Welding Jig for Table Legs

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I'm wondering if there's a quicker way to weld sq. tube table legs to the table top frame.  I've been fabricating small end tables via the following process.  Weld together a table top frame to hold the wood top using 3/4 in. angle stock.Set the top upside down on my table and set a leg (sq. tubing) on a corner and secure with a couple welding magnets.Verify/adjust to 90 deg. with a couple of electronic levels.Tack in-place. Remove magnets and weld.  The legs move around like the Leaning Tower of Pisa so I have to adjust as I go heating different sides and letting things cool. I'm always 0.1-0.4 deg. off of vertical by the last weld.  Is there a better way to do this with some kind of framework jig to secure the legs (preferably all four) before welding?  Anyone do this and care to pass-along some lesson's-learned?Ex. Last edited by johnnycanuck; 1 Week Ago at 11:46 PM.Hobart Handler 140Harbor-Freight 4x6Porter-Cable Abrasive ChopsawGreat-Grandfather's hammer
Reply:Some of those inexpensive magnetic angles aren't really the greatest. Depending on your welding table top size, you can tack angle iron to form a ninety that you can clamp too. If you want to spend some money, there's clamps available that are time savers. I bought these BESSEY Welders clamps when I was making gate frames. They are great if you can afford them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006...?ie=UTF8&psc=1There are 3 axis clamps too. Here's an example. https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Hand-S...g+clamp&sr=8-3If you want a higher class of magnets, choose from the MAGSWITCH brand. I have a variety of these and are great ! https://magswitch.com/product-catego...g-fabrication/They sometimes have items on clearance and sales around Thanksgiving. Many members here took advantage when I posted their sales.
Reply:Tack everything in place, and use a hammer to square it up. Just tack the two outer edges of each angle section.I wouldn't faff about with magnets or electronic levels. Just use a decent size engineering square. Save levels for complicated shapes that require a start and finish to be parallel on different planes.When making the top frame, you tack it in the same way, check square, and then double check square by measuring diagonals. The best policy is to tack everything, check everything, then weld everything - if you can. Sometimes you can't.Murphy's Golden Rule: Whoever has the gold, makes the rules.
Reply:Fireball tool squares. Check out this video but jump ahead to 22:20 in the video to get to the part about the table legs. Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:I build a lot of tables through several interior decorators and had problems like you talk about. Now I use a cheap right angle clamp clamped to the table top and the leg clamped in the other part. I adjust until flush with the sides and perpendicular both ways. Tighten the clamp good and put 4 quick tacks on it and then take clamp off and weld out. They never move if they are clamped until tacked.
Reply:I'll second the vote for some Fireball Tool squares.  If you don't have some, you really need to get some.  They are just too handy to not have in the shop.I do like the ubiquitous three-way clamps that hold the legs up and square agains the frames, too.  The only downside to the Bessey style of three-way clamps is that they are pricey and are only really useful for clamping things like legs.  If I was making a lot of tables, I'd buy four of the three-way clamps and set up a little production line so I could drop everything in place and weld it all up in one go.
Reply:A flat, clamp-able surface (usually with jigs) is really all you need/what you'll use when you get comfortable making things.As others said use square corner jigs and clamps (I use thick pieces of angle iron scrap ALL THE TIME, works fine as long as they are true 90 degrees).2 axis corner clamps can speed things up and make things faster, but I would NEVER pay full price for a 3 axis clamp.I own one of the strong hand tools 4" 3 axis clamp and have used it a handful of times.I got it in a tool bundle (I figure I paid about $30 for it), and I was so stoked when I picked it up thinking i would use it all the time.  You won't unless you make production level numbers, and in that case you would buy 2 our 4.best way to use it imo:  for tacking up legs and corners all at once fast.Main reasons I don't really use it:It's bulky, heavy, awkwardIt takes forever to set up (relatively)You need a flat welding friendly surface to use anywayit's expensive and you feel bad tearing it up weldingyou remove it to make many final welds even though the tool has cutouts for welding (trust me, you will end up removing it to final weld)I find I tune the leg while final welding to be plumb and square no matter what (Welding shrink forces are CRAZY STRONG).  This can involve weld sequence, and the beloved hammer.MAIN REASON: it's an unnecessary step in one off productions and doesn't make a nicer final product.Few tips for corners:  matching corner to corner measurements(top corners, and feet) is the fastest way to check square, and plumb.tack everything, get your sequence and speed down (so the weld shrink forces relatively balance each other), don't be afraid  to start the corner over if things get too out of whack (cutting something off and replacing is often easier and much less time consuming than trying to fix, with much better results).  hidden joints likely don't need to be welded (zero strength advantage in most cases).Last edited by SlowBlues; 1 Week Ago at 05:04 PM.
Reply:Each clamp can have a special application. Those BESSEY welders clamps I bought have paid for themselves, for me Whatever you decide, you need to verify the clamp "footprint". Depending on your table measurements you may only have room for one clamp OR device at a time.I had no issues because my gates were larger. They sure saved time for me. I was able to use them for the intermediate lengths too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Make a jig to drop the 4 angle iron pieces into to tack the tray / top together.  Than another jig to hold the top at 90 deg from the fab table top with the legs at 90 deg form that piece, flip it over and tack the remaining 2 legs on.  Square it outside the jig as necessary and move onto the next 1.  Assembly line style process.
Reply:Use screws.  Are all your takes the same?If they are and you prefer to attach with welds then you need a fixture (perhaps wood) to allow you to drop them all in and weld.
Reply:Thanks for all your inputs - I'm amazed at how much support this forum provides.  I'm going to try a Fireball mega-square and see how well that works for me - I'll post my results.  Stumbled onto this thing that looks pretty simple and useful too: https://stronghandtools.com/strongha...s/90-tru-angl/Hobart Handler 140Harbor-Freight 4x6Porter-Cable Abrasive ChopsawGreat-Grandfather's hammer
Reply:If by "takes" you mean is every table the same config, no.  They're generally the same h. but vary by a few inches in w. and l.Hobart Handler 140Harbor-Freight 4x6Porter-Cable Abrasive ChopsawGreat-Grandfather's hammer
Reply:SlowBlues - thanks.  These aren't one-off creations but doing 3 at a time (that are all slightly different) isn't mass-prod either.  Yeah, I'll try simpler fixtures first and see it they work for me.  I'll try your suggestion to weld quicker to balance the heat better. Louie1961 - That vid is a keeper.  Thanks.BD1 - Thanks for introducing me to Stronghand tools.  They have some cool stuff.  Bob - Sounds like you use something similar to the Bessey clamps that BD1 recommends, yes?  Once I sell a few more of these I'm may buy one of those.Hobart Handler 140Harbor-Freight 4x6Porter-Cable Abrasive ChopsawGreat-Grandfather's hammer
Reply:Yeah, tables.  I have a few fireball squared.  Nice. Some are large and may interfer with one another if your building small tables as in the photo.  If you have multiples and a couple of sizes then a fixture would be way to go.  Squares are nice but time consuming for volume work.
Reply:IF you decide to buy, go to the manufacturers site. Sign up for emails and you might find items on clearance, cheap. As I mentioned, Magswitch does have items on clearance. It's their Magswitch products with the RIDGID name on them. Bakers Gas is another company that has deals. Sign up and you should get $10.00 off your first purchase. Sometimes even free shipping is offered. https://bakersgas.com/?campaign=3686...SAAEgJ9H_D_BwE Eastwood is another that may have deals. They had free shipping on purchases over $43.00 .Yes $43.00. Usually $100.00 and over but that changes too. Check their closeout items too. https://www.eastwood.com/in-store-couponSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk