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Spot Welding Machine for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Spot Welding Machine for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Welding Automation for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

laser Welding Machine for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Welding Automation for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Welding Automation for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Platform Spot Welding Machine for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Platform Spot Welding Machine for Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar

Testing the strength of aluminum tig welds on thick flat bar


Tue, 31 Aug 2021 09:45:11 GMT
A quick little video I made testing the weld strength on some 3/8th" flat bar using a 200 amp welder and a 50/50 argon/helium mix.After looking at it closer off video it looks like it broke at the initial fuse points, then cracked through the center of the rest of the weld.Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:Maybe it's just Me,,, but your welds look like they could have used about 50% more filler rod. That is, they are more "concaved" maybe? Flatter? Than I would have made to be happy with myself. I donno, I mean you got good penetration and all but I wonder if the welds would have been stronger (not they necessarily needed to be) with more material in them...
Reply:Originally Posted by BaTuMaybe it's just Me,,, but your welds look like they could have used about 50% more filler rod..
Reply:I commented on your vid. More amps(which I know you don't have, so pre-heat will work) and more filler as well as turn off that pulse(not needed). Try 4943 rod as well. T.J.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by TJSI commented on your vid. More amps(which I know you don't have, so pre-heat will work) and more filler as well as turn off that pulse(not needed). Try 4943 rod as well. T.J.
Reply:I was taught a cool trick by an old timer to light an acetylene torch with just acetylene and carbon up the aluminum so it turns black. Then turn on the oxigen for a neutral flame and evenly heat the aluminum until the carbon disapears. The carbon burns off a 400 degrees so you know the part is at 400 when the carbon clears off it. Then it's ready for tig welding. I do this anytime I do aluminum over 1/4" thick. It seems to really help.My "collection":Homemade Stick WelderVictor O/A TorchAC 225Ideal Arc 250HF 90 Amp Flux CoreHF Mig 170Solar 2020 Plasma CutterPower i-Mig 140EHarris O/A torchHF Dual Mig 131140STAlpha Tig 200x
Reply:I welded these tabs the other day on this intercooler. This intercooler is beefy. The tabs are stacked 1/4" pieces on each other to create a step out for a cooling fan. The base plate of that intercooler is 3/8" thick. Had my Dynasty turned up to 300AMPs. Mashed the pedal and never lifted. I don't like to wait for a puddle. Attached Imageswww.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by Iain PI was taught a cool trick by an old timer to light an acetylene torch with just acetylene and carbon up the aluminum so it turns black. Then turn on the oxigen for a neutral flame and evenly heat the aluminum until the carbon disapears. The carbon burns off a 400 degrees so you know the part is at 400 when the carbon clears off it. Then it's ready for tig welding. I do this anytime I do aluminum over 1/4" thick. It seems to really help.
Reply:OK, HT.  As a Gentleman of Elder status, the tempature is approximately 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  This trick also works for annealing work hardened aluminum when your shaping it.  Just soot the metal, heat with torch until the soot disappears and allow to STILL AIR COOL.  Do not quinch!  It will bring 3003 back to a “dead soft” temperRogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Originally Posted by Rog02OK, HT.  As a Gentleman of Elder status, the tempature is approximately 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  This trick also works for annealing work hardened aluminum when your shaping it.  Just soot the metal, heat with torch until the soot disappears and allow to STILL AIR COOL.  Do not quinch!  It will bring 3003 back to a “dead soft” temper
Reply:Thanks Guys, lots of good info on this one.  I went a little slower, used a larger filler, here is a short video of the intake.  I think its plenty strong for what it is.Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:If I have to pre heat. I fire up the grille and bring it up to 250-300 maybe (I can't remember). Weld then put it back in the grille and slowly cool it down. I have done some cast alum big block chevy valve covers in the past where I welded some fittings on them. I did not do the grille thing for the first one and it cracked. I have been doing the grille thing since for all castings and no cracks yet.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocobraThanks Guys, lots of good info on this one.  I went a little slower, used a larger filler, here is a short video of the intake.  I think its plenty strong for what it is.

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