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Can I mix the rods on a weld


Tue, 31 Aug 2021 15:52:03 GMT
I'm working on a land plane built from scrap around the ranch.  There is one area that is going to be doing most of the work and I would like the weld to be really strong here.  It's all good steel and pretty thick, and all of the welding should be flat and straight so even I should be able to get a decent weld here.I have 1/8" 7018 and 1/8" 6011 rods to choose from.  Can I start the weld with one of the rods - say the 6011, to get the penetration - and then finish with the 7018s for strength?  Or, am I just better off picking one and laying multiple passes down?Thank you.
Reply:IF you are a good stick welder, you will be able to make a weld with either of those rods that will be plenty strong for what you need.But yes, you can put your first pass in with 6011 and make more passes on top with 7018. Make sure you remove all the slag between passes of course.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Sort of. The reason 6010/6011 is usually used is that it doesn't need the shielding like 7018 does for open root welds, where the weld material is exposed to the air on the open back side of the weld. In reality what you are really doing is "building" a backing strip that you then weld to with the 7018. With welds without open roots, lap joints T's etc, you can run 7018 all the way out with no issues.60XX series rods are "weaker" than 70XX series rods, so going with good 7018 will give you more strength. That said running one bead with 6011 really isn't going to hurt in this case, since the rod is still stronger than the base steel anyways. Sometimes 6010/11 is used to help burn thru rust/paint that can't get cleaned as well as one might like before welding up with another rod because 6010/11 is more tolerant of contaminants and if run right can help lift out these so you have a cleaner material to weld the next pass on. This is not however a substitute for good prep and cleaning the material. A good example would be heavily pitted steel where you can get a nice clean  bare metal surface, but you can't really grind out the pits without a lot of material removal around the weld area.Then you can always toss in other variables... Some people weld better with one rod vs another. If you run 6011 poorly, you might simply be better off risking a bit of porosity with an open root 7018 weld you can run well, vs a cold poorly tied in root with 6011. Same goes with subsequent passes. If you can run 6011 well, but can't run 7018 with out a lot of trapped slag, cold lap and so on, you might be better just using 6011 all the way and "sacrificing" the theoretical strength you won't get anyways with poor welds. Also keep in mind more weld is often not better. I see a lot of guys who think you absolutely have to weld things to death. the "more must be better" crowd. In reality you don't get any more strength from a weld that's larger than the base material thickness. So if you are welding 1/4" plate, a 3/4" fillet won't make it any stronger if the welds are done right. In reality, chances are you can actually do more damage to the material than any gains, as the extra heat can change the material structure making it weaker than the original strength, and the material will fail right next to the weld. Most people don't need to run multiple passes unless the material is thicker than 1/4", with maybe the exception of an open root weld listed above. In that case, 1/8" rods might be too large a choice for both beads. Running a 3/32" rod for the root and then capping it with the 2nd rod might be the way to go.  Again it depends on how you run the bead and how much buildup you get..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:A little more info about this project:  I have a 3" I-beam that I will lay across two 5" angle iron frames.  Both of them are more than 1/4" thick each.  The angle iron is in good shape - just a little rust dust on them; the I-beam is in a little worse condition, but I can grind the edges down to good steel.  I just happened to buy 5# of 3/32" 6011 last week to use for special cases.DSW, if I understand the terminology, then what I have here is not an open root weld and I can just do the whole thing with the 7018s.  Or, I can use the 3/32 6011 to make the initial pass and then cover it with the 7018s.Can't really tell you which one I like the best since my experience is severely limited.  I started learning how to weld using 1/8 7018s on rusty 2" pipe.  Wasn't a really good experience.  The 6011s came in after I had developed a little bit of technique (and I mean little).  Also, they came in when I started welding thicker pieces of steel together so this was a whole lot easier.
Reply:the other day i was running some 3/32 7018 at around 85-90amps. by accident i  put a piece of 3/32 6011 in the stinger, flipped  the hood d own and  ran the rod out..when i lifted the hood to put the stub in the can i noticed it was black and smokin, then figured out what id done..surprisingly the bead was real nice..
Reply:If this is going to be a critical part and you seem to be unsure look into having someone else weld it. Not trying to be an A$$ but when it comes to safety sometimes its best just to admit you need some help. Nothing wrong with that, the only dumb people are the ones who refuse to ask for help. If you are comfortable with it and the steel is clean or you make it clean, 7018  rods perform well and typically lay down much better than your 6011.  Also for newbies and others who may not have a large output welder, preheating with a torch by even a few hundred degrees will help a lot. "Anybody can talk $h!t behind a monitor, I let the quality of my work speak for itself"Lincoln Square Wave 255 and 355 Tig Lincoln 255 Power-Mig w/ spool gun Koike 5 x 10 CNC plasma Hyd-Mech DM-10 bandsaw Ineco QB-76 NC tube bender

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