Hobart EZ-TIG™ 165i TIG Welder

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I would like to hear from the experienced TIG welders.Looking for an entry level TIG welder that I can use for building aluminum parts for laser tag special effects.  This is low volume, specialized and right now just prototypes.Budget - I'd like to keep it under $2000.Skills: comfortable with stick welding on a wide range of steels (Hobart LX235), comfortable with OA welding on sheet metalLooking at Hobart Ez-Tig http://store.cyberweld.com/hotigweez16.htmlI don't have anyone to teach me so I will be learning on my own (leaning on the Internet forums), taught myself on OA and SMAW so I am guessing I can make this work too Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:165 amps is probably not enough for aluminum. I would say at least 200 maybe more. This is a good choice http://store.cyberweld.com/tharc186acti.html If you can stretch your budget, this is a better choice I think:  http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-WELDER-In...70221-12.5.htmAnd you can NEVER go wrong with a decent used transformer TIG, e.g., Synchrowave or Lincoln Precision TIGMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Thanks Louie, I am still working on how to sell the idea to my wife.  She tolerates a lot of tool purchases but I think that this might be pushing her limits.Is the higher current the only reason you recommend this over the hobart that I linked to or are there other features that you think the Hobart is missing?The comments on the cyberweld site show good feedback on both units.  I absolutely love my Hobart stick welder so I was thinking I would be happy with their EZ-Tig.  The LWS I go to services Miller/Hobart welders too (had mine in their shop once).Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:The Miller site has a welding calculator- use it for the size aluminum you wish to weld and see what the required amps are.Then, see if the ex-TIG can do it- also look at the duty cycle for the machine.I've used a Miller Diversion 165 and it would do 1/8" but that was at high end of amp settings and for short welds.Everyone one agrees 165amps is low and these size machines are entry level.I got the bug and bumped up to larger machine.Good luck,DB
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyThanks Louie, I am still working on how to sell the idea to my wife.  She tolerates a lot of tool purchases but I think that this might be pushing her limits.Is the higher current the only reason you recommend this over the hobart that I linked to or are there other features that you think the Hobart is missing?The comments on the cyberweld site show good feedback on both units.  I absolutely love my Hobart stick welder so I was thinking I would be happy with their EZ-Tig.  The LWS I go to services Miller/Hobart welders too (had mine in their shop once).
Reply:When I have ot weld thicker material with SMAW I run more than one pass.  Is this approach acceptable for TIG?  Is it unreasonable to expect to weld 1/4 in 2 passes using the lighter machine?Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyWhen I have ot weld thicker material with SMAW I run more than one pass.  Is this approach acceptable for TIG?  Is it unreasonable to expect to weld 1/4 in 2 passes using the lighter machine?
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveUnfortunately for aluminum it is unreasonable.The ability of aluminum to take heat away (approx 5 times more thermally conductive) from where you are putting it is much greater than with steel.As a result, you have to dump heat in faster than it is carried away.In fact, after you lay the first bead, you will often need even more amps to lay the second (it's thicker now).
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyThanks, that is helpful to know.  I would like to be able to handle up to 1/4" so it looks like I need to look at scaling up a bit.
Reply:I bought my syncrowave for $450. Very good deals are out there if you are patient. I know of a number of folks that weld aluminum with no frills (e.g., no balance adjustment, no frequency adjustment, no pulse, etc.) and they get by no problem. I kind of like my syncrowave though...square wave AC wave form helps clean the aluminum oxides, has a balance control, goes up to 310 amps. Seems like a nice compromise versus any of the inverters that cost a lot more money (double or more of what I paid). I give up frequency control and pulse, but for the amount of aluminum welding I do, it is not an issue. The beauty shot is that the syncrowave is a MUCH better stick welder than the Hobart Stickmate (I used to own one). I had a stickmate and an AHP alphatig...got rid of them both when I got the syncrowave. It was just better for me/my needs.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:A critical issue is the question of what do you have for electrical service.  The old transformer TIG are wonderfully durable, but they eat power.  A used Syncro or Lincoln TIG would be a good choice if you have at least 60-70 amp on legit 230v service.  My supposed "230v"service actually measures low 220-something at the tap.  You need a 100+ amps for the full 310 amp output of a Syncro 250.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:50a 220vHobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:OK, transformer unit won't be doing 1/4" aluminum on that.  If you can push the budget, HTP 221 is plenty of power for 1/4", runs full bore on 50a service and is a unit you will not "outgrow" as far as adjust-ability.  If that $2k budget is a hard #, then perhaps the TA186 is a better choice than the Hobart 165 just based on output.  You can do 1/4" plate with either, if you're willing to preheat and/or go slowly cooking the heck out of the material.  If these are heat treated parts......not so good.  If it's cosmetic stuff, well, it's cosmetic stuff.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:actually there is a lot of confusion and urban myth surrounding transformer machines. Yes, my Syncrowave draws 92 amps on full power (310 amps) but that doesn't mean I need a 100 amp circuit in the usual sense. Per the Miller owner's manual I am running it on 6 gauge conductor with a 100 amp breaker. I was running it on the 50 amp breaker and could easily get up to 225 -230 amps no problem. Since I already had 6 gauge installed, all I had to do was upgrade the breaker. If he finds himself a deal on a syncrowave 200 or a precision TIG 225...that may not be a bad way to go.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:My starter machine was Lincoln Squarewave 175 and when I found a Syncrowave 250 I was on it like stink on a monkey.I would look for an older main stream brand transformer before I bought new......don't over look the Dialarc HF, great old machine that most don't want because it's just an old, outdated welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961actually there is a lot of confusion and urban myth surrounding transformer machines. Yes, my Syncrowave draws 92 amps on full power (310 amps) but that doesn't mean I need a 100 amp circuit in the usual sense. Per the Miller owner's manual I am running it on 6 gauge conductor with a 100 amp breaker. I was running it on the 50 amp breaker and could easily get up to 225 -230 amps no problem. Since I already had 6 gauge installed, all I had to do was upgrade the breaker. If he finds himself a deal on a syncrowave 200 or a precision TIG 225...that may not be a bad way to go.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI use a beast of an old transformer based machine - 470 amps max and 900 lbs of awesome On aluminum I'm at 230 amps often.They are cheap, often under $600 - and they work.  Mine was $225 and I've used it for 3 years now - excellent machine.There are several used heavy machines that are more modern, and still under $2000 used.  Syncrowave 250 is one of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbWhat is the input amps that that unit draws?
Reply:I run my Syncro 250 on a 70amp circuit at low 220 something actual volts.  I start popping the breaker if/when I get over 230'ish indicated output.  This is wired with AWG-6.He could try a Syncro or similar and if it works, great.  If not, he could almost certainly turn it around for little/no loss.  Might be an option.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:If you wanna weld AL you would just need to preheat to 250 or more.
Reply:Ken, you should put a larger breaker in. It should be quite safe on 6 gauge up to a 100 amp breaker.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313If you wanna weld AL you would just need to preheat to 250 or more.
Reply:I could, but it's not my building.  It was a 50 amp and I had a 70 amp breaker lying around and the building maintenance guy swapped it in for me when we happened to be there on a weekend.  The electrical is pretty scheisty, according to "them" they have to kill power to the entire panel to swap in and that goes over about as well as a wet fart in church during the work week.  It's not a big deal.  I don't TIG much at work anyways and I'm really trying to take all my gear home to avoid coworkers.None of which applies to the OP, lol.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:Look at the new miller syncrowave 210 or the 186 tweco. Both are low power draw and seem to be great entry level tigs.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI'm too impatient for that   I just turn up the dial and let it eatI would like to hear from the experienced TIG welders.Looking for an entry level TIG welder that I can use for building aluminum parts for laser tag special effects.  This is low volume, specialized and right now just prototypes.Budget - I'd like to keep it under $2000.Skills: comfortable with stick welding on a wide range of steels (Hobart LX235), comfortable with OA welding on sheet metalLooking at Hobart Ez-Tig http://store.cyberweld.com/hotigweez16.htmlI don't have anyone to teach me so I will be learning on my own (leaning on the Internet forums), taught myself on OA and SMAW so I am guessing I can make this work too Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:165 amps is probably not enough for aluminum. I would say at least 200 maybe more. This is a good choice http://store.cyberweld.com/tharc186acti.html If you can stretch your budget, this is a better choice I think:  http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-WELDER-In...70221-12.5.htmAnd you can NEVER go wrong with a decent used transformer TIG, e.g., Synchrowave or Lincoln Precision TIGMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Thanks Louie, I am still working on how to sell the idea to my wife.  She tolerates a lot of tool purchases but I think that this might be pushing her limits.Is the higher current the only reason you recommend this over the hobart that I linked to or are there other features that you think the Hobart is missing?The comments on the cyberweld site show good feedback on both units.  I absolutely love my Hobart stick welder so I was thinking I would be happy with their EZ-Tig.  The LWS I go to services Miller/Hobart welders too (had mine in their shop once).Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:The Miller site has a welding calculator- use it for the size aluminum you wish to weld and see what the required amps are.Then, see if the ex-TIG can do it- also look at the duty cycle for the machine.I've used a Miller Diversion 165 and it would do 1/8" but that was at high end of amp settings and for short welds.Everyone one agrees 165amps is low and these size machines are entry level.I got the bug and bumped up to larger machine.Good luck,DB
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyThanks Louie, I am still working on how to sell the idea to my wife.  She tolerates a lot of tool purchases but I think that this might be pushing her limits.Is the higher current the only reason you recommend this over the hobart that I linked to or are there other features that you think the Hobart is missing?The comments on the cyberweld site show good feedback on both units.  I absolutely love my Hobart stick welder so I was thinking I would be happy with their EZ-Tig.  The LWS I go to services Miller/Hobart welders too (had mine in their shop once).
Reply:When I have ot weld thicker material with SMAW I run more than one pass.  Is this approach acceptable for TIG?  Is it unreasonable to expect to weld 1/4 in 2 passes using the lighter machine?Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyWhen I have ot weld thicker material with SMAW I run more than one pass.  Is this approach acceptable for TIG?  Is it unreasonable to expect to weld 1/4 in 2 passes using the lighter machine?
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveUnfortunately for aluminum it is unreasonable.The ability of aluminum to take heat away (approx 5 times more thermally conductive) from where you are putting it is much greater than with steel.As a result, you have to dump heat in faster than it is carried away.In fact, after you lay the first bead, you will often need even more amps to lay the second (it's thicker now).
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyThanks, that is helpful to know.  I would like to be able to handle up to 1/4" so it looks like I need to look at scaling up a bit.
Reply:I bought my syncrowave for $450. Very good deals are out there if you are patient. I know of a number of folks that weld aluminum with no frills (e.g., no balance adjustment, no frequency adjustment, no pulse, etc.) and they get by no problem. I kind of like my syncrowave though...square wave AC wave form helps clean the aluminum oxides, has a balance control, goes up to 310 amps. Seems like a nice compromise versus any of the inverters that cost a lot more money (double or more of what I paid). I give up frequency control and pulse, but for the amount of aluminum welding I do, it is not an issue. The beauty shot is that the syncrowave is a MUCH better stick welder than the Hobart Stickmate (I used to own one). I had a stickmate and an AHP alphatig...got rid of them both when I got the syncrowave. It was just better for me/my needs.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:A critical issue is the question of what do you have for electrical service.  The old transformer TIG are wonderfully durable, but they eat power.  A used Syncro or Lincoln TIG would be a good choice if you have at least 60-70 amp on legit 230v service.  My supposed "230v"service actually measures low 220-something at the tap.  You need a 100+ amps for the full 310 amp output of a Syncro 250.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:50a 220vHobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:OK, transformer unit won't be doing 1/4" aluminum on that.  If you can push the budget, HTP 221 is plenty of power for 1/4", runs full bore on 50a service and is a unit you will not "outgrow" as far as adjust-ability.  If that $2k budget is a hard #, then perhaps the TA186 is a better choice than the Hobart 165 just based on output.  You can do 1/4" plate with either, if you're willing to preheat and/or go slowly cooking the heck out of the material.  If these are heat treated parts......not so good.  If it's cosmetic stuff, well, it's cosmetic stuff.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:actually there is a lot of confusion and urban myth surrounding transformer machines. Yes, my Syncrowave draws 92 amps on full power (310 amps) but that doesn't mean I need a 100 amp circuit in the usual sense. Per the Miller owner's manual I am running it on 6 gauge conductor with a 100 amp breaker. I was running it on the 50 amp breaker and could easily get up to 225 -230 amps no problem. Since I already had 6 gauge installed, all I had to do was upgrade the breaker. If he finds himself a deal on a syncrowave 200 or a precision TIG 225...that may not be a bad way to go.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:My starter machine was Lincoln Squarewave 175 and when I found a Syncrowave 250 I was on it like stink on a monkey.I would look for an older main stream brand transformer before I bought new......don't over look the Dialarc HF, great old machine that most don't want because it's just an old, outdated welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961actually there is a lot of confusion and urban myth surrounding transformer machines. Yes, my Syncrowave draws 92 amps on full power (310 amps) but that doesn't mean I need a 100 amp circuit in the usual sense. Per the Miller owner's manual I am running it on 6 gauge conductor with a 100 amp breaker. I was running it on the 50 amp breaker and could easily get up to 225 -230 amps no problem. Since I already had 6 gauge installed, all I had to do was upgrade the breaker. If he finds himself a deal on a syncrowave 200 or a precision TIG 225...that may not be a bad way to go.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI use a beast of an old transformer based machine - 470 amps max and 900 lbs of awesome On aluminum I'm at 230 amps often.They are cheap, often under $600 - and they work.  Mine was $225 and I've used it for 3 years now - excellent machine.There are several used heavy machines that are more modern, and still under $2000 used.  Syncrowave 250 is one of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbWhat is the input amps that that unit draws?
Reply:I run my Syncro 250 on a 70amp circuit at low 220 something actual volts.  I start popping the breaker if/when I get over 230'ish indicated output.  This is wired with AWG-6.He could try a Syncro or similar and if it works, great.  If not, he could almost certainly turn it around for little/no loss.  Might be an option.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:If you wanna weld AL you would just need to preheat to 250 or more.
Reply:Ken, you should put a larger breaker in. It should be quite safe on 6 gauge up to a 100 amp breaker.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313If you wanna weld AL you would just need to preheat to 250 or more.
Reply:I could, but it's not my building.  It was a 50 amp and I had a 70 amp breaker lying around and the building maintenance guy swapped it in for me when we happened to be there on a weekend.  The electrical is pretty scheisty, according to "them" they have to kill power to the entire panel to swap in and that goes over about as well as a wet fart in church during the work week.  It's not a big deal.  I don't TIG much at work anyways and I'm really trying to take all my gear home to avoid coworkers.None of which applies to the OP, lol.  S/F.....Ken M
Reply:Look at the new miller syncrowave 210 or the 186 tweco. Both are low power draw and seem to be great entry level tigs.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI'm too impatient for that   I just turn up the dial and let it eat