Vertical up / vertical down 7014
Tue, 31 Aug 2021 14:52:29 GMT
I have been burning up some of the old 7014 electrodes I got with my welder. I'm sure you guys can offer some advice. My vertical up welds look cold but my vertical down welds look decent. I am keeping a tight arc for both directions doing a small "e" pattern on some passes and a straight drag on others. I am keeping the rod at 90deg. To the work.First pic is vertical up. Second pic. Is vertical down. Running .125" 7014 @ about 125 amps DCEPThird picture is a flat weld to get the settings dialed in. Attached ImagesBrianMiller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DCEverlast 255 EXT with water coolerH.F. 170 Mig/Flux welderKent 3h.p. 9x42 milling machineHome Built 2"x72" variable speed 2 h.p. belt grinderHome built 9" variable speed 2 h.p. disc grinder
Reply:I ran a few beads with .125" 7018 vertical down. They seemed to run a little smoother. Attached ImagesBrianMiller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DCEverlast 255 EXT with water coolerH.F. 170 Mig/Flux welderKent 3h.p. 9x42 milling machineHome Built 2"x72" variable speed 2 h.p. belt grinderHome built 9" variable speed 2 h.p. disc grinder
Reply:I wouldn't run 7014 vertical down hill, unless it was on sheet metal. And all I had.I played with some 7014 a while back. I never heard of it until joining some tractor forums. Run it just like 7018. Here is one of my vertical up hill welds with 7014. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I've always been told never to run 7018 downhill, especially on a cert. The problem being is that when you run downhill, the 7018's slag will run ahead of your metal being deposited causing slag inclusionsIve done it on a few applications, with a very slight decline, I just angled the rod way forward, like 45 degrees or more, trying to stay ahead of the slag, and burning the rod a little hotter than normal, for 1/8 rod i think i was running 125-130amps, and weaving so i could push the still liquid slag out of the way. I didnt get any porosity, but still.I know next to nothing about 7014, never touched it but from the first pic it looks like maybe running in reverse polarity might help?Miller Spoolmate 200 w/t S-52 WirefeederMM 211'09 Miller Trailblazer 302
Reply:I am no expert at all but telling by the hump in the middle of your vertical up weld, seems like you are not holding your sides as you should. Maybe holding them a little longer and going across the middle faster will help to flatten the bead.
Reply:Originally Posted by melsdadI have been burning up some of the old 7014 electrodes I got with my welder. I'm sure you guys can offer some advice. My vertical up welds look cold but my vertical down welds look decent. I am keeping a tight arc for both directions doing a small "e" pattern on some passes and a straight drag on others. I am keeping the rod at 90deg. To the work.First pic is vertical up. Second pic. Is vertical down. Running .125" 7014 @ about 125 amps DCEPThird picture is a flat weld to get the settings dialed in.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ian DuffinI've always been told never to run 7018 downhill, especially on a cert. The problem being is that when you run downhill, the 7018's slag will run ahead of your metal being deposited causing slag inclusionsIve done it on a few applications, with a very slight decline, I just angled the rod way forward, like 45 degrees or more, trying to stay ahead of the slag, and burning the rod a little hotter than normal, for 1/8 rod i think i was running 125-130amps, and weaving so i could push the still liquid slag out of the way. I didnt get any porosity, but still.I know next to nothing about 7014, never touched it but from the first pic it looks like maybe running in reverse polarity might help?
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveYou will have a much easier time if you learn 7014 and 7018 vertical up.Rod straight in, maybe up by 5 degrees.Flux touching the walls on both sides - and run with enough amps that it won't stick this way.Watch the puddle, don't panic that the slag is dripping behind you, it'll do that.I like 125-135 amps, and whatever I'm running 7018 at, +5 amps for 7014 seems about right.I drop the amps a little for a weave bead.Certainly my way is not the only way, but it works good for me
Reply:Originally Posted by melsdadI will try adjusting the amperage settings. When I ran the 7018 my amperage was around 130. I'll turn that down about 5 amps and give it a try. I seemed to have better control with a slight weave. It seemed to me like I had better control of the puddle.
Reply:Originally Posted by melsdadI will try adjusting the amperage settings. When I ran the 7018 my amperage was around 130. I'll turn that down about 5 amps and give it a try. I seemed to have better control with a slight weave. It seemed to me like I had better control of the puddle.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI like doing a weave too - when I do stringer beads I like a little more amps.Have you watched the vertical up welds on welding-tv.com and weldingtipsandtricks.com?They are an excellent guide.
Reply:Originally Posted by melsdadI will try changing the angle. I believe 5° was already mentioned by Dave. Is this what you had in mind also?
Reply:I'd stay away from running 7014 down hill until you figure out how to run it uphill. Your uphill looks to have no side to side oscillation in it. You need to learn how to read your puddle and oscillate your rod to control your puddle.I run 7018 downhill frequently. It's not easy, and you have to know what your looking at. I can make it look very nice but I also do this daily for a living.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeI run 7018 downhill frequently. It's not easy, and you have to know what your looking at. I can make it look very nice but I also do this daily for a living.
Reply:Not at the moment. The big oil companies don't like photos being taken at their sites and cell phones are not to be used in the field. If I get caught, I'm off to the gate. There are certain specific times when I'll run a downhill pass with 7018. If I'm welding thin walled tube hand rail, I'll use a small 3/32 rod and run it downhill. If I have an I beam that has been cut or bashed and I want to build back up the corner of a flange, I'll run a downhill pass with 7018 then grind the corner back to 90 degrees. If I'm splicing an I beam or welding a coped I beam or C channel joint, I'll wrap my corners with a short downhill pass with 7018. If I'm welding a mid rail splice in a hand rail, I'll run a downhill pass with 7018. Downhill doesn't penetrate like uphill does. That's why I do it sometimes. You have to use your arc length to help you. You have to be able to see (and recognize) when your slag is about to drop down on you and be able to long arc it for a second to allow the slag to drop out. Then go back to regular arc length and recognize when the slag is going to drop down on you again. That's the key to running 7018 downhill.Last edited by snoeproe; 11-24-2014 at 09:19 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeNot at the moment. The big oil companies don't like photos being taken at their sites and cell phones are not to be used in the field. If I get caught, I'm off to the gate. There are certain specific times when I'll run a downhill pass with 7018. If I'm welding thin walled tube hand rail, I'll use a small 3/32 rod and run it downhill. If I have an I beam that has been cut or bashed and I want to build back up the corner of a flange, I'll run a downhill pass with 7018 then grind the corner back to 90 degrees. If I'm splicing an I beam or welding a coped I beam or C channel joint, I'll wrap my corners with a short downhill pass with 7018. If I'm welding a mid rail splice in a hand rail, I'll run a downhill pass with 7018. Downhill doesn't penetrate like uphill does. That's why I do it sometimes. You have to use your arc length to help you. You have to be able to see (and recognize) when your slag is about to drop down on you and be able to long arc it for a second to allow the slag to drop out. Then go back to regular arc length and recognize when the slag is going to drop down on you again. That's the key to running 7018 downhill.
Reply:6010 is not up to code for structural work. QC won't allow it. It's low hy only.The only guys allowed to run 6010 are the pipe fitter welders. 6010 is up to code for root passes in pressure pipe.I won't run 7018 downhill on major structure or anything thick. In fact, I'm not supposed to be running it downhill at all. But there are time when you can hide it and make it work for you.Last edited by snoeproe; 11-24-2014 at 11:29 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:When using 7018 in vert. up position I always get a rhythm going in my head and run the weave to match, kinda like 1,2,3..1,2,3 pausing at the edge for the 2,3 and moving across on the 1. The slag will sorta run to the centre of the weld and pool, easy to clean. IMHO And as said earlier never vert down unless necessary..Measure with a micrometre, mark with chalk, cut with a torch.Never force anything...just get a bigger hammer.RoyOld Airco buzz box approx 1974Lincoln mig pack 15Lincoln 175 square wave1954 9" south bend lathe
Reply:I struggle with vertical up on 7014. Can you describe your method? Are your turning the heat down? Holding the sides and quick across the middle? 7014 has become my new "mig" rod. Basically if I don't want to use the MIG welder, then I run 7014. Actually I use it on about everything other than very critical welds, at which time I whip out the 7018.Lincoln Ranger 305gMiller X-Treme 8VS Suitcase FeederLincoln Powermig 210 MPLincoln AC225 TombstoneAmico MMA-160Titanium Easy Flux 125A pile of grinders.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mark_DI struggle with vertical up on 7014. Can you describe your method? Are your turning the heat down? Holding the sides and quick across the middle? 7014 has become my new "mig" rod. Basically if I don't want to use the MIG welder, then I run 7014. Actually I use it on about everything other than very critical welds, at which time I whip out the 7018.
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