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Starting my own thread on my pole barn/shop. Mind you before one thinks just rent this to do this or contract this out for this or call in a cement truck its not happening out here due to topography, distance from town, limited resources in town, time constraints and I live off grid. No running water here, power from solar or genset when welding and living in a truck camper doing this. Temperatures have swung from -40 to 112 degrees. Mail doesnt even run here but 3 days a week if that.This is my first build on this magnitude of size of project and Im open for suggestions, facts and opinions. The build will be 43 wide 32 deep and is built from parameters of the materials on hand I got for free, only cost me hotel fees, diesel and time. Going to be a monitor type barn/shop built from drill stem/pipe for the framing 4.5 for main atrium, 2.875 for the side wings, and using galvanized 20 gauge grain bin tin from 18 diameter bins for the roof/side walls and regular 26 gauge galvanized sheets for front and back walls.The ground is not flat here and is so steep I cant even turn a semi with a 48 trailer around without scraping, high centering or just getting stuck, need a 6x6 out here.First up is digging a flat spot, no flat spots on top of hills and no hills in right spot on proximation for layout, blocking northern winds, ability to drive up, distance from the road, distance from where house will be built and direction I need to face the structure so digging into a hill it is. Attached Images
Reply:Here is the pads the poles will be welded to. Took salt lick tubs mixed (3) 60 lbs of concrete in it, dropped two layers of remesh to get 2 x 2 which gives me 6 inch by 22 inch reinforced pad to weld the poles to, I sunk custom made plates from 6 inch channel iron with rebar legs welded on to to anchor in the concrete also. After I set them in the trench I cut a slit on the tubs to drain water from the pads. These will be for the main atrium only the side wings will get smaller pads to sit on. Attached Images
Reply:After those dried for 30 days not of my doing to wait that long but works out to cure the concrete it was time to weld the poles on. Mind you these are welded on to prevent pole from slipping off the pad and I cant hold a 20 plus feet pole weighing in at 11.6# per foot pipe as I brace it by myself. Used the I beam as a way to make the pole sit perpendicular to the concrete pad to weld to for a perfect 90 degree fitting, also when I welded the pipe to the channel I left a quarter inch unwelded so any condensation or moisture can drain out the bottom of the pipe. Attached Images
Reply:You are an army of 1Looks good. Be careful.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Originally Posted by John TYou are an army of 1Looks good. Be careful.
Reply:Up we go!
Reply:Originally Posted by _Weldman_Thanks, it’s funny you say that I am combat vet, ex infantry. Wife helps where she can too but for most part I try to keep her out of harms way.
Reply:A pole barn is great 👍for a weld shop. 1,200 sqft is good size too. A good evaporator cooler on wheels 😎 will keep cool. For heat a good generator keep warm and low in cost.Dave Originally Posted by _Weldman_Starting my own thread on my pole barn/shop. Mind you before one thinks just rent this to do this or contract this out for this or call in a cement truck its not happening out here due to topography, distance from town, limited resources in town, time constraints and I live off grid. No running water here, power from solar or genset when welding and living in a truck camper doing this. Temperatures have swung from -40 to 112 degrees. Mail doesnt even run here but 3 days a week if that.This is my first build on this magnitude of size of project and Im open for suggestions, facts and opinions. The build will be 43 wide 32 deep and is built from parameters of the materials on hand I got for free, only cost me hotel fees, diesel and time. Going to be a monitor type barn/shop built from drill stem/pipe for the framing 4.5 for main atrium, 2.875 for the side wings, and using galvanized 20 gauge grain bin tin from 18 diameter bins for the roof/side walls and regular 26 gauge galvanized sheets for front and back walls.The ground is not flat here and is so steep I cant even turn a semi with a 48 trailer around without scraping, high centering or just getting stuck, need a 6x6 out here.First up is digging a flat spot, no flat spots on top of hills and no hills in right spot on proximation for layout, blocking northern winds, ability to drive up, distance from the road, distance from where house will be built and direction I need to face the structure so digging into a hill it is.
Reply:Originally Posted by milomiloNice looking land. What state are you in?
Reply:Originally Posted by smithdoorA pole barn is great for a weld shop. 1,200 sqft is good size too. A good evaporator cooler on wheels will keep cool. For heat a good generator keep warm and low in cost.Dave
Reply:Originally Posted by _Weldman_Thanks, I’m about 340 miles north of you in Montana over near Colstrip. We love it so much after buying 30 acres we bought another 40, hopefully buy all the neighborhood around this piece to prevent anyone moving in next door. Don’t mind neighbors I do mind trailer trash dumping a trailer on the property then trashing the place and leaving in few years cause they can’t hack it here. I can count 5 places as such and one where someone thought they could build a Earthship with shovels some tires and all you can drink beer on the north side of a ridge that blocks the southern winter sun, phucking morons.
Reply:what a bunch of work. i met a const/job supervisor, and got to be friendly - we stay in contact. he builds his shop first, then lives in it for a couple/few yrs while he builds his a very well built house, which he lives it till the time/market is right, then he sells, and starts over. his wife is a real estate agent, so the two make a food team. he's in his 3rd or 4th house now, which will be his last. ur case, sounds like this is where u wanna stay, besides, the gov is compfortable w/ trained combative survival skilled x military living off grid in secluded wooded areas. i remeber u takin the material down. lookin at it, i thought might have way walls. i guess ill have to wait and see.Last edited by 123weld; 1 Day Ago at 09:06 PM.
Reply:My last shop was a pole barn 20ft x 80ft. Did have 3 sides the other side was open so could be used for larger projects. I live California most of year the days are sunny. The machine shop was in different building insulation for year around uses. Dave Originally Posted by _Weldman_Starting my own thread on my pole barn/shop. Mind you before one thinks just rent this to do this or contract this out for this or call in a cement truck its not happening out here due to topography, distance from town, limited resources in town, time constraints and I live off grid. No running water here, power from solar or genset when welding and living in a truck camper doing this. Temperatures have swung from -40 to 112 degrees. Mail doesnt even run here but 3 days a week if that.This is my first build on this magnitude of size of project and Im open for suggestions, facts and opinions. The build will be 43 wide 32 deep and is built from parameters of the materials on hand I got for free, only cost me hotel fees, diesel and time. Going to be a monitor type barn/shop built from drill stem/pipe for the framing 4.5 for main atrium, 2.875 for the side wings, and using galvanized 20 gauge grain bin tin from 18 diameter bins for the roof/side walls and regular 26 gauge galvanized sheets for front and back walls.The ground is not flat here and is so steep I cant even turn a semi with a 48 trailer around without scraping, high centering or just getting stuck, need a 6x6 out here.First up is digging a flat spot, no flat spots on top of hills and no hills in right spot on proximation for layout, blocking northern winds, ability to drive up, distance from the road, distance from where house will be built and direction I need to face the structure so digging into a hill it is.
Reply:Forgot to add, the height on the main opening will be 15’ give or take few inches and the roof will peak out to 24’ give or take a inch all based on how much rock I put down. Have a rock quarry within a mile I can drive my backhoe to and walk back and get my grain truck to load up for the price of straightening the owner’s property out which I’m the only one with access to it. He doesn’t live there but I can come and go as I please and he doesn’t care. It’s the same rock I put in the trenches below the poles.I will put a slab down in the main atrium only also later on after the side wings are done which those will get just rock, be a nice 19’ x 32’ slab.Last edited by _Weldman_; 16 Hours Ago at 09:45 AM.
Reply:I didn't see this when you started the thread. Absolutely excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The attached footings are a very good idea. It would be hard to plumb that stuff by yourself. Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's thinking outside the box.I don't know where your water table is, or whether water might percolate down through your backfill, but generally any time we put pipe below grade we make certain to do our best to seal the bottom. Water can come in through the bottom, and fill the pipe. Generally, not having to face your situation with mile long pipe, we just embed the lower part of the pipe in 8 sack concrete mix (waterproof). I'm not sure I'd leave any part of the base, where it meets the pad, unwelded. It will let water in.
Reply:Water can always find it's way into things. Make sure you cut some holes or leave the bottom of the footing open somehow. You could stick a short piece of PVC thru the footing pad to insure drainage
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmI didn't see this when you started the thread. Absolutely excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The attached footings are a very good idea. It would be hard to plumb that stuff by yourself. Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's thinking outside the box.I don't know where your water table is, or whether water might percolate down through your backfill, but generally any time we put pipe below grade we make certain to do our best to seal the bottom. Water can come in through the bottom, and fill the pipe. Generally, not having to face your situation with mile long pipe, we just embed the lower part of the pipe in 8 sack concrete mix (waterproof). I'm not sure I'd leave any part of the base, where it meets the pad, unwelded. It will let water in.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DWater can always find it's way into things. Make sure you cut some holes or leave the bottom of the footing open somehow. You could stick a short piece of PVC thru the footing pad to insure drainage
Reply:I guess my thinkin' is way out of line We average 23" per year, in a normal year............this year it's been closer to 30" I think. Been a muddy mess, and it actually rained again today.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmI guess my thinkin' is way out of line We average 23" per year, in a normal year............this year it's been closer to 30" I think. Been a muddy mess, and it actually rained again today.
Reply:Originally Posted by 123weldwhat a bunch of work. i met a const/job supervisor, and got to be friendly - we stay in contact. he builds his shop first, then lives in it for a couple/few yrs while he builds his a very well built house, which he lives it till the time/market is right, then he sells, and starts over. his wife is a real estate agent, so the two make a food team. he's in his 3rd or 4th house now, which will be his last. ur case, sounds like this is where u wanna stay, besides, the gov is compfortable w/ trained combative survival skilled x military living off grid in secluded wooded areas. i remeber u takin the material down. lookin at it, i thought might have way walls. i guess ill have to wait and see.
Reply:Was getting building permits pretty straightforward?ChrisAuction Addict
Reply:Originally Posted by milomiloWas getting building permits pretty straightforward? |
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发表于 2021-8-31 15:01:37