
Reply:I fully agree with that, the weight wouldn't be a problem with either one as far as the trailer side of things is concerned.   The problem is that he already has the trailer and has said that another trailer isn't an option.   So he needs to call Big Tex and see what they say for a tongue load on the trailer he has.  If it is good, then the trailer will still have that rating as no matter what he does to extend the tongue, and he'll be legal
Reply:Originally Posted by CaseyI fully agree with that, the weight wouldn't be a problem with either one as far as the trailer side of things is concerned.   The problem is that he already has the trailer and has said that another trailer isn't an option.   So he needs to call Big Tex and see what they say for a tongue load on the trailer he has.  If it is good, then the trailer will still have that rating as no matter what he does to extend the tongue, and he'll be legal
Reply:Physically, yes you are correct.  Legally, no.  That trailer will still have its original vin number given by Big Tex and all the ratings it had when it rolled out of the factory still apply, no matter how heavily it's been modified.  The only way any of those ratings would change in the eyes of the law is if Big Tex themselves signed off on the changes, re rated the trailer and gave it a new data plate with the original vin number still on it.  We have done this same thing when building heavy haul trucks out of standard ones.   We replaced a couple of 12,000 pound capacity front axles with 22,000 pound front axles and springs.  Despite the fact the trucks could now handle the weight, we had to take them into Kenworth, have them inspect the changes, sign off on everything and create a new data plate to put on the door frame of the trucks.  They have to put it in themselves, and until all that is done, the DOT will only recognize the weight rating the vehicle originally had when it was built.  They can run the vin number and get that information any time.   Keep in mind my advice is how to change the weight rating legally.   You can absolutely build and strong enough tongue, load it up and go to work without a problem.  It would be absolutely fine until you got checked.   But, I don't think the OP wants to go through any of that, he just wants to use the trailer he has, extend the frame in front of the box and mount a heavy chipper on it.  The big question is, weather that will work or not.   Can you physically do it??  Absolutely.   Will it be too much tongue weight on that trailer??  I think so.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk