Stripped threads on a TJD Wisconsin Engine Exhaust Manifold

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What is the procedure for repairing the threads on a cast manifold? I have seen a thread on this forum before, but several searches have not turned up the thread.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:depends.....you can try a helicoil or weld the hole up and re drill and tap..all depends on what you got..any pics?Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Yea pics will help. I have re-tapped several things. I also did as roadkill said. Filled a hole up. Drilled it back out and threw my tap in there and vwala! fresh threads. It was not on cast iron though. But I think we can figure this one out. Or somebody on here can!
Reply:Need to see it.Not guessing....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:It is a 1 1/2 inch pipe thread, I was trying to weld the nipple to the manifold, I have some nickel 55 rods on hand, but I have never attempted a weld like this one before.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:Are there still enough threads to thread your muffler on and is leaking? Or does it not thread on or comes off easily? If it threads on I'd use some exhaust sealant and call it a day.
Reply:Do you already have or know somebody with the 1.5   npt tap ?Or can you Single point on a lathe?Buying or renting that tap will cost you $$$Braze, or If you want to use nickle rod, how about welding a coupling to that ?
Reply:W/ a hacksaw cut some slots 90* to the threads on a nipple and see if it will work as a thread chaser. If the new nipple will then thread in all the way but is loose then try forhire's suggestion w/ the exhaust sealant. In the closeup the lands look a little rounded but maybe there's enough to hold good.                                                 MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:harbor freight sells a set of pipe dies for not too much...http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece...aps-42432.htmlOf all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:I have the tap, It has had a tap run through it before. It still threads in, but it's very loose, & the muffler pipe won't stay in, the owner put a locking ring on the pipe & jammed against the manifold, it helps, but still keeps falling out.Last edited by lstilts; 05-20-2015 at 04:37 PM.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:Id be tempted to clean it up real good (Sand blast) and braze a pipe fitting on.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by lstiltsCorrection: it's 1-1/4, & I have the tap, It has had a tap run through it before. It still threads in, but it's very loose, & the muffler pipe won't stay in, the owner put a locking ring on the pipe & jammed against the manifold, it helps, but still keeps falling out.
Reply:I got another nipple, screwed it in & it tightened up, I believe it the weight of the pipe & muffler puts too much strain on the manifold. I think the solution is to weld a support on the control box, where my finger is in the picture, & clamp the pipe to it, taking strain off the manifold. Let me know what you all think.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:yup thats way too much weight on those threads and all the vibration doesnt help...a nice secure bracket will make the world of difference...how many cylinder is that engine? 2 or 4..missing plug cables?Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:It's 2 cyl. but I think they use the same distributor as the one they used on four cyl. engines. That always throws people who have not seen one before.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:Coming off the side like you want to do won't help much because of basic gravity.Can you get a overall pic of the whole machine from behind the muffler?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:There's a huge amount of leverage on that long pipe, I agree you have to do something.But you're going to have trouble if you make it too rigid, things will move as it heats and cools.
Reply:My idea is to weld a 1-1/2 inch piece of angle across the steel box on the side of the machine , extending out to the exhaust pipe,with a piece of flat stock welded on the end of it long enough to drill two holes in it so as to accept a u bolt & clamp the pipe to it. I might be able to connect a support to the alternator bracket, but I figure it would be more out of  the way of things to keep it up top.Last edited by lstilts; 05-20-2015 at 07:43 PM.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:Find a plumber friend who has a powered pipe threader. Tell him to set the die a little on the fat side. (you can adjust the dies to make a bigger or smaller diameter set of threads on RIDGID tripod threading machines) You might need to experiment on what is best.
Reply:How about a short nipple then some flex pipe . Mount the muffler on something solid and put flex in, should take the weight and some stress off. Good luck
Reply:Originally Posted by Weld oneHow about a short nipple then some flex pipe . Mount the muffler on something solid and put flex in, should take the weight and some stress off. Good luck
Reply:Maybe a angle iron stand out of what you already have from under the pipe on a angle to the heaviest point of the pipe with a cradle that you can attach with a hose clamp...Add a gussett or 2 on the frame for it and...........zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by Weld oneHow about a short nipple then some flex pipe . Mount the muffler on something solid and put flex in, should take the weight and some stress off. Good luck
Reply:Truck shops, napa or other auto parts, maybe hardware stores like tractor supply. It's around just can't think of a place off hand.
Reply:Amazon has a ton of listings for exhaust flex pipeOf all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...Thanks guys, this will help him from having his little rusty manifold/ intake bolts snap off in the middle of a 1500 ft. trenching job. he'll never know but you all saved his ***.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:If you can't wait for flex pipe just get some 90 degree pipe elbows and do it that way......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Plumbing supply have the  high temp flex with pipe threads or automotive exhaust shops and weld on nipples.Ypop
Reply:Use either stainless flex, or at the least aluminized steel. Don't use galvanized or you'll be replacing it again very soon.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:This thread is perfect example of great brainstorming, from members all around the continent to find the proper, cheaper, easy and long lasting solution to the problem! to all contributors.  There are no bad or crazy ideas on the path of problem solving as they all contribute to the final result.
Reply:Just got off the phone with the local parts store, I can get a 18" section of flex & clamps for less than 20 dollars, all I need to do now is build a bracket to mount the muffler. Thanks again to everyone who replied, this is the reason I love the internet & this forum, good people with a willingness to share their ideas & experience.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:That muffler was probably mounted flat on the frame works down around the alternator or something similar to that."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:lstilts - no cast welding on this one . . .Cleaning the threads is a must - RustBuster and a radial brush,then chase with a NPT tap - a muffler mount and a flex hose should prevent a re-run.And the key to an OEM fit is: Originally Posted by 2AMFind a plumber friend who has a powered pipe threader. Tell him to set the die a little on the fat side. (you can adjust the dies to make a bigger or smaller diameter set of threads on RIDGID tripod threading machines) You might need to experiment on what is best.
Reply:I bet it will crack if you try to weld it. I've been megnafluxing cast iron lately and it cracks on the toe of the weld. Can't be done unless you have it fernus welded
Reply:I think it was castweld (Peter) that pointed out once that older exhaust manifolds can be difficult if not impossible to weld due to the loss of iron in the material as a result of corrosion (and high temps ?).I know I couldn't get anything to work on an SA200 manifold some time back and wound up having it machined to accept a bolt-on flange I fab'd as the fix.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...nge&highlight=MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:If there is any flex between the engine and frame, I wouldn't rigidly mount the muffler and still use solid pipe to the manifold. It'll crack. Flex pipe is the way to go.
Reply:Here' my idea for mounting the muffler to the control box. Yes I know I can't use a cable tie to hold the muffler to the bracket. I was wondering is large hose clamps would hold up under the heat.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:That's a completely different manifold than the one on my tjd. The one I have comes straight out the top. It's not to hard to find parts for these engines, I bet you could find a new manifold without much trouble.
Reply:I think the manifold is going to be ok, however the manifold gaskets, if there are any of them left, are leaking like crazy, two studs with nuts hold on both the intake & exhaust manifolds, so far I'm not brave enough to try & remove them though. I sprayed them down with PB buster, but the last thing I want to do is break off those studs,Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.
Reply:A big hose clamp will do fine for an interim fix. I had a leaking manifold crossover on on old motor cycle I had. I wrapped pop can metal around it and secured it with a hose clamp to get me by for awhile until I bought another pipe.You should be good to go for awhile with a quality stainless clamp.IMHO of courseExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749A big hose clamp will do fine for an interim fix. I had a leaking manifold crossover on on old motor cycle I had. I wrapped pop can metal around it and secured it with a hose clamp to get me by for awhile until I bought another pipe.You should be good to go for awhile with a quality stainless clamp.IMHO of course
Reply:Yeah that would work too.I'm thinking temporary fix. That one I had on my bike lasted a loooong time Didn't even think of a muffler clamp, but that would be the ticket and it wouldn't probably need replacing either.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:for a temp fix on the gaskets, silicone 1 has a working temp of 500 degrees give or take, just pump it in the voids and let it cure and it will hold for some time...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Heat the retaining nuts to a dull red and let them cool for a few minutes. This tends to break the seal corrosion has performed. Heat them again to a little brighter red and remove the heat. Just as the redness leaves the nut, hit the threads with a penetrant oil and allow it to cool which serves to pull the lubricant into the seized parts. Heat again to a dull red and again remove the heat. Just as the redness leaves the nut again try to loosen it. Don't hurry the process at all. If the nut moves soak the threads again in a penetrant oil and remove the nut. I've gotten 75+ year old engines apart which have been sitting in a field several years using this method so I do believe in it. Again, just don't hurry the process.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Originally Posted by 12V71The only problem with a hose clamp is that the sharp corner on the angle is going to be the failure point. Myself, I would use a pair of large U-bolt exhaust clamps with the "saddle" part welded to the flat side of the angle. Just my .02$
Reply:Originally Posted by lstiltsWhat if I round the sharp edges down to a radius with my grinder in the sections where the clamp makes contact with the angle, that would also act as a stop to keep the clamp from slipping vertically.
Reply:Breeze, or Ideal are the best in worm drive clamps.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Awab and Aba ARE the best in worm drive hose clamps and they have radiused sides on the band.
Reply:1¹⁄₂ — — 46971c — — — — — — — 40002 50003Flex tubing part numbers from Walker exhaust site
Reply:Well it's done & gone off to work.Mastering others is strength, mastering yourself is true power.