I'm considering going with SS countertop in my home kitchen. Instead of a "factory" finish, I'm leaning towards just ordering standard 2B finish, then hitting it with a flap disk in my 5" grinder to give it swirls. I have done that type of design many times before for other projects, and I see no reason why it can't be done for this. Do you see any problems with it? It makes it very easy to re-finish after some field welding, or if it gets damaged any time in the future. Would it require any "sealant" of sorts to keep microscopic pieces of chromium or nickel from adhering to dish clothes or to food itself? I'm thinking of going with 11ga material to facilitate welding and to minimize dents and distortion.
Reply:Stainless is a good surface. I am not too sure about particles coming off. In my experience, zinc is also a good choice for food surfaces that doesn't stain. There are many petinas available and the gauge doesn't have to be as heavy.
Reply:Stainless is without rival so far as food safety is concerned. It does not require any type of "sealant" to keep it sanitary, although keep in mind that for any food prep surface, scratches are akin to a type of porosity that bacteria can reside. When you use your flap disc, use as fine a grit as you can so that bacteria can't be held deeply under the surface where you'll apply sanitizer.It's hard, durable, not easily scratched, and non-porous. Essentially the ideal food prep surface.Weldone, are you smoking something? Zinc is toxic, and hardly a surface that you would want any acidic food to touch.
Reply:Originally Posted by W123BenzWeldone, are you smoking something? Zinc is toxic, and hardly a surface that you would want any acidic food to touch.
Reply:Originally Posted by W123BenzStainless is without rival so far as food safety is concerned..
Reply:Thanks, flatbustedbroke. Copper is a possibility, too, but it may become discolored with prolonged contact to water.
Reply:Copper is probably too soft. Every time you drop something on it, you may get a dent. Probably scratches easily also.I'd also suspect it would eventually turn green like the copper roofing.Edit: the more I think about it. I've seen copper pipes that have been in a house for years. The outside is not shiny, but also not corroded green. As long as you don't let acidic stuff lay on it for extended amounts of time, the corrosion may not be a problem.Last edited by AndyA; 04-30-2012 at 12:02 PM.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:I wouldn't do stainless anywhere in my kitchen as its hell to clean fingerprints and whatnot off of. If you're set on stainless, I'm with W123Benz in the use of the finest grit. I'd even knock off the intitial bite on a 120 grit disc on a piece of s/s scrap first. I always install over a plywood substrate and use a 20 or 18ga so the corners are easily welded and sanded smooth. Too light a gauge can also dent if you drop something heavy on it, substrate or not.Flatbusted, you are correct that zinc is used on countertops - I've made a few of them...but it is recommended that you used cutting boards to prep your food as opposed to directly on the surface.Thermal Arc Fabricator 2101970 Lincoln RedfaceMiller 150 STLStill need a Syncrowave and a plasma and a milling machine and a lathe and a bigger shop and a....
Reply:I've seen copper countertops and sinks, but never in a smooth finish. The hammered finish leaves you with something where you won't really notice any new dents.Stainless and copper will both discolor if wet food items are left on them. With copper, it is very difficult to keep it fully "bright", but a patina can be nice anyway (although you wouldn't like to see rings from where a glass was left).With stainless, any corrosion spots can be easily enough removed and passivated, but it's still not a surface I would have in my home.
Reply:I did pretty much exactly what you're talking about with the counter top I made for my house. I used a regular 360 grit 5" sanding pad and polishing compound, it really doesn't take much on a 2b finish. The polishing compound makes a mess but it brightens it up quite a bit. I think 11 gauge is a little overkill for a residential counter top, with substrate. Here are a few pics of what I did Attached Images
Reply:Wijo0131, that is EXACTLY what I plan on doing! Very nice! Is your ss one piece, or did you have a seam weld where the counter changes direction? Can you provide a link to the type of sink you welded in there? What gauge did you go with and did the welding distort it at all?
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ooks nice but that would give me a headache afterawhile......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:There is a seam at one of the sinks, I planned it that way to keep it as short as possible. Also, if you plan on having a back splash or any other features, make sure the guy forming it knows what they're doing, headaches otherwise. Not much distortion, I like to take the necessary preventive measures against that. I used 18 gauge because I was cheap, if I did it again I would certainly go with 16 gauge. If you don't feel like making your own sink, you can buy an under mount style sink from anywhere and VERY CAREFULLY cut the flange off(what I did). Good corner to corner fitment is crucial when it comes to finishing, and welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by wijo0131There is a seam at one of the sinks, I planned it that way to keep it as short as possible. Also, if you plan on having a back splash or any other features, make sure the guy forming it knows what they're doing, headaches otherwise. Not much distortion, I like to take the necessary preventive measures against that. I used 18 gauge because I was cheap, if I did it again I would certainly go with 16 gauge. If you don't feel like making your own sink, you can buy an under mount style sink from anywhere and VERY CAREFULLY cut the flange off(what I did). Good corner to corner fitment is crucial when it comes to finishing, and welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterLooks nice but that would give me a headache afterawhile......zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by AndyAIt's probably not as shiny and annoying as it is with the flash on the camera.
Reply:Today I got 2 pieces of 16gauge stainless 7"x16" and butt-welded them together to practice.Result: Not impressed. Too much warpage. I used a 3/8" thick piece of aluminum behind the joint to act as a heatsink. I probably should have used two more on each side of the face of the joint I guess?I used .035" wire for filler, and also tried just fusing it together. I used my Miller Maxstar 150STH pulsing at 60pps (fastest setting the machine can do). I varied between 35 and 55amps. I tacked it every 1.5 inches or so, and let it cool before welding, and also twice during welding. The welds are fine, but any pointers to lessen distortion next time?
Reply:I just did about 400' of 16 gauge stainless welding 4' seams I tacked about every 6 inches and then went end to end only stoping to reposition my self 45 amps no pulse no filler i think it just takes practice. I also did small circles with the torch to wash the metal from side to side.
Reply:After the polish is done couldn't you spay a few coats of clear coat on it??Millermatic 251Miller Bobcat 225Lincoln 135Victor Oxy/FuelOlder Thermal Dynamics 50 amp (paid $700 with 10 sets of consumables)
