How do you know when it's proper to regrind a tungsten vs. cutting and establishing a new point? Thanks.Last edited by WenValley; 09-26-2013 at 10:59 AM.
Reply:If you have a big ball on the end, from overheating or contaminating cut . Anything else just grind to clean the point up.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:^^^^^ what he saidMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/
[email protected]
Reply:I look at how far back from the tip I need to grind to get to where the outside of the tungsten is still shiny and clean.If it's more than 3/8" (which really only happens when you smack the filler into the tungsten and get a blob on it), then I grind a groove right in front of the shiny part, snap it at the groove, and re-point it there.Less than that, I just re-grind the point until everything looks nice.Most times, I'm just touching up the tip of the tungsten when it starts to beard.
Reply:Why do you want to cut it? What purpose does that serve? The only time I ever cut a tungsten is to cut it in half to make two short ones.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGWhy do you want to cut it? What purpose does that serve? The only time I ever cut a tungsten is to cut it in half to make two short ones.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonBingo!!!I make my people grind off their blobs. It happens, even to me and I gently blend them clean and repoint. My TriMix tungstens cost me $15 per stick, and if I catch an idiot breaking it off they catch heck from me. Some of my new guys can eat up a couple of them a day if I let them. I caught an experienced idiot years back breaking off a blob an inch back with a hammer, then setting the machine to DC+ and balling the tungsten right in the middle of a nicely maintained bench putting a 1/2" round pimple that then would score up my parts when said idiot dragged the parts across it. I fired him shortly after.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeI work with some boneheads like that as well, and if I could I would fire them! No respect for equipment and no common sense really gets me going. And it's the same thing day in and day out, and they still just don't get it and when I lose my temper they all think i'm nuts.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeI work with some boneheads like that as well, and if I could I would fire them! No respect for equipment and no common sense really gets me going. And it's the same thing day in and day out, and they still just don't get it and when I lose my temper they all think i'm nuts.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonOr use a pair of pliers on the backcap to keep the tungsten from sliding out after they crushed the collet.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermike10/4 yup! I do most of the tig work on my job, but these guys will cut something apart with a torch right on my tig table with a job half finished blowing slag all over it and get the torch caught in there feet knock it on the floor, run it over with a hi lo drop hammers on the foot pedal, use anvils for cutting stations, spill sh!t in cabinets with my filler wire in it, fire up grinders and shoot sparks right in your face, destroy bench grinder wheels in one shot and walk away and leave them running, i'll come into work the next day and find them STILL RUNNING! And everything and anything else in between that you could imagine. It really is frustrating! Grown men as well, not some young kids! I'll quote CEP here and say these idiots could fck up a cannonball.
Reply:''I work with some boneheads like that as well, and if I could I would fire them! ''I would fire the guy that hired them too .
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGDamn! You got some good hands working for you, better hold on to them!Whenever I get a blob on my point, there's a trick you can use to get most of it off. As soon as you break your arc and while the blob is still nice and fluid, just flick the TIG rig off to the side hard and quick like throwing a frisbee. ( just don't throw it )Most of the blob will fly off and you'll have less grinding to do.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI make my people grind off their blobs. It happens, even to me and I gently blend them clean and repoint. My TriMix tungstens cost me $15 per stick, and if I catch an idiot breaking it off they catch heck from me. Some of my new guys can eat up a couple of them a day if I let them.
Reply:This thread makes me happy that I work alone. Then book keeping time rolls around...anybody hiring?
Reply:Yeah, $15, ouch! That's about 3x what my lanthanated ran me.I don't dip my tungsten in the puddle, but sometimes the back side of my 3' long filler rods bump into the light fixture (who's paying attention to that end?) and It makes me bump the filler into the tungsten. Blobs happen.I'll have to remember that flick trick and try it out some time.
Reply:I never break off my tungsten, always grind it clean and sharpen.......Just wasting money when you break it....... Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Hahahahaaha wow you guys are OLD......sounds like a case of the "SHAKY HANDS" I think they have medicine for that? LMAO Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:I worked for a guy years ago welding his Aluminum parts..It was 250 Amp 5/32 Tungsten stuff and he would give me "ONE" piece of tungsten and tell me you better make it last........Well the other two guys would go through that tungsten in a week and go up to the boss and ask for more.......He would walk over to me and ask to see how much Tungsten I had left (which would be more than half the stick) he looked at the other guys and tell them to get with the program your costing me money.......hahahahaha Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:I'm 67 and I have a 3/32 2% thoriated tungsten I've had since 1980, but of course, I've never used it!
Reply:Well, you guys make me feel better about my learning curve. I still blob some occasionally, but a lot less these days. I usually grind it off and repoint like already said, but I have had a few I just had to cut off! I don't pay $15 each and I can't fire myself so I guess I'll just keep trying to learn.What I want to know is, if TIG uses non-consumable electrodes like the book says, why are we buying them in packs of 10!We all ought to be like MagicHat and only have to buy 1 for life. Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtWell, you guys make me feel better about my learning curve. I still blob some occasionally, but a lot less these days. I usually grind it off and repoint like already said, but I have had a few I just had to cut off! I don't pay $15 each and I can't fire myself so I guess I'll just keep trying to learn.What I want to know is, if TIG uses non-consumable electrodes like the book says, why are we buying them in packs of 10!We all ought to be like MagicHat and only have to buy 1 for life.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonErosion my Dear Watson, Erosion. I have about 200 in various sizes and blends in my desk drawer. Not unlike my tool chest full of hammers, there is the right one for every job. New guys gobble them up fast and get the cheap stuff. Us old timers get the best.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonErosion my Dear Watson, Erosion. . New guys gobble them up fast and get the cheap stuff. Us old timers get the best.
Reply:2% Thoriated works best on DC, all forms and sequences of DC. 2% lanthanated comes close. Rare Earth, TriMix, and E3 are all the same blend but different brand names. They all work best for me on AC alum or magnesium or any form of AC welding. Again 2% lanthanated is very close and sometimes identical in performance on AC welding. 2% lanthanated takes some time to glaze over again. MillerWelds.com has a good tutorial for inverter welding, but I was using the same guidelines for Tranny welding years ago. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ten-Selection/Anyway for economy, HTP usa weld has the best pricing. We have used tons of their 2% thoriated and 2% lanthanated tungstens. I just wish they could get their hands on E3.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.Originally Posted by pepiMind if I ask what is the differences of good or cheep electrodes, welding quality clean bright, staying power. Obviously a boot question, but if the good visa the cheep means quality of weld or has better heat control, please say the product name. I would rather use a quality product that could eliminate yet another obstacle. I would not shop price for something like electrodes, that would be like running Quick trip fuel in an alcohol burner expecting low ETs, pissing in the wind also comes to mind.Thank in advance.
Reply:I of course have limited experience. I find that the DGP trimix electrode produces little finger like projections on the tip with AC. Similar to what Thoriated does, but the projections are more rounded. The cheap 2% lanthanated I bought though HTP just forms a tiny ball at the tip of the point and that's it. I'm usually welding at less than 200 amps and my EN is generally at 65% with 60 Hz, if that matters.As for the cutting vs. Grinding thing, I made the mistake of buying a portable tungsten grinder. Works great, but you can't fit anything with a blob through the guide. Needs to be snapped off or preground first. I shoulda just went with the HF grinder and the diamond wheel like others here have.Last edited by Drf255; 09-30-2013 at 05:21 AM.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:shovelon,Thank you for the information good to know, I have not experienced any cracking, as to inconsistant diameter grinds I will need to look for that one. Have not paid attention to it, will be watching out for that now.Again thanksDrf255,Portable tungsten grinder, I considered one of those at first cause I was have a hard time getting a tip and doing that a lot. Spent more time grinding tips than welding LOL. What did clue me to that it might not be a good fit for myself was the balling, no way around cutting for that one. That is when and I believe it was from this site, I learned about a drill, grinder and an easy fast way to the elusive for me at that time, consistent electrode tip. Sure solved the problem I was having.This forum is a great place to discover tips. I find just hanging out in the back ground I will pick up on things that I never thought about and then use.Thank you welding forum and the experienced and smart posters.Well done.Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGWhy do you want to cut it? What purpose does that serve? The only time I ever cut a tungsten is to cut it in half to make two short ones.
Reply:Originally Posted by KelvinI'm only a hobbyist, but I've been tigging a few years, and I have never, even once, cut a tungsten.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255I of course have limited experience. I find that the DGP trimix electrode produces little finger like projections on the tip with AC. Similar to what Thoriated does, but the projections are more rounded. The cheap 2% lanthanated I bought though HTP just forms a tiny ball at the tip of the point and that's it. I'm usually welding at less than 200 amps and my EN is generally at 65% with 60 Hz, if that matters.As for the cutting vs. Grinding thing, I made the mistake of buying a portable tungsten grinder. Works great, but you can't fit anything with a blob through the guide. Needs to be snapped off or preground first. I shoulda just went with the HF grinder and the diamond wheel like others here have.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonYou can do it by scoring the place you want severed with a belt sander edge or grinder wheel corner. Then break like glass and point.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermike10/4 yup! I do most of the tig work on my job, but these guys will cut something apart with a torch right on my tig table with a job half finished blowing slag all over it and get the torch caught in there feet knock it on the floor, run it over with a hi lo drop hammers on the foot pedal, use anvils for cutting stations, spill sh!t in cabinets with my filler wire in it, fire up grinders and shoot sparks right in your face, destroy bench grinder wheels in one shot and walk away and leave them running, i'll come into work the next day and find them STILL RUNNING! And everything and anything else in between that you could imagine. It really is frustrating! Grown men as well, not some young kids! I'll quote CEP here and say these idiots could fck up a cannonball.
Reply:Originally Posted by KelvinBut why would you ever WANT to?
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonAgreed on the DGP TriMix on DC. But for AC, and holding a ball, it is my favorite. In fact TriMix is for me and not my crew. They get the E3. I have used a lot of 2% lanthanated and it is a close second to my Trimix. It works better on DC than Trimix.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonIf you want to get your torch into a tight place you attach your stubby backcap and short tungsten. If you don't have one in your parts tray, trim it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Brand XI agree, but put the DG pink thoriated are right there with them on AC..(might be my favorite overall) The DG ones are German made, and the E-3 are mostly China. Can't stand them. I run 120 hz ,most times... have for years... (Thermal's anyway)
