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Spot Welding Machine for Millermatic 211 gun?

Spot Welding Machine for Millermatic 211 gun?

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Platform Spot Welding Machine for Millermatic 211 gun?

Millermatic 211 gun?


Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:45:52 GMT
Well, next day or 2, I'm gonna take the plunge and purchase a MM211AS...I'm stoked to say the least as this will be my first welder...I have a question about the gun though (M-10 I think it is)  The gun says it's rated to 100 AMPS or so, but the MM211 will go to 210 AMPS.  Can someone tell me exactly what this means?  Will I melt the MM gun if I'm welding at top end of the machine or even over 100 AMPS?  Or does it just shorten the duty cycle.I guess what I am ALSO asking (Also means I would still like an answer to those questions above  ) is, should a purchase a gun rated for more amperage like a Bernard or something?Thanks ahead of time.
Reply:The M10 mig gun Miller includes with the MM135, 140, 175, 180, 211 and Passport portable migs is a light duty gun meant for intermittent use at mid range power settings.  It will weld at the max setting of your machine, but if you push it alot, it can overheat.   The benefit of the little M10 gun is that it is small and light and can reach into small areas.I upgraded my portable machines to Bernard QGuns.  I have a Q300 on my MM175 and another Q300 on my Passport.  The guns are super tough, never overheat under hard use, and are 15' long for better reach.  They also use the Centerfire frontend consumables, which match the torches on my other larger migs, making it easier to stock consumables for all the machines since they are standardized on one style.  I like the Bernard guns very much and I can't imagine not having a QGun on all future mig machines I may purchase.  They're just great!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Thanks DR....that's exactly the response I was looking for.  I was also looking the Bernard Guns and glad you gave your input on them.  Can you help me with one more thing?  Consumables (mainly wire)....can you give input as to what wire to use for multi purpose.  I know there's not the broad spectrum like stick, but looking for something that will do anything I need it to and have good results, even for the beginning.  Thanks again.ALSO, any other willing to give input on wire, tips, etc. would be appreciated.I am SUPER STOKED!
Reply:Is your work mostly outdoors or indoors?  For indoors, ER70S-6 solid steel mig wire in an .030 or .035 size and 75/25 argon/co2 mix gas will work fine for most jobs you can do with the 211.  For outdoors, .030 or .035 E71T-GS or E71T-11 self shield fluxcore wire works best.  This is all for welding common mild steel.   On solid wire, just about any brand will do.  There's not much a manufacturer can do to mess up a solid wire.  I've not had any especially bad experiences with off-brand or name-brand solid wires.  Get whatever is readily available to you and it should be fine.  Now for fluxcore wires, there are some that don't run for crap.  I stay away from all Airgas Radnor wires and rods that have flux.  My experience is they are junk.  Lincoln and Hobart rods and flux wires have been good to me.  I like Hobart/McKay Speedshield GS .035 for general outdoor use with my portable migs.  Lincoln NR211MP is also good and readily available at most Home Depot, Lowes and other box stores, usually in .030 size.  Your local welding shop should be able to get you any wire you want.  Hobart is always my first choice.If you want to weld aluminum, .035 or 3/64 4043 works for most aluminum projects.A good source for QGuns has been ebay and the welding forums.  They usually sell for about $100.  New, they cost about $300 to order from the local welding shop.   Make sure you get one with a Miller compatible backend.  Most are 15' Q300's that I see for sale.  Get an .035 liner for it a power pin connector for Millermatics from Bernard and a bag of Centerfire tips to match your wire size and you should be good to go.  The Millermatic power pin to fit MM135, 140, 175, 180, 211 and Passport migs is a little longer than the power pin connector for the bigger shop migs and Suitcase feeders.   Same part number, but the longer one for the small Millermatics has an 'M' on the end of the part number.   Your local welding shop can get you the connector, liner and tips from Bernard.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Thanks for the info.  Never knew that you could run .030 in an .035 lined gun.  Good info to know.  Sad thing is I was watching a Bernard Q300 about a week ago on Ebay.  Went for $80 I think but I didn't buy it because I didn't know what welder I was going to get at the moment.  I'd say that most of my work (80% or so) will be outdoors, working on my jeep and other items.  If I can, I'll put the Jeep into my father in laws shop, but the shop is normally pretty cluttered.  At least maybe I can get the area I'm working on, in the shop to shield it from wind, if there is any.How much wind does it take to screw up a weld using gas?  My guess is less than what I would think...I do know that my father in law would shat if he saw I was using flux wire and welding because he has a 115V wire feed welder that he says I can use.  Issue is, I just want my own equipment.  His welder is strictly run off flux wire because he doesn't want to pay for gas.  His idea is also to use his buzz box as much as he can instead of the wire feed.
Reply:Buck,You've gotten some good advice from DR.I too love the Bernard guns, however, I will caution you that the Q300 Bernard is a LARGE gun to be sticking on a MM211.DR, I know, uses a Q300 on his passport.  To me that is overkill, however he's used to using the larger Bernard guns on his other machines.I would suggest that you find someone local who's using a Bernard gun and see if it "feels right" to you.I use the Q300's and Q400's on my larger machines and I'm very happy with their performance.  They are, though, big and heavy.  On my HH187 (my little go to mig) I have kept the H10 (Same gun as the M10 on the mm211--different back end).  I like the small size and ease of getting in tight spots.  I even picked up an M10 off e-bay and use it occasionally on the mm251 if I need a smaller gun.I haven't seen the e-bay "deals" on the Q200 Bernard guns, but that would be a good size gun for the mm211.Bottom Line.  Guess what I'm saying is that you don't go squirrel hunting with a .30 Cal rifle.Last edited by SundownIII; 05-14-2010 at 01:26 PM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Another mig gun to consider , are the ones sold through Praxair . The guns are made by Bernard ( for Praxair ) and are quite inexpensive . They use all the standard Bernard Center Fire gas diffusers ,contact tips ,liners  and nozzles .Personally , I use a 150amp version of this gun on my MM252 and it is simply flawless . It's a very nice step up over the M10 gun .Whenever I want to weld heavy stuff , I simply switch over to the Q300 gun . For 3/16 steel and under , the Praxair ( Bernard ) guns are the cats meow . Much easier to handle than the Q300 .Miller MM252 with Q300Hypertherm PM1000Everlast Powertig 200DXMiller Syncrowave 200
Reply:Thanks Sundown.  I guess a Q200 would work as well being as the welder will only crank 210 amps    I'll look into that also.  Just want something that will work and that I can practice with (get used to).  Also, who says you don't go squirrel hunting with a .30 cal
Reply:I agree the Q200 would be just about ideal on any of the smaller machines.  Trouble is you end up having to order a Q200 for $300, versus buying a readily available Q300 for only $100, or less sometimes.   I don't know where all these Q300's come from that don't have machines to match up with, but there are plenty out there in 'new' condition for sale.  If I was a Miller/Hobart marketing manager I would spec all of the small migs with Q150's and Q200's with 15' whips and Centerfire frontends, with a matching 15' work cable and a descent clamp.   This would make these machines truly useful in the field right out of the box.  Are you listening, Miller???MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
ReplyMillermatic 211 gun?R,From what I understand, these Q300's that you see on e-bay come from distributors who've pulled them off the larger wirefeeders headed to production shops.If you notice, all the 22A, 24A, and 70 Series feeders include a Bernard gun.Personally, I feel the Bernard is a better gun, but many businesses have been using Tweeco, Profax, etc guns for some time and are not willing to get into the business of stocking two different sets of consumables (tip, nozzles, liners, etc).None of the aforementioned wirefeeders come standard with the Q150/200 guns, therefore there is not a substantial quanity of "new", smaller Bernard guns hitting the open market.While I agree with you concerning the smaller Bernard guns being superior to the M series, I suspect that one of the reasons Miller doesn't do as you suggest is for a couple of reasons.  First, the smaller migs are very "price sensitive".  Adding a few dollars here and there may just place the machine out of the perceived reach of the "hobby welder".  Additionally, using a 15' whip with .023 wire in a .030/.035 liner is asking for trouble with feeding.  Adding an additional 5' of reach to the gun, more than doubles the "load" on the drive system.  I think you may see a lot more "early failures" with the drive mechanisms with a longer whip.These are just a couple of reasons why I don't think you'll see the longer whips on the smaller machines anytime in the near future.  The Passport Plus (a more specialized machine) may be a candidate for what you suggest however.  Maybe you would want to suggest to Miller that they look at an exchange program (similar to the M25/Q330) that they offered a while back on the 251/252.Last edited by SundownIII; 05-14-2010 at 05:48 PM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Sundown, That makes sense about where the Q300's are coming from.   I didn't know Miller had an M25/Q300 gun exchange program on the 251/252 machines.  That is very good.  Miller actually called me one day, a manager from the Millermatic department, to ask how I liked the Reach feeder I'd just bought and what ideas I might have about improving the Millermatic line.  I was quite surprised!  We discussed a few things about the Passport and other migs in their line.  Who knows if any of those ideas may pop up in the future in some of their machines...MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Well, as of now, I'm walking in shallow water instead of taking the plunge....Father-in-law said he was going to help me buy a MM 211, but now he says that some weldpac from Sears (LE) will be good enough.  It'll only weld up to 1/8" single pass and I told him I needed more for my Jeep stuff.  His reply, grind it down and make multiple passes...So then he didn't like my comment after that....Anyway, so, probably be a couple more months.  I did have a question though....It was previously mentioned (regarding Bernard Mig Guns) to get either a Q300 or Q200 with a .035 liner, which would feed .030 as well....Will this liner also feed .024 without binding?  Just wondering because I have a lot of sheet metal to weld as well.Also, question with the flux core wire was never answered...how much wind does it take before having to switch to a shielded wire?  I'm guessing that unless you're indoors, use shielded....but thought I would ask.
Reply:Buck,Saw your question but really don't have an answer.  Never tried to push .023 wire 15' thru a .030/.035 liner in my Q300 guns.Gut tells me you're going to have some erratic feeding issues pushing that small a wire that far.As far as outside welding, it doesn't take much wind to disrupt the gas cover on solid wire.  Couple weeks ago I was repairing a yacht transpost trailer for a buddy.  Tried solid wire with C25.  Even set up plywood shields.  After the first bead, I pulled the solid wire off the machine and loaded a spool of .035 fluxcore.  Much faster/easier.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Same as Sundown here, I've not tried to run .023 through my 15' Bernards with an .035 liner.  I don't think it would work all that well, going by how .030 wire feeds through an .045 liner in the same torch.  You may want to set your stock 10' gun up with an .023 liner and use it just for that, then put on the bigger Bernard for the bigger wire.For wire, I run almost exclusively self-shield (gasless) fluxcore in the field.  I do carry solid wire and C15 gas on the truck, but I very rarely use it.  Fluxcore is just alot less hassle and more reliable for field work outdoors.  I get so used to the joys of not worrying about wind blowing the gas away, then am reminded of that devil wind when I have to mig aluminum or do any tig work outdoors.  Even with barriers set up, the wind still puts up a fight with the gas.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Great advice given by the experts here.  As a newb like you, i'll give you my .02cents worth.  First, I wish i bought the Miller 211 too.  I bought a Lincoln power mig 140c and love it, but the 211 is better.  More options available to the user. Second, before you go out and buy a new gun, first try the one it comes with.  If I were an expert like DR and the others here or I made a living being a welder, sure I'd get something better.  I'm sure the OEM Miller gun will suit you just fine for your welding frequency on you DIY projects.  Lastly, i'll second the statement made about the Airgas "Radnor" wire being pure junk.  So are their consumable mig tips!!!  I stick with Lincoln Electric wire and tips.  I've heard that Hobart wire is excellent and I'm sure one couldn't tell the difference in weld quality of Lincoln or Hobart.  I think it's splitting hairs. The flux core wire for outside works great buy you get lots more spatter all over the place.  If you can, try pulling your metal (cars, projects etc...) into a garage that partially left open for ventilation.  That's what I do now and I live in an area that has constant wind in the 15mph range on average.  We also have tremendous "Santa Ana winds" and I'm still able to use the garage and weld with the shielding gas.  The Ar/CO gas combo really keeps your welds looking beautiful!!!  Those are just my few humble newby opinions that I've learned over the past few months of welding projects.  My projects so far:  Two wrought iron decorative gates; welding table; bike rack; truck lugage racks; wall mounted shotgun rack w/lock; patio table; 2 bird baths for the wife; antenna racks for amateur radio folk; lamp table; couch end table.......  More to come and a Millermatic 211 on the way!!!!Last edited by SuperArc; 05-21-2010 at 04:18 AM.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:I've had problems with the Radnor mig tips too.  Sometimes good sometimes not.  I assume the same would be true for their plasma torch tips as well.  I buy genuine Bernard, Miller, Tweco and Hypertherm brand tips and never have a problem.  Most of my mig guns in use take Bernard Centerfire tips now.On Hobart versus Lincoln fluxcore wire, I prefer the Hobart Fabshield 21B and 23 and McKay Speedshield GS to the Lincoln NR211MP, but the 211 wire is still good wire.  I haven't tried their NR212 yet. Just about anything name brand is better than Radnor fluxcore.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I have a MM210 w/M-10 gun and it performs pretty darn good.  After a lot of high amp welding it does tend to get a little warm, but not too hot to hold on to either.  I have used it to weld 1/4 inch  wall  2x2 ans 2 1/2x 2 1/2 with great results.  I think you will be happy with the M-10 till you get a lot of weld time and will probably move to a bigger machine by that time since 210 amps is kinda small for larger plate and thicker sections.  I had a century 135 and the MM-210 replaced it handily, I would like a bigger machine, but for now the 210 does well for 90% of what I do.  The other 10% I just stick weld with my Buzz Box Lincoln and call it good.  At extreme amps, stick welding works better for me.  Just my .02, but I like my MM-210 just the way it came.  As for wire, I use 75/25 gas and solid .035 on just about everything with an ER70-6 wire.  Never tried .023, but .030 runs well in an .035 liner.  And those parts  (liners, tips, nozzles) are cheap from the LWS and in stock every time I need em.  I try to keep a few in stock, and replace em as I use em, that way I can get the job done without stopping to run into town for a small item.  70 mile round trip to the LWS, so I try to minimize that little "combat run"as much as possible, when I can.I'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:The Millermatic 210, 212, 251 and 252 machines came from the factory with the larger, heavier, higher amp rated M25 gun.   The M25 looks similar in pictures to the M10, but if you put them next to each other you will immediately see that the M25 is alot bigger gun than the M10.  The M25 is appropriately sized for use on 200-250 amp mig machines, which is why you haven't had any problems using your M25 on your Millermatic 210 on high output welds.  The M10 that the Millermatic 135, 140, 175, 180, Passport, Passport Plus, DVI, DVI-2 and 211 machines come with is undersized for use on 200-250 amp machines with the higher duty cycles that the bigger migs have.  It is undersized for use on the 211, but they get away with it due to the lower duty cycle of that small machine.Last edited by DesertRider33; 06-12-2010 at 10:24 AM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
ReplyMillermatic 211 gun?esert you are right.  I looked at mine closer and it is a M-25, My Bad.. Either way what ever my MM-210 came with has held up to a ton of welding and abuse.  I cant see spending any thing on replacing it till something breaks or just plain wears out.  I'm cheap, and have to watch what I buy anymore since living on disability is hard to do.  Thanks for the point out though, I woulda messed up and got the wrong parts if I had not looked.I'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Just use the M-10 gun that comes with the MM211.Iffin' ya wanna just spend 100 bux on ebay go ahead but you will be fine with the Gun that comes with the machine.The MM211 is rated 150 Amps at 23.5 VDC, 30% duty cycle (230V)and drops to 100 Amps for a 60% duty cycleThe M-10 Gun is rated 100 Amps @60% Duty CycleEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
ReplyMillermatic 211 gun?R,Should have the Q200 hooked up to the HH187 this week.  I'll post photos.Received an e-mail Friday that the parts had been shipped to convert from the miller machine end to the hobart rear end.  Have to use a .023-.030 Miller liner in the Q-gun.Will see how the "little guy" (HH187) pushes .030 wire for 15'.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Sundown I know you posted it somewhere but how much did it cost you to get the q200 and the backend for the hh187? Thanks...
Reply:Sounds great Sundown.  You'll be liking that new setup.  If the HH187 has the same wire drive mechanism as the Millermatics, it will push the .030 wire down the 15' gun without problems, with the correct size liner.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Just use the M-10 gun that comes with the MM211.Iffin' ya wanna just spend 100 bux on ebay go ahead but you will be fine with the Gun that comes with the machine.The MM211 is rated 150 Amps at 23.5 VDC, 30% duty cycle (230V)and drops to 100 Amps for a 60% duty cycleThe M-10 Gun is rated 100 Amps @60% Duty Cycle
Reply:Broc,Next time you have a burnback in the tip of that M10, and try unscrewing that dang tip, YOU'LL WISH YOU HAD A CENTERFIRE TIP.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.Originally Posted by SundownIIIBroc,Next time you have a burnback in the tip of that M10, and try unscrewing that dang tip, YOU'LL WISH YOU HAD A CENTERFIRE TIP.
Reply:The gun provided with the MM211, I would think is capable of handling any amperage you want to put thru it, considering the duty cycle of the power source (MM211).
Reply:Hopefully this will get a response....Instead of posting a new thread, I thought I would just resurrect this one.  One question I asked before, was never answered as most of the responses were diverted to what would be the best gun...Also, question with the flux core wire was never answered...how much wind does it take before having to switch to a shielded wire? I'm guessing that unless you're indoors, use shielded....but thought I would ask.
Reply:The Temp Carport would be good idea.It doesn't take much wind to affect the Shielding gas coverage and then you end up with a Crappy weld you have to grind out.Body work and such will definitely require the Solid wire and gas.Heavier stock on the vehicles can use the Fluxcore but if you put up the Carport you may never need to use it.Invest in a Welding Cap and some ear plugs for out of position weldingEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Yeah, I've heard about the ear plug thing    Those will definetely be a purchase, I can actually get boxes of foam plugs for free.  Thanks for the response though.  Since my father-in-law doesnt care to assist with the purchase of the 251 (and a 252 I found for about the same price); I'll probably pull the trigger on the 211.  The only thing concerning about the 211 is the smaller welder drive rolls and such, but most people say it's a killer machine....and also say that for my purpose, it'll do everything.Thanks for everyone's responses and help.
Reply:I do have one more question, probably not, but oh well    I've read several posts with people saying that they like the arc of the passport better than the 211 because it is "softer".  Is this a characteristic with all 230V welders in general, or just a coinicidence with the 211 vs the Passport?  I also read that the 211 comes with a 12ga. ground cable and a cheap clamp; would the arc be improved if these were changed, to perhaps a larger cable and better clamp?  I ask this because on that website weldingtipsandtricks, he mentions taking a battering cable and winding it, then clamping that to the table with the ground clamp to ensure a good ground.
Reply:The Passport is an Inverter based machine where as the MM211 is a Transformer machine so they do have different Arc characteristics.You'll also get different Arc characteristics between the various manufacturers. The work cable is #2 not 12g The Clamp is on the "cheaper" side but will work just fine- easy enough to replace the clamp if you want and not that expensive to upgradeI have not seen the WeldingTips winding but it doesn't create a better ground- it will create Inductance which may smooth out the Arc.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Thanks Broccoli    I was thinking with the Welding Tips website and the copper winding if the same effect would be generated if a copper plate was attached to ones welding table or on the leg somewhere out of the way....I think that would provide a killer ground (if you couldn't get the ground clamp on the piece you were welding).  Just a few little tidbits of ideas I've been rummaging with.  I also noticed on a youtube video by Kevin Caron that he uses a magnet for his ground.  Much smaller and easier to attach, but sometimes, I wonder about the grounding capability being as good as a clamp.
Reply:Originally Posted by BuckFeverThanks Broccoli    I was thinking with the Welding Tips website and the copper winding if the same effect would be generated if a copper plate was attached to ones welding table or on the leg somewhere out of the way....I think that would provide a killer ground (if you couldn't get the ground clamp on the piece you were welding).  Just a few little tidbits of ideas I've been rummaging with.  I also noticed on a youtube video by Kevin Caron that he uses a magnet for his ground.  Much smaller and easier to attach, but sometimes, I wonder about the grounding capability being as good as a clamp.
Reply:With a small bit of effort you can run gas mig outside. My buddy runs gas mig outside all the time and has to have xray quality welds. For what he does FC is not an option because of the job specs. He simply tarps the work and works inside the "tent".No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWWith a small bit of effort you can run gas mig outside. My buddy runs gas mig outside all the time and has to have xray quality welds. For what he does FC is not an option because of the job specs. He simply tarps the work and works inside the "tent"
Reply:Buck Fever,Asking "how much wind will effect mig welding" is like asking "how hot is hot".Too much worrying about "little BS".  Get the welder and try it yourself.Recoup your expenses by charging your FIL, or tell him to buy that little toy welder and do it himself (with multiple passes of course).Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIBuck Fever,Asking "how much wind will effect mig welding" is like asking "how hot is hot".Too much worrying about "little BS".  Get the welder and try it yourself.Recoup your expenses by charging your FIL, or tell him to buy that little toy welder and do it himself (with multiple passes of course).
Reply:The magnet ground works fine for me on the table or on a large piece of metal like a frame rail or bumper. Long as you have some clean metal just clamp in on and get to work. It won't work on paint or rusty metal. It will pop off if you kick it or trip over the cable. On the plus side it keeps from having clamp or vice grip marks in the metal you then have to grind off. It is rated to 150 amps so I know I won't ever get close to failure. Oh yeah, Hi everyone.  Originally Posted by BuckFeverThanks Broccoli    I was thinking with the Welding Tips website and the copper winding if the same effect would be generated if a copper plate was attached to ones welding table or on the leg somewhere out of the way....I think that would provide a killer ground (if you couldn't get the ground clamp on the piece you were welding).  Just a few little tidbits of ideas I've been rummaging with.  I also noticed on a youtube video by Kevin Caron that he uses a magnet for his ground.  Much smaller and easier to attach, but sometimes, I wonder about the grounding capability being as good as a clamp.
Reply:Wow, should I be honored?  A youtube celebrity giving his first post on Welding web to provide a short response of the magnetic ground clamp?    Yeah, I think I am. Hello Mr. Caron.
Reply:0.023 feeds just fine through the larger liner. But the wire moves around as it comes out the tip. You get a weld with out having to move your hand. The bead may be wider than your like.The 0.023 liner will hold the wire and keep it from moving. you can keep a small tight bead.
ReplyMillermatic 211 gun?ast question RE: the welder/gun.  Just an FYI, if I can get the FIL on board, I'll get a 251...if not, it'll be a 211.  So, jus so I'm on the right track when I get this and start practicing.  Prepare yourself for a dumb question    Do you rest the nozzle on the metal you're working on, if you can?  For instance, you have your desired stick out, do you rest the edge of the nozzle on the metal and almost like walk the cup?  I don't think you do, but I just watch a vid on youtube.  Looked like the guy was taking a test on a uphill weld or something and almost looked like he was resting the nozzle on the metal and just letting it slide up.  Either that, or he had it REALLY close and a steady hand.
Reply:I don't know if anyone else has it, but I bought my MM211 about August, and it came with a M-100 gun, not the M10 model everyone has mentioned.    I'm not sure when they changed, but as I said I bought mine from a LWS in August 2010, and it wasn't in stock, they got it shipped in directly from Miller, so it might depend upon your supplier.  The M100 is larger than the M10, which I had on a Hobart H187, but personally don't notice much difference otherwise.    I did have a burnback issue with my H187, but I'm still fairly new and had the wire speed set fairly low.   The Miller with Autoset doesn't seem to have that problem, but does seem to put down a lot more bead.     The one issue with the Gun I had, was that I pulled it out of the connection/wire and gas feed assembly, probably because it has the 10 length hose, and sometimes when just trying to get into a better position you tug a little on the hose.    Of course, then I got all sorts of pock marks, and spatter, etc, and it took about 10 minutes to figure it out, but my advise for everyone with a 10 ft hose is to check the seating of the connector in the welder now and then.
Reply:I had mentioned my MM211 came with a M100 gun, and looking it up found it's the same M10 Gun, just relabeled as M100.    Maybe being a bigger number, we'll think it's better.    Of course all they did was add 0, so maybe they did add nothing?    However, this gun does seem slighter larger than the gun that came with my Hobart 187, so maybe it is an updated model.
Reply:Originally Posted by PMedic4The one issue with the Gun I had, was that I pulled it out of the connection/wire and gas feed assembly, probably because it has the 10 length hose, and sometimes when just trying to get into a better position you tug a little on the hose.    Of course, then I got all sorts of pock marks, and spatter, etc, and it took about 10 minutes to figure it out, but my advise for everyone with a 10 ft hose is to check the seating of the connector in the welder now and then.
Reply:Originally Posted by barton174There is a plastic wingnut right inside the machine, that clamps the cable in, and stops that from happening...Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by PMedic4Yes, but I was gentle with my baby.   I've been known to overtighten a few things now and then...   Where are dem-thar vice-grips?   Lovin' my MM211!
Reply:Back to top for this old thread.  This is mostly about Miller's current guns the M100 and M150 as of 2015 / 2016.I just bought the new 211 machine for 2016 that is the tiny little 34 lber.  It's my second Miller and probably 4th welder in maybe 15 years and my last that saw some serious use is the 1st gen DVI machine of about 2005.  Large case, dual volt, and had the M10 gun.  I put a lot of wire through it and ended up cooking the M10 gun pretty quick and I replaced it with a Tweco / Radnor industrial one that was 15' long and loved it. Occasionally I would go back to the old gun (which should really just go in the trash) because it is so much smaller and gets into tight spots nicely.Anyway, on the new M211 as everyone reports correct, it comes with a 10' M100 gun.  I just wanted 15' and Miller products and welding supplies now are just so much cheaper in general it seems.  My DVI was maybe $1400 and I just bought this new machine with nearly identical specs plus so much more for $900 with the main in rebate.  A new M150 gun with 15' was only $132 on welding web.  There is a $400 mail in rebate for goods if you buy a machine too.  So I bought the M150 gun and a M150 spoolmate.  Basically free stuff.Anyway, basically the M100 and M150 look identical now, same size.  I'm sure there is a liner difference.  I bought a couple extra tips and cups just in case.  This machine is a true hobbyist machine that will live in my garage mostly for house project so I really feel like I might be set for the next 20 years perhaps.  Crazy...
Reply:Originally Posted by BuckFeverWell, next day or 2, I'm gonna take the plunge and purchase a MM211AS...I'm stoked to say the least as this will be my first welder...I have a question about the gun though (M-10 I think it is)  The gun says it's rated to 100 AMPS or so, but the MM211 will go to 210 AMPS.  Can someone tell me exactly what this means?  Will I melt the MM gun if I'm welding at top end of the machine or even over 100 AMPS?  Or does it just shorten the duty cycle.I guess what I am ALSO asking (Also means I would still like an answer to those questions above  ) is, should a purchase a gun rated for more amperage like a Bernard or something?Thanks ahead of time.
Reply:M10 and M100 are not really the same.  Unless I am mistaken.  Some time over the years they switched manufacturers. The new one is the same as the Hobart gun, except for the power pin size.  The guns are straight from China.  The older guns were made by tregakiss, in Canada.  The M150 guns are the same except have more copper in lead.  The new ones are ok, just stiff. I use one every day at work.  Only problem I ever had was a burn/break in the liner.  Actually burned a chunk out of the liner and I had to pull a section of the liner from each end of the gun.  A new, USA made $16 miller liner went right in and feeds better than the gun ever did before.

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