Deburring/reamer tool for aluminum tubing.

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I need a Deburring/reamer tool for 2 1/2" to 4" aluminum tubing. Most Ive seen are used for plastic pipes and have a inner outer cone with blades, actioned by hand,but way too small for the size were looking for ....A file is taking way too long, as this is used in a production setting. Something powered by a drill be the most ideal. What ideas or tools do you guys use....
Reply:Weldon... half inch shank... Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away.  Perfection is the journey.    Mac
Reply:Thank you... could you elaborate a little more about what you mean????... pics ect...
Reply:Sorry was occupied and got that typed out kid posted for me... https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...115+4294952813This isn't the setup I have at work...  but similar to at home.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away.  Perfection is the journey.    Mac
Reply:I use one of these.https://toolguyd.com/noga-deburring-tools/
Reply:Those hand deburring tools are good for inside, but not the outside... As far as I can tell, there isnt any in that format....The pipe is cut by a circular saw type machine, and leaves a bit of a burr.... Both ends... When there is hundreds of pipes sometimes, the job is really long. Here is something what were looking at but for a large pipe, typically 3"(2 3/4"Id) is what we work with alot..Id like make this tool in this format, but I dont know how we would make a cone like the one described... we dont have much in the way of machining abilities...
Reply:First thing I'd look at is the saw. You shouldn't be getting a lot of burr from a blade with the right tooth shape , kerf , tip profile , lube  and sharpness . Nor from a saw that spins fast enough . Amazing the difference with a sharp blade.As the outside , we usually just give them a spin on the linisher , rather hard if the pipe is 20' long  , in which case we usually lie the pipe on a bench with one hand roll the pipe with a 5 1/2 in the other with a flap disc on it . Pretty fast with practice , granted the smaller the dia. the easier it is .The inside , any straight reamer will do it (a good use for the ones youv'e snapped  ). If it was only a few I wouldn't even bother taking out what ever drill bit was in the drill and use that. You can get cone shaped abrasive . I've never had to do enough in one hit to really worry about them.I know it is for plastic but I reckon that pipe tool would work on ally . Worth a try as long as they are not asking a bomb for them .High speed , light feed. It says the cutters are hardened steel , replaceable and you can sharpen them . You would however want to put someone on that operation with a bit of "feel" for the material .All of what I have said is only for taking of a light burr , not for a precise chamfer .Good luck mate.BrettLast edited by Brett; 04-04-2021 at 04:26 PM.A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:Originally Posted by Brett in which case we usually lie the pipe on a bench with one hand roll the pipe with a 5 1/2 in the other with a flap disc on it . Pretty fast with practice , granted the smaller the dia. the easier it is .Good luck mate.Brett
Reply:https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/223s-22...r-outer-reamerMachine/Fab a way to power drive it on big slow drill.
Reply:Originally Posted by danielplacehttps://www.ridgid.com/us/en/223s-22...r-outer-reamerMachine/Fab a way to power drive it on big slow drill.
Reply:Originally Posted by ezduzitThat is not going to work on 2-1/2"-4" pipe.
Reply:Good suggestions... As I understand with various descriptions here on this forum... There is a potential for weld contamination from the grit of the sanding/grinding wheels/belts???... What kinda belts are not going to cause this... Or is this moreso a problem for the Tig process... Not aluminum wire feed???
Reply:We never have a problem with contamination using the method I descibed earlier.But... I suspect it is not so much the type of sanding/grinding wheels/belts you use , rather what  have they been used on previously .As  our our stuff is 95/5%  ally/stainless  and no mild steel we dont get cross contamination .Basically if on the rare occasion a disc or belt has been used on mid steel it is now only for mild steel , wouldnt worry too much going in the opposite direction ally to mild though.  Im pretty relaxed beteen  ally and stainless also but it rarely happens as we use a different type of belt for the two .Last edited by Brett; 04-12-2021 at 06:30 PM.A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:Ok...I see... So I was in the understanding as the the grinding material of the sanding disc had to be "for aluminum", as "regular stuff" embeds in the softer aluminum and thus causes porosity in the welds???.... Is this correct... or did I miss something completely????....With this being said... if any belt is good, and I get a cone or drum sanders....  that could solve my problem right there.... I did get some grinding discs for the aluminum specifically, not sanding(ie a flap or the like), but are aggressive and take alot off.... Oh ya.. sorry if I didnt mention it before.... All this was for just deburring, not a chamfer
Reply:Originally Posted by mckutzyOk...I see... So I was in the understanding as the the grinding material of the sanding disc had to be "for aluminum", as "regular stuff" embeds in the softer aluminum and thus causes porosity in the welds???.... Is this correct... or did I miss something completely????....
Reply:mckutzy,not powered but then it only takes a fine burr off aluminum- cheap and long lasting as the cupped carbides can be rotated to sharp areas.W/ some powered roller wheels in the bench to lay the pipe segment on/in and a fixed mount for this hand tool, you could pretty easily rig a "deburring station"https://aircraft-tool.com/shop/detai...ookieSupport=1Cheers,Kevin MorinKenai, AK
Reply:Perhaps this from three posts down. :                                                                                        https://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...ive-bevel-toolDon't know if there's a battery powered option. A mini router with a carbide 45deg bevel bit might work ?for 1-1/2" to 4" aluminum tube/pipe I've mostly used these, the inside is easier to do, the outside takes a little practice. Helps if its in a pipe vise.good for deburring not beveling.Airco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:McKutzy, not sure is you've looked at the Reed MFg tools?  Just got sent a suggested video - might look at https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/product...pipe-bevelers/  these guys seem to have a good sample of tools that might deburr aluminum pipe?cheers,Kevin MorinKenai AK
Reply:I use an angle grinder and flap disc on low speed. No need to overthink things!!Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
Reply:Originally Posted by mckutzyOk...I see... Oh ya.. sorry if I didnt mention it before.... All this was for just deburring, not a chamfer
Reply:Mckutzy,another outside chamfering tool for plastic that might work well to just deburr in aluminum- worth a look?https://www.noga.com/Products/grp_11..._BURR_-_PC3000cheers,Kevin MorinKenai, AK