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Spot Welding Machine for Stick welding

Spot Welding Machine for Stick welding

Welding Automation for Stick welding

laser Welding Machine for Stick welding

Welding Automation for Stick welding

Welding Automation for Stick welding

Platform Spot Welding Machine for Stick welding

Platform Spot Welding Machine for Stick welding

Stick welding


Tue, 31 Aug 2021 15:57:12 GMT
ok im in school for welding and having some issues.  I find the slag is hell to get off of the 6011 welds.  7024 I cant seem to get the heat right on.  I had some slag inclusions with the 7024 and my instructor told me to trun up the heat and I did about 10 amps but now my beads are concave.Any tips or advice for adjusting the heat right when stick welding would really help !
Reply:Regarding the 7024 slag inclusions, I think it is important to hold a tight arc length, and a of course a slight drag angle, to keep the arc concetrated and to keep the slag behind the puddle.  A slight uphill tilt of the workpiece also helps keep the slag to the back side7024 is a drag rod, meaning that you can literally drag the coating along on the base metal.  The core rod burns back up into the recess of the coating and holds a good tight arc length when you get the amperage right.  You may find you need to apply a moderate amount of pressure on the rod to keep the arc tight, rather than just lightly dragging it along.  Also, it is probably easiest to simply drag straight along without any weaving.When you get the heat right, the 7024 slag is self peeling, it lifts and curls right up as you weld along.The 6011 slag really is much more difficult to remove.  It has alot to do with getting the smoothest possible ripple surface on the weld and smoothly wet-in toe lines.  Coarse ripples and undercut along the toes really helps the slag stick.Last edited by pulser; 07-09-2008 at 07:01 PM.
Reply:Use a wire brush or wheel on the 6011 (when I was welding a lot of pipe with 6010 I always kept a half round file with the handle end ground down like a wood chisel for getting it off the edges). The 7024 should be concave in a fillet weld and when filling a bevel up until you hit the cap pass. Don't try to stack metal with it as all you will do is make a mess. If you are running it too hot you will have splatter (big bullets) and too cold you have to beat the slat out of it to get it off. When it is just right as it cools it will curl up and flake off. You want to keep the flux coating right on the work and keep the arc right down in the puddle as 7024 is just almost sub arc. I angle the rod in at about a 60 degree angle off of the work (or 30 degrees ahead off of 90 or vertical) and basically just let it burn itself down while lowering my hand to keep the same angle. Once you have the heat and travel speed figured out on it a bad weld is really hard to make with it.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:I found if I mess with the heat and use like intended, a drag rod, I can get the flux to burn off at just the right speed to keep up with the wire rod inside burning off.  Its a feel thing.   7024 can sure make some nice welds. With the bigger stuff it can be faster than bare wire mig.David.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I call 'em speed rods, which just tears my partner up. He doesn't much like it when I refer to his weldpak as the idiot welder either, lol. After a few years of running 7024 you will get to where you can actually run it backhand (rod pointing the opposite direction of travel). Don't do that in class because it will get your instructor all over you. In the real world optimum conditions are frequently unobtainable and you have to adjust techniques, heheh.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Thanks guys I managed to get it all straightened out I just needed to slow down a bit with the 7024'sThanksDarryl

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