So im building a pull behind mower....

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so I am building a pull behind mower for my four wheeler to basically use out in the woods for cutting trails and food plots, its coming along but am trying to figure out what I should use to be able to attach it to my four wheeler. Oh and its made from a 42" riding lawn mower deck and 19.5hp B&S engine Lincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:I've thought about doing the same. I would make the hitch adjustable from side to side. I think it would be nice to have it stick out to the side past the atv to mow fence lines and ditches. Please keep progress posted. It would also be nice to put behind a riding mower and take a bigger swath and cut down on mowing time.
Reply:you should build a frame around the deck to stiffen it up and mount all your wheels from, the rear wheels will ripe off the deck the way you have them mounted...if you make the frame and weld it to the deck..the frame is holding the deck, not the deck holding your wheels and motor and you can then build an arm forward to connect to your 4 wheeler...Last edited by roadkillbobb; 04-25-2015 at 10:18 AM.Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:I've seen a few commercially built ones and they are all designed with a frame works that the wheels, hitch, and motor are attatched to and the mower hangs from that. I think you will be taxing the strenth of the deck to carry each of those individually since it wasn't designed to. Good luck on your build tho!Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:I've thought about doing that and still might. The wheel mounts aren't done I just wanted to have the deck in a position to be able to build the frame for the engine. not sure if I will continue the way I am going and add supports from the deck to the wheel mounts or just build the frame as you have suggested. My key was keeping cost down as I have everything I need to complete it besides the hitch but with material cost now I am under 50$.Lincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:I know the deck wasn't made to support all that weight but, to hang under a tractor, which I guess I should have thought about before starting. oops! But how now could I build the frame with the wheels intact the way they are or would I need to scrape that entirely?Lincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:just cut the wheel mounts off and leave the welded metal to the mower deck, and make a rectangle to fit on the deck and weld it to the deck, just put spacers where it doesnt touch and make as level as possible, then from the new frame just weld some angle supports the the pieces that will hold the engine, leave those welded and just reinforce to the new frame, use bed frames if you want or any free scrap metal, its not a high saftey factor if something cracks or breaks....also weld a brace that connects the 2 wheels as close to there center for extra support to keep them straight or that thing is gona wonder all over the place, if it was a 3 point hitch setup for a tractor then the rear wheels could turn freely and stay straight..Last edited by roadkillbobb; 04-25-2015 at 01:17 PM.Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Swisher makes a pull behind model. Check their design.
Reply:You will get a better mow quality if it hangs below a framework similar to how the complete mow was built. If you are going to use more like a brush hog, quality might not matter. You could section the mower frame to get the proper mounting points.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by JrIII know the deck wasn't made to support all that weight but, to hang under a tractor, which I guess I should have thought about before starting. oops! But how now could I build the frame with the wheels intact the way they are or would I need to scrape that entirely?
Reply:I like where this is going so far.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:bistineau after thinking about that I don't know how that could really work because of the fact that if the engine is stationary on the new frame and the deck itself would be adjustable up and down the v belt that I am going to use to run the blades wouldn't work at such and angle but would completely annihilate the belt. which was the reasoning among many other issues that I tore all of this off of the tractor in the first place. I don't know what I am going to do yet, I was think of adding supports up from the wheel mounts I have now to the engine mount to relive the stress of the weight of the engine from the weld on the deck. Two points of contact is better than one sort of theory. Well see...Lincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:Here is a diagram of my finish mower that pulls behind my tractor on three point hitch. Height is adjustable by spacers on the wheel forks. You could also use a smaller engine since you won't need the extra power to drive the lawn tractor.Craftsman 230/140 AC/DC   Miller HF-251D-1Millermatic 130   Linclon 40 amp plasma cutterHypertherm Max 20    O/A cutting and welding stuff5HP Ingersoll air compressor
Reply:Originally Posted by JrIIbistineau after thinking about that I don't know how that could really work because of the fact that if the engine is stationary on the new frame and the deck itself would be adjustable up and down the v belt that I am going to use to run the blades wouldn't work at such and angle but would completely annihilate the belt.
Reply:Just "KISS" keep it simple stupid...weld everything solid on the deck with reinforcements and cut your trails, if you want a manicured lawn buy a new lawn tractor..done and use it....Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:I agree roadkillbob about just using it. kiss method is the only way to go and really I should have built the frame separate from the deck as stated but well see how it goes worst comes to worse I can just build another one. around here junk mowers are everywhere.Lincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbJust "KISS" keep it simple stupid...weld everything solid on the deck with reinforcements and cut your trails, if you want a manicured lawn buy a new lawn tractor..done and use it....
Reply:Originally Posted by JrIII agree roadkillbob about just using it. kiss method is the only way to go and really I should have built the frame separate from the deck as stated but well see how it goes worst comes to worse I can just build another one. around here junk mowers are everywhere.
Reply:Originally Posted by happymachinist...but, do it right, do it once.  A frame might be a little more work now, but it will save work later.
Reply:no it didn't fall on deaf ears it just was too late to turn back and the major point of it being is that the cut isn't going to matter its not a finish mower its not being used in my yard it'll rarely be used at all it was something to do with scrap junk laying around that looked like it needed to be turned into something I could use that's all for the heck of itLincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:I like light weight so it's easy to pull.  Especially on hills.Casters seem to be a problem.  My spindle mod works and is holding up.Anti scalp wheels are important.  Mine don't scalp because they will hold it up on uneven ground I've found.  I put them about 1/2" high.I always mow at 2 1/2" so I don't need an adjustable deck.  But you might. (?)  That will probably add some weight.I like solid tires. Besides maintaining the cut height you don't have flats. HahaI like the blade rear about 1/4" to 3/8" higher then the front edge.  That seems to cut good. A flat blade doesn't cut very good imo.Here's my scalp wheels pic.  4 wheels about 1/2" high.good luckSlowhand Attached ImagesLast edited by slowhand; 04-29-2015 at 11:01 AM.
Reply:yea slowhand I was looking into a spindle mod is that in your build post? and I can imagine casters not working to well especially in high grass or whatever but, how did you mod the blades? just heat or what? and I looked at your build post for how you have the hitch coming off of the front wheels have you changed that? it looks now in your picture that you have a 3pt hitch? any way I am still trying to figure out how to build that or what I should actually use I don't think I want to use front wheels so maybe something solid mounted?Lincoln Weld Pak HD
Reply:My pull hitch comes off the right front wheel mount because I pull it behind my lawn mower and that offsets it to my left side.  Behind your 4wheeler you wouldn't need the offset, so a typical center hitch setup would work.My blades are stock. (safety first man)I wanted mine built light.  Its holding up so far. I had caster bearing issues.  Probably weight related.  The spindles can do the weight easy I'd say.I'd say check out sone pull behinds then build one like you think you want.  I like having one.Good kuckSlowhand
Reply:My old man's(I've) built at least half a dozen of those using the decks and engines out of junk riding mowers.  We've never had one break up due to the weight of the motor.He mows 5-7 acres every week.  In the open areas he pulls two with his rider so he's taking approximately a 12ft cut.
Reply:I figured it would hold up at least for a while. glad to know someone else built on out of junk too haha. Should be posting more pics soon haven't had a chance to work on it in a while