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I want to build a custom mirror frame for my bathroom, what type of hardware etc. do I need to purchase/fabricate to hold the mirror glass in so if (hopefully never) it breaks and needs to be replaced I can remove it?
Reply:What are you making it out of?
Reply:I have seen in some homemade frames, a recess cut with a forstner bit where the edge overlaps the glass and then a fender style (larger than normal) washer and a small screw to hold art work/glass in frame. This is assuming that you have a lip to hold the glass from falling through the front of the frame. Two or three on each side will secure the mirror in the frame really well. I have used this on my wife's stained glass panels for our kitchen cabinets.
Reply:For starters, install the mirror after you hammer out the frame. They make little plastic clips for glass in cabinet doors or wood mirror frames, you could tap the mirror frame for screws to attach them.
Reply:A bit of channel or short pieces (like a lip) on the bottom to support the weight and a couple of tabs here and there to secure the sides and top should do it. Look at how glass is held in a picture frame.Post more details and someone will have a good suggestion.Duct tape and Gorilla glue have their uses. "USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumA bit of channel or short pieces (like a lip) on the bottom to support the weight and a couple of tabs here and there to secure the sides and top should do it. Look at how glass is held in a picture frame.Post more details and someone will have a good suggestion.Duct tape and Gorilla glue have their uses.
Reply:I made this and used pieces of rubber in clamp pieces to hold the mirror to the frame. Once in place and the metal is finished, they can hardly be seenYou can do a variation of this however you want. It's quite sturdy and hold in tightly. It could always be siliconed in place too. Just depends on how you want to construct it and where it's being mounted. Attached ImagesExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by Michael rayyour know they have Gorilla duct tape now, next best thing to a 7018
Reply:Thanks Dick. I'm still hoping I may get a second chance Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:How thick is the mirror ? Maybe a '' U '' channel for it to slide in from the top.
Reply:I want to get it finished and move on to some stainless forging. I bought a sheet of 1/8' mystery stainless at the scrapyard. The mirror frame is all cleaned up, I have to put a hanger on it and get it heat colored. Really hoping I can get some stuff done this summer.High hopes JT523, here's some extra shots of how I constructed this frame. It's made from several cut and forged pieces which were made individually then welded together and metal finished with a needle scaler at a dull red heat. I dunno exactly what you have in mind for a frame, but keep in mind that in a moisture heavy environment like a bathroom, it will either need to be coated with a clear urethane or lacquer, or better yet plated to keep the metal from rusting. Beeswax works too, but it will need mantainance from time to time or it will rust.You could make it out of a stainless steel material, but unless you have a suitable way to heat the material and keep it heated, forging stainless is going to be harder than working in mild steel. I've yet to do anything in stainless, but everything I've been reading suggests it's a lot harder to work with than mild steel.Post some pix of your idea, I'm sure someone can give you some ideas in addition to mine. Attached ImagesExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1How thick is the mirror ? Maybe a '' U '' channel for it to slide in from the top.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749... I'm still hoping I may get a second chance
Reply:Yeah, I know how that goes too Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I want to get it finished and move on to some stainless forging. I bought a sheet of 1/8' mystery stainless at the scrapyard. The mirror frame is all cleaned up, I have to put a hanger on it and get it heat colored. Really hoping I can get some stuff done this summer.High hopes JT523, here's some extra shots of how I constructed this frame. It's made from several cut and forged pieces which were made individually then welded together and metal finished with a needle scaler at a dull red heat. I dunno exactly what you have in mind for a frame, but keep in mind that in a moisture heavy environment like a bathroom, it will either need to be coated with a clear urethane or lacquer, or better yet plated to keep the metal from rusting. Beeswax works too, but it will need mantainance from time to time or it will rust.You could make it out of a stainless steel material, but unless you have a suitable way to heat the material and keep it heated, forging stainless is going to be harder than working in mild steel. I've yet to do anything in stainless, but everything I've been reading suggests it's a lot harder to work with than mild steel.Post some pix of your idea, I'm sure someone can give you some ideas in addition to mine.
Reply:Use 2 pieces of flat stock, over lapped to give a recess in the back and just silicone it in. Use GE brand caulk, it is a glue and a caulk, the best there is.
Reply:Man, thanks Rich. I don't even have to say that coming from you, it means a lot..You have kinda become my hero for stainless stuff around here. I'm really hoping to get some in the forge soon and see what I can do with it. I have some pieces in mind where I want a combination or bright and black metal. I would usually accomplish this with plating, but the only local plating outfit we had here burned to the ground six years ago. That was a sad, sad day because they had been here since the 50s and were very, very reasonable on pricing.Now, you're driving to Detroit or farther for a competent plating outfit that doesn't cost a fortune. There's one up in Saginaw I want to try out, but they never answer their phone, and their SOP is to just cold call you back to ask what you wanted. The guy didn't even identify himself when he called me back, luckily I remembered the majority of their number had a lot of 7s in it so I knew who it was when they called me back. I spent ten minutes with the guy on the phone and couldn't get a single dollar amount out of him as far as a minimum charge for something very standard as a gauge to feel him out on price.No way I'm driving 1.5 hours away, leaving a 50 hour piece with him, then have the guy drop a bomb on me when I finally get it back. So, the plan is to replace the plated pieces with stainless and see how it works out. If it turns out to be a total nightmare I'll just have to make the trip down to Detroit wether I like it or not I'll post a thread on it soon. Got one more machine to finish then I'm gonna hit it hard.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Well, to make your head even bigger, I wouldn't even know where to begin to make something like that.Rich
Reply:Likewise on just about all the stuff you build too The quick 411 on this stuff is I use French curve templates to get a basic idea on a pattern, then I sketch it on to the material. I cut it with plasma, then do all the profile finish work with a belt grinder and a few other tools. After I heat it, I use a trailer hitch ball to make the initial depressions on the convex, or I'll use a V or swage block for the concave side. I use a needle scaler to distress the metal, and it also creates a drawing domed effect on the metal if you work it at a bright red, almost orange heat. I alternate between hammer and scaler, and also have some air hammers I can use to work the metal as well. The scaler doesn't create drastic changes, you can draw a little at a time until you get the desired rise and radius on the piece.That frame is made out of like ten basic individual pieces, which I worked to shape, then joined together. They are mig welded, not forge welded. Wire welding seems to work the best since it works well without the metal having to be as clean as it does when TIG welding it. It was a lot of trial and error, but I have a system down now that works pretty well. I've done some picture frames too, kinda the same deal.Last edited by 7A749; 05-15-2016 at 09:57 PM.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:I only have one on my iPad. I made this for a friend of my moms. The guy (their only son) was a softball coach. He went thru a real bad divorce and took his own life. Left two teenage girls behind. Only about five years older than me. It was really sad.Didn't mean to hijack. The finish on this was done with a propane torch and oil. Maybe an idea for the mirror frame the OP mentioned? Has a clear poly coat on it. Attached ImagesLast edited by 7A749; 05-15-2016 at 10:06 PM.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:I've used epoxy to attach hardware to backs of mirrors in the past..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I would be heavily leaning towards an epoxy or tube type adhesive myself too. A lot of the stuff I've done in recent past has been permenantly mounted in the frame. For something like a mirror in a wall hanging application, I think the adhesive route would be the best bet.IMHO of courseExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:JT523 Originally Posted by JT523I want to build a custom mirror frame for my bathroom, what type of hardware etc. do I need to purchase/fabricate to hold the mirror glass in so if (hopefully never) it breaks and needs to be replaced I can remove it?
Reply:That was kind of my idea, I was going to make the outside of the frame from 3"x3/8" flat bar and make a frame on the back of it from 1 1/2"x1/4" flat bar for the mirror to sit in. Silicone should work fine, thanks manwhoops meant to quote that, tough crowd around here lol. I may just have to go back to lurkingLast edited by JT523; 05-17-2016 at 10:21 PM. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:06:19