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Hello I am new on here and have questions on sa 200 red face . I have inherited this from my fatherinlaw. The machine has set for years. I cleaned and freed the brushes on the exciter end and generator end. Replaced a couple of rat eaten wires 1 at a time. I replaced the aux. plug and now have 115 DC on plug when I started I had 4 volts. Also checked rheostat and it was bad so I replaced . Still now when I try to strike a arc I see just a little spark if I look close orange spark. I checked continuity on my leads and they show good. This machine has a generator and regulator that is not hooked to battery and a magneto on other side. What could be my problem? Would the generator not being hooked up affect welder ? I have tried to excite the exciter with 12 volts any other clues for help? Thanks to all answers ahead of posting
Reply:I will take a stab at it. Duane or others will be along later to give you more. Have you stoned the armature yet? Also the idle RPM needs to be 1000 to get the necessary output from the exciter to make the main generator work. Try pinning the R57 idler at high idle (1550 RPM) and see if the arc is any betterSteveLincoln SA200 (1966 Redface)Lincoln IdealArc 250Steve1990 Miller Dialarc 2501993 Miller Maxstar 140 STR2015 Lincoln MP2101966 Lincoln SA200 Redface
Reply:Thanks Steve I will try cleaning and raising RPM
Reply:Dwilso5 - to answer your question regarding the battery charging generator not being hooked up, it has no affect on the welding generator.The fact you have 115VDC at the auxiliary receptacle confirms the exciter generator is working properly and as such "flashing" is not required should you read about or consider this procedure.Have you checked the Open Circuit Voltage (OCV) at the weld output studs? With the rheostat set to 100, OCV should be in the high 80's to 90's.If your OCV is only a few volts, you should check the main generator shunt coils combined resistance. This is done by removing the blue wire from the rheostat, remove the black lead from the right exciter brush holder and check for 40ohms +/- between the blue and black wires. The two shunt coil leads are blue and brown but the brown wire is connected to the black exciter wire in the harness which is why you can check main shunt coil resistance at this exciter brush black wire. You can also check from the black wire terminal at the auxiliary receptacle without removing the black lead from the right exciter brush but you MUST lift and isolate the right exciter brush from the armature commutator AND still disconnect the blue wire from the rheostat to avoid a false reading thru the armature or exciter coils.If this test shows an open circuit (OL or 0 reading on your VOM) then track down the brown/black wire connection by following the black wire back from the auxiliary power receptacle and check it for being good. If the connection is good, recheck for coil resistance now between the brown and blue wires and if still getting a OL or 0 reading there is a good possibility one of the main shunt coils has failed. However, seeing as rodents did a job on some of the other wires, it could be possible that they chewed thru either the blue or brown wire inside the generator housing OR the interconnecting coil leads also inside the housing. You should also locate where the interconnecting coil leads are joined together and check it too as a poor/open connection there as well. This connection will be found on the air cleaner side of the generator at approximately the 4-5 o'clock position with the main brush cover removed and normally tucked under the larger series coils leads.The factory connector looks like this:MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Thanks that is good information I will check and let you know |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:05:58